Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades

[xSoyer]

The new prototypes passed the order has been placed .Were looking at 4 to 8 weeks . I have asked if they can give me me the first thousand pieces early . If I can get some early we will see them sooner

I know what to do..
I'll just freeze myself and then have someone thaw me out in 4-8 weeks when they arrive! It'll be like i never had to wait at all.


But in all seriousness, i am so excited for this.

 

[redeyedancer]

I assume a 1.1 ohm coil from the title of the vid?

I agree there is nothing wrong with the pointy tip, but only up to a certain amount of amperage draw, it's adequate for 3 amps, maybe 4, so there is little issue when were talking 1.2 ohm or 1.8 ohm or any "normal" atty/carto ranges that this was probably originally designed for. actually with only a little amp draw the point is almost an advantage as it could be almost self cleaning, the point may make a better connection if the battery is a little oxidized even because it would dig in, cutting through the oxidation and actually improving the connection, but, not when it comes to trying to flow 6-7 amps or more through it.

at that point it just becomes a point of high resistance and this will cause the connection to instead rapidly deteriorate as it heats up, at that point the pointy tip becomes a bottleneck. it's like wiring a whole circuit with 18ga wire but then making the actual battery connection with a short piece of 28ga. the short 28ga section will heat up trying to flow what the rest of the circuit could otherwise handle comfortably... past a certain point the short section of 28ga would melt and burn causing an open circuit, but since were dealing with a pointed tip of metal instead of a tiny length of 28ga. instead of burning open it just burns the contacts which causes more resistance which burns the contacts more causing more resistance until the point it's so burnt that it really impedes electron flow enough that it hardly works anymore, you then file to a clean surface and start the whole cycle over again. this is the drawback to the pointy tip, it's not going to flow 6-7 or more amps without becoming a bottleneck.

now even larger contact pads rarely can make full even surface to surface contact anyway, lets say your using a 1/4" disc as your contact pad, chances are it will never contact perfectly flat throughout the whole surface area anyway so the actual contact area may only be contacting one edge of the disc and contacting on only half the diameter even, but even this, which might result in an actual contact patch that may look more like a "C" than a full round solid contact is still going to be way better than a contact area of a point that looks like "." the pointed tip is bad when it comes to sub ohm high amperage loads no matter how you look at it, not enough surface contact area even when it's new and perfectly clean

you should compare actual contact area achieved to the surface area of a cross section of different gauge wires to kind of gauge what is and isn't adequate enough to not cause additional resistance. ideally your surface contact area should be more than what the cross section area would be of an adequately sized wire for the circuit. it is only a pressure contact and will have more loss than a solid wire connection, ideally it should probably be a contact area roughly double what an adequate gauge wire would be. if the contact area is smaller than an adequately sized wire would be then it will be a point of resistance and resulting heat, energy lost in creating that heat and also a restriction to electron flow, a bottleneck. this is why a pointed tip can't be adequate for higher amp draws, just not enough surface area to ever possibly flow adequately.

I'm not sure what gauge wiring you use in the woodvilles but just as a point of reference evolve recommends using 20ga for the dna20 which consumes up to ~7 amps or so... for a mech reo I would recommend at least 18 gauge as the reference point, 18 gauge would be ok up until 11=12 amps and better. 18ga has a cross section diameter of just over 1mm I think so ideally the contact area to the battery should be the equivalent surface area of what would equal a 2mm diameter solid contact. of course as said before the contact wil rarely be anything close to 100% so needing 2mm solid contact area would require a maybe 5mm contact pad at least.

materials do play a big part here but not always as much as many would think too. materials differences would go more towards reducing surface oxidation and that's where most of the differences will be found, too many get hung up on the differences of conductivity of the material itself but in most cases this makes very little if any difference beyond just the oxidation problem because your not limited by conductor size in most mechs. for example if you were limited for some reason to the size of the conductor then yes, materials would make all the difference. if you HAD to make a connection with 28 ga wire then of course silver would be better than brass which would be better than aluminum etc but once you can go with a larger conductor the materials make less and less difference, once the conductor is adequately sized to more than flow the current necessary, the materials makes less and less difference beyond just surface oxidation. now I do agree that if you are just using a pointy contact then a materials upgrade would help and def make a difference, but the point is that even more of a difference would be made by just increasing the contact area instead

You have way to much time on your hands

 

[redeyedancer]

When can I expect to recieve these new prototypes? I'm assuming you mailed them out to me before making this post?

