Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades
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I use mine to finger paint cave drawings on my apartment wall when the wife is away.
That is what I thought thanks for the info . I didn't notice any heat from the contacts with the test I ran
I agree, we should road test the existing button with the new gear before expending energy in that direction.
quite agree - the stock button only suffers when there is arcing and sparking (and anything else that rhymes) to it.
The ones on my desk have been fine for about 4 months!
T
The ones on my desk have been fine for about 4 months!
T
OK guys... My previous statement was a lie. I just checked my mail and had my rebuild stuff from Rob... pulled my stuff apart to fix a couple MacGyvered bits in the 510 positive.
I do have a teeeeeeeeeny tiny bit of melted delrin on my button. I know it was melted ever so slightly just because of the modding, but it was ever so slight that it could, to the untrained eye, appear as normal button wear from 100000000000000001 presses in a day.
Honestly speaking though... The only reason I was running it so low was simply because I could. I can run a .7-1Ω coil now and it hits like it's .3-.5Ω
I do have a teeeeeeeeeny tiny bit of melted delrin on my button. I know it was melted ever so slightly just because of the modding, but it was ever so slight that it could, to the untrained eye, appear as normal button wear from 100000000000000001 presses in a day.
Honestly speaking though... The only reason I was running it so low was simply because I could. I can run a .7-1Ω coil now and it hits like it's .3-.5Ω
firing pin for flat top option?
maybe even derlin insert without the button notch to prevent people from inserting buttons once it's been converted
Well, yep. I was thinking an option to buy longer firing pins with a "blank" tip, for mech freaks to shape as they choose. Probably cheaper to manufacture* (as an alternative option), and easy enough to personalize with a pair of scissors and a pair of pliers (or what you may have).
But . .. . . IDK . . . . It certainly would be nice to see darkzero's work come to fruition while the situation is still undefined.
*my thinking is that the original pins were probably stamped out; and that is common tooling for such parts. The rolled tip (like darkzero's and mine) is a whole different operation. so, I thought blanks (stamped out but longer than standard) would be a good compromise. And anyone who wants to go against convention really oughta be able to roll their own tip. So I figured.
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Tossed this in my fuse block mod
24k metering at ~.5
4.10v batt charge
3.75v under load
Will run this for a few days then report back on the button.
Better shoot me an invoice for a couple buttons Rob.
I'm on a mission to find it's point of failure.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
24k metering at ~.5
4.10v batt charge
3.75v under load
Will run this for a few days then report back on the button.
Better shoot me an invoice for a couple buttons Rob.
I'm on a mission to find it's point of failure.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
What a great idea, Xobox! thanks for volunteering too!
I've been running .4Ω on my one box for a few days now. I'll check the button soon too. The same box and button as my hard short fuse test; so it's a solid reference, and it's already got a few days on it.
I've been running .4Ω on my one box for a few days now. I'll check the button soon too. The same box and button as my hard short fuse test; so it's a solid reference, and it's already got a few days on it.
firing pin for flat top option?
maybe even derlin insert without the button notch to prevent people from inserting buttons once it's been converted
I have my doubts. Rob did his research on the safest batts and seems to be set on taking our safety into consideration above all else
Ow, ow, ok enough arm twisting!
I don't see a reason for Robert to make flat top battery firing pins.... I'll see what better shapes or solutions I can do. I'm tied up for the next few weeks but I'll get to it. I suspect Robert's upgrade kit will be far superior because of the material but I can make plenty of blanks no problem.
The reason I went with tbe jig approach that I did, it may take trial & error to get the correct shape & over all length of the firing pin if the hole was predrilled. Drilling the hole afterwards eliminates that. But that's not a practical method for anyone else since we are using the jigs.
looks like me and the monkey got you running! i gave him my hair!
nice coil kinda
ok ok - it's wasted on me - i can wreck it in a day of vaping, but anything but that bloody-fingered Rene 41 again!
T
nice coil kinda
ok ok - it's wasted on me - i can wreck it in a day of vaping, but anything but that bloody-fingered Rene 41 again!
T
Yeah, I was thinking that, when Rob orders X# of firing pins (flat, stamped out, with hole and tapered tip) stamped out by "B.C. Contacts", he could also order Y# of "type 2" firing pins (flat, stamped out, with hole, but longer and blunt) . . . . . I just meant, some of us might want to end up with the shape you and I were playing with.
but, dizzie, if you're volunteering to make firing pins for all the flattop kids . ..
but, dizzie, if you're volunteering to make firing pins for all the flattop kids . ..
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