Shame it happens in real life also. Sorry just to funny to pass up.It is actually where the screw mates with the female receptor on the aluminum (REO) that could strip if too much force is applied
Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades
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OK I THINK IT'S VERY IMPORTANT FOR EVERYONE THAT DOES MICRO coils, AND SUB OHMS.
I got some time alone tonight. Thank you God. Had an RM2 I needed to recoil. Got frustrated last night trying to make a fancy coil, so tonight I went back to the K.I.S.S. method. Used 28ga and what I thought was going to be around 1.5 - 1.8 ohms. Used a micrometer to measure some bits. Any way back to the important stuff.
Wrapped and got a wick I was fairly happy with. Placed it on the cartometer. (the meter a lot of us use. I got mine from RTD vape).
Read out at 1.5 ohms. PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Placed it on my Provari (cause that's what I use when I fire and squeeze the coil. I trust the protection.) Fired it up and did the squeeze thing. Provari showed 1.3 ohms. Checked it with the cartometer and it reads 1.38 ohms.
Just a bit of difference. .08 ohms.
I did a test, check, opinion of a rechargeable meter from the place I work at. (MODS no name so no foul, I hope). It read 1.7 ohms.
Then I got my Fluke 73 III out and check it with a very reliable industrial DMM. Showed up as 1.1 ohms.
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that is a huge difference.
This means that all my 1.5 - 1.7 ohm coils were really a .2 - .4 ohm off.
Ok this don't really matter too awful much unless your using some sub ohm coils. My .9 ohm were really .7 ohms.
I'm only ranting and posting this to make sure everyone knows that their equipment is accurate and doing what you want it to.
BE SAFE MY FAMILY AND FRIENDS. Your safety matters to a lot of people.
I got some time alone tonight. Thank you God. Had an RM2 I needed to recoil. Got frustrated last night trying to make a fancy coil, so tonight I went back to the K.I.S.S. method. Used 28ga and what I thought was going to be around 1.5 - 1.8 ohms. Used a micrometer to measure some bits. Any way back to the important stuff.
Wrapped and got a wick I was fairly happy with. Placed it on the cartometer. (the meter a lot of us use. I got mine from RTD vape).
Read out at 1.5 ohms. PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Placed it on my Provari (cause that's what I use when I fire and squeeze the coil. I trust the protection.) Fired it up and did the squeeze thing. Provari showed 1.3 ohms. Checked it with the cartometer and it reads 1.38 ohms.
Just a bit of difference. .08 ohms.
I did a test, check, opinion of a rechargeable meter from the place I work at. (MODS no name so no foul, I hope). It read 1.7 ohms.
Then I got my Fluke 73 III out and check it with a very reliable industrial DMM. Showed up as 1.1 ohms.
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that is a huge difference.
This means that all my 1.5 - 1.7 ohm coils were really a .2 - .4 ohm off.
Ok this don't really matter too awful much unless your using some sub ohm coils. My .9 ohm were really .7 ohms.
I'm only ranting and posting this to make sure everyone knows that their equipment is accurate and doing what you want it to.
BE SAFE MY FAMILY AND FRIENDS. Your safety matters to a lot of people.
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OK I THINK IT'S VERY IMPORTANT FOR EVERYONE THAT DOES MICRO COILS, AND SUB OHMS.
I got some time alone tonight. Thank you God. Had an RM2 I needed to recoil. Got frustrated last night trying to make a fancy coil, so tonight I went back to the K.I.S.S. method. Used 28ga and what I thought was going to be around 1.5 - 1.8 ohms. Used a micrometer to measure some bits. Any way back to the important stuff.
Wrapped and got a wick I was fairly happy with. Placed it on the cartometer. (the meter a lot of us use. I got mine from RTD vape).
Read out at 1.5 ohms. PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Placed it on my Provari (cause that's what I use when I fire and squeeze the coil. I trust the protection.) Fired it up and did the squeeze thing. Provari showed 1.3 ohms. Checked it with the cartometer and it reads 1.38 ohms.
Just a bit of difference. .08 ohms.
I did a test, check, opinion of a rechargeable meter from the place I work at. (MODS no name so no foul, I hope). It read 1.7 ohms.
Then I got my Fluke 73 III out and check it with a very reliable industrial DMM. Showed up as 1.1 ohms.
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that is a huge difference.
This means that all my 1.5 - 1.7 ohm coils were really a .2 - .4 ohm off.
Ok this don't really matter too awful much unless your using some sub ohm coils. My .9 ohm were really .7 ohms.
I'm only ranting and posting this to make sure everyone knows that their equipment is accurate and doing what you want it to.
BE SAFE MY FAMILY AND FRIENDS. Your safety matters to a lot of people.
Do you do a lead test on your meters to get a zero reading they all have a different dead read I think the only one I have thats zero off the batt is my fluke and I really don't use it much I'd guess i could use a solid wire test it to see the resistance of it and get a read on the cortometer HMM
I got a .22 difference on my Cartometer from a decent Greenlee meter not too bad and it really doesn't matter so much to me so long as I'm happy with my vape
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Do you do a lead test on your meters to get a zero reading they all have a different dead read I think the only one I have thats zero off the batt is my fluke and I really don't use it much I'd guess i could use a solid wire test it to see the resistance of it and get a read on the cortometer HMM
I got a .22 difference on my Cartometer from a decent Greenlee meter not too bad and it really doesn't matter so much to me so long as I'm happy with my vape
Yes I did a dead test. Positive to negative lead reads out at 0.00 ohms. Yea it's accurate. You just have to hold the leads together while the meter does all it's thing. When I first read the RM2 it kinda bounced between 1.1 and 1.2. Than after I held them on it settled out at 1.1.