Last week you should have tracking

 

[element77]

 

[Mudflap]

Last week you should have tracking

Egg rolls inbound.

 

[turbocad6]

ha, yeah, too much time on my hands, I wish it's just when I start splainin' stuff I sometimes tend to type and type and type sorry bout that

 

[Ropav]

<< Excited. Any pics on the new product??

 

[element77]

The first prototype wasn't powerful enough....

 

[ukeman]

I know what to do..
I'll just freeze myself and then have someone thaw me out in 4-8 weeks when they arrive! It'll be like i never had to wait at all.
But in all seriousness, i am so excited for this.

YOu could just up your nic… … oh but don't forget to lower it when you get the kit.

or you could join the Reo sub ohm "outlaws" ….

 

[xSoyer]

YOu could just up your nic… … oh but don't forget to lower it when you get the kit.

or you could join the Reo sub ohm "outlaws" ….

I run 0.6 on mine now.. it's sort of killed the connector though.. figure a new connector will fix the issues i've had with it (Tried filing/noalox and washing it etc etc.)

 

[ukeman]

yep you are toe'ing the line there at .6 ohms… in my experience you can/will melt the button where it touches the pin, and/or overheat the spring. but thats me; ymmv

I run 0.6 on mine now.. it's sort of killed the connector though.. figure a new connector will fix the issues i've had with it (Tried filing/noalox and washing it etc etc.)

haven't ruined the pin though.

 

[AaronY]

I sub ohm on my other pvs but try stacking. A 1.5 ohm coil on the reomizer and two black aw cr 123 batteries are great with the current config until the upgrade is out.

 

[linkagge]

Rob, any update on this?

 

[Filthy-Beast]

2nd prototype passed, final units on order, delivery in 4 to 8 weeks. He's going to see if they will partial ship a 1000 units early.

 

[linkagge]

Yay I can't wait

 

[rjeatkrconley]

I have been running .5 ohm coils on mine since I got my Reo in September. I have not melted anything as of yet. Using AW IMR 18650 2000 mah and EFEST 18650 2000mah. But I have always put a tab of noalax on the nipple top of the battery every time I change the battery.
I recently made some upgrades and went from .7 voltage drop to .3 voltage drop. The batteries I have have higher internal resistance than the 1600's. I did a voltage drop test with a Sony 30a. 4.2 unloaded 3.94 loaded. .5ohm micro!!

 

[ukeman]

Where I got into trouble was with a dual coil CycloneAFC, came in around .4 ohms… melted the button a bit.. that much was visible…
before that, some .5 or .6 did mess up one spring; collapsed a bit and had to be replaced.

 

[pdib]

I sub ohm on my other pvs but try stacking. A 1.5 ohm coil on the reomizer and two black aw cr 123 batteries are great with the current config until the upgrade is out.

Sorry, but I really think this is bad advice. Stacking batteries as a casual suggestion is not so good. Stacking batteries, without knowledge of proper tracking, maintenance, and metering is asking for trouble. Furthermore, I believe the cr 123 batteries aren't IMR or safe chemistry (not sure). This means that, unlike IMR batteries, if overtaxed, these batteries could explode.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The ones on RTD are LiFePo4 and I use them in my flashlite. I believe they are 7C batteries, you need a charger designed to handle LiFePo4

I've found this, but would still do more research before I ran them with a high amp load.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4, LFE) is kind of Li-Ion rechargeable battery for high power applications, such as EV car , Power Tool and RC hobby. LFP cells feature with high discharging current, non explosive, long cycle life.

The ones on RTD are 500mah, the only C ratings I found are 7C or 10C. so being safe and using 7C that's a max of 3.5 amp continuous load. Stacked they will deliver up to 6.4 volts.

Any coil under 2 ohms with these stacked would be dangerous, based on the math with the 500 Mah battery and 7C rating.

EDIT: Adding that .7 ohm coil with IMR18650 battery will deliver almost the same watts with at least a 40% safety margin on the amp load.

 

[reoluvr]

Yes it did melt that button

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