The only time I melted my button was when I used a .3 ohm coil. I've had the REO that got melted for over a year using various setups with no signs of wear. So, I feel confident in saying that the .3 killed it. I have a stock pin and stock spring.
Really looking forward to the release of the updated contacts now. I had to temporarily sideline my Reo because I can't stop the arcing and I've started to melt my last button.
I've worn down my positive pin from filing and I've been unsuccessful in sourcing out Noalox locally (Philippines). The closest I've gotten to finding Noalox was from a vape shop that no longer imports the product due to low sales. Without Noalox, it'll work fine for a few hours but it'll start arcing again within the day. I'm thinking the humid climate here may be oxidizing the pin quicker than in other countries?
When the kits come out I'll definitely be getting a new Grand and a kit for my current Grand. This is such an awesome, convenient PV to use and I'm already feeling bad not having one in my pocket.
I've worn down my positive pin from filing and I've been unsuccessful in sourcing out Noalox locally (Philippines). The closest I've gotten to finding Noalox was from a vape shop that no longer imports the product due to low sales. Without Noalox, it'll work fine for a few hours but it'll start arcing again within the day. I'm thinking the humid climate here may be oxidizing the pin quicker than in other countries?
When the kits come out I'll definitely be getting a new Grand and a kit for my current Grand. This is such an awesome, convenient PV to use and I'm already feeling bad not having one in my pocket.
Did you try dielectric grease? you should be able to get that there
Sent while Hyper Vapin a Trippy tipped Reo
Sent while Hyper Vapin a Trippy tipped Reo
thanks Pietro I was searching the brain at 4 am and Dielectric wouldn't pop into the front
So far I haven't found that either. I'll keep my eyes peeled though, but overall I think my best hope would be new contacts. I've worn down the one from the rebuild kit I ordered last month through all the filing.
Well I was planning on just a good cleaning for one of my 2.1's. Turned out having to do a complete rebuild due to my "Bull in a China shop" hands. Just glad I had that spare rebuild kit. Now I got to order a couple more.
After that I'm thinking I better leave the other two alone.. And I had planed for a complete cleaning of all three. Oh well maybe later. At least the cotton wicks all got changed.
After that I'm thinking I better leave the other two alone.
. And I had planed for a complete cleaning of all three. Oh well maybe later. At least the cotton wicks all got changed.
A lot of auto parts stores sell it to put on spark plug wires during a tune up.
yeah, or bulb grease even, hell even a small dab of vasoline would work in a pinch, just won't last as long. the main purpose is to coat the freshly cleaned metal and prevent it from contact with oxygen so it doesn't oxidize as quickly, oxidation is a barrier to good conductivity. that's why silver and gold is used on high end connections, less oxidation build up
Must try a silver one then, have some sterling silver plate lying around from jewellery hobby of some 30 years ago!
Anyone every tried "Deoxit"? I've used at work for years for gold edge contacts on PC's. I'm not sure if its available worldwide but I did a quick Google search and found a cell phone kit for $4.95.
There are variations of it that specify non flammable but I've never had a problem with it once it dries. Just a thin coat and it lasts. I don't know how well it would reduce sparking but I personally haven't experienced that problem on my Grand's.
There are variations of it that specify non flammable but I've never had a problem with it once it dries. Just a thin coat and it lasts. I don't know how well it would reduce sparking but I personally haven't experienced that problem on my Grand's.
deoxit is good for chemically removing oxidation. you never want to sand or scratch up a good smooth contact...
I know it's always been recommended to scratch the firing pin with a file to clean it but technically that's the worse way to clean a contact because this actually reduces the contact surface area. most good contacts will be smooth and polished for max contact area and scratching them reduces the contact area a lot and also the scratches really promotes oxidation, polished is always better than roughed up. the new contacts may be large enough that scratching/filing would no longer be the way to clean them and you will be cleaning and polishing the contacts instead.
a pencil eraser is a great way to clean and polish a smooth contact. works very well with cell phones and any smooth contact including mods... again the noalox and all the other stuff is just to preserve the clean un oxidised surface and by itself does nothing to actually improve contact beyond just that, and is itself not a conductor so if you don't have noalox it can be substituted with many other things but you don't want to use something that will promote oxidation too, most light oils or greases would do the job here if you don't have the specific products for this although the specific products are designed for the most longevity and oxidation prevention they are not the only way to go if you don't have any.
I know it's always been recommended to scratch the firing pin with a file to clean it but technically that's the worse way to clean a contact because this actually reduces the contact surface area. most good contacts will be smooth and polished for max contact area and scratching them reduces the contact area a lot and also the scratches really promotes oxidation, polished is always better than roughed up. the new contacts may be large enough that scratching/filing would no longer be the way to clean them and you will be cleaning and polishing the contacts instead.
a pencil eraser is a great way to clean and polish a smooth contact. works very well with cell phones and any smooth contact including mods... again the noalox and all the other stuff is just to preserve the clean un oxidised surface and by itself does nothing to actually improve contact beyond just that, and is itself not a conductor so if you don't have noalox it can be substituted with many other things but you don't want to use something that will promote oxidation too, most light oils or greases would do the job here if you don't have the specific products for this although the specific products are designed for the most longevity and oxidation prevention they are not the only way to go if you don't have any.
Any auto parts store should have dielectric grease.
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