Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades

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SeaNap

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Great news that they passed, I can't wait to get my hands on this kit

I'm curious Rob, what were the criteria for passing the test? I know the previous batch did not pass, and was wondering what tests you run and if you have any test data or voltage drop figures.

ps I completely agree with Turbo's novel ;)
 
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redeyedancer

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Great news that they passed, I can't wait to get my hands on this kit

I'm curious Rob, what were the criteria for passing the test? I know the previous batch did not pass, and was wondering what tests you run and if you have any test data or voltage drop figures.

ps I completely agree with Turbo's novel ;)
The first set failing had nothing to do with voltage drop . I let the contact company design a contact for me thinking they would no best That was a mistake . I have posted videos on this thread with a grand setup with beryllium copper contacts . I never even read all of Turbos book lol . This is not rocket science I am very aware of why the mod fails at sub ohm . The original grand had a flat contact the results were poor . I went to the pointed contact and the problems were solved . I found teaching a customer to clean the very point of a contact was much easier . Not to mention at the time the pointed contact did its job with no issues . Keep in mind when I made the original mini the first metal mod I built we were running standard atomizers LR atomizer had just hit the scene .
The new contacts will have more surface area and they will be gold plated .
The videos below show the type of performance to expect .


.39 ohm beryllium copper contacts
 

Cyrus Vap

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Great stuff Rob, I can't wait

I'm under the impression, perhaps wrong (electrical wizards please chime in) that a .5 ohm dual coil will stress a given battery more than a .5 ohm single would, leading to larger voltage drop? If this is true, any plans on showing how things perform with some .5 ohm duals ? :)

You rock Rob! Now to figure out how I'm going to explain my new "box" to the wife...
 

pdib

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The ones on RTD are LiFePo4 and I use them in my flashlite. I believe they are 7C batteries, you need a charger designed to handle LiFePo4

I've found this, but would still do more research before I ran them with a high amp load.

The ones on RTD are 500mah, the only C ratings I found are 7C or 10C. so being safe and using 7C that's a max of 3.5 amp continuous load. Stacked they will deliver up to 6.4 volts.

Any coil under 2 ohms with these stacked would be dangerous, based on the math with the 500 Mah battery and 7C rating.

EDIT: Adding that .7 ohm coil with IMR18650 battery will deliver almost the same watts with at least a 40% safety margin on the amp load.

aha! thanks, F-B :)
 

supertrunker

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Amps (I) = V (voltage) / R (resistance). So new fresh battery: I=4.2/.5 = 8.4Amps. <~~~this number is important because you need a battery that can comfortably swallow this demand. This is rated by constant discharge on battery specification charts, or as a 'C' rating. A 'C' rating is a multiplier of the battery's capacity such that a battery with 2000mAh (2A in other words) and a 5C rating can tolerate a load of 10A, which is barely adequate for your use above.
I like to use no more than 70-80% of the battery's rating just to be safe. I still have an ugly face.

By a happy coincidence Power in Watts = I x V , so you have 35W total in your coil. If you have 2 coils of 1Ω then you will again have a total resistance of 0.5, but the power will be equally divided between them, since it's just as likely electricity will choose one or the other to flow thru since they have the same resistance. Each coil will therefore only see half the power, which is why they are usually used in variable voltage devices where you can ramp up the power to meet your likes.

Here's a handy chart to make this look pretty!
 

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Cyrus Vap

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Thanks for the replies buddies.

I am aware of the numbers and how they work out (thanks for that chart though I love it), and from that point of view the idea that duals are inherently more stressful controlling for all else never made any sense to me.

And yet somehow I absorbed that idea, probably way back in the day of dirty sock cartomizers ;)
 

ukeman

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well i put it in here… duals stress the stock Reo.

thats because i assumed most dual coil users are going below .5 ohms.

when i melted my button a bit (enough to take a mm off one corner of the button) i was around .38 ohms.

(i rarely make a micro coil over .7 ohms) edit; unless its for duals
 
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pmoraldo

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I assume a 1.1 ohm coil from the title of the vid?

I agree there is nothing wrong with the pointy tip, but only up to a certain amount of amperage draw, it's adequate for 3 amps, maybe 4, so there is little issue when were talking 1.2 ohm or 1.8 ohm or any "normal" atty/carto ranges that this was probably originally designed for. actually with only a little amp draw the point is almost an advantage as it could be almost self cleaning, the point may make a better connection if the battery is a little oxidized even because it would dig in, cutting through the oxidation and actually improving the connection, but, not when it comes to trying to flow 6-7 amps or more through it.

at that point it just becomes a point of high resistance and this will cause the connection to instead rapidly deteriorate as it heats up, at that point the pointy tip becomes a bottleneck. it's like wiring a whole circuit with 18ga wire but then making the actual battery connection with a short piece of 28ga. the short 28ga section will heat up trying to flow what the rest of the circuit could otherwise handle comfortably... past a certain point the short section of 28ga would melt and burn causing an open circuit, but since were dealing with a pointed tip of metal instead of a tiny length of 28ga. instead of burning open it just burns the contacts which causes more resistance which burns the contacts more causing more resistance until the point it's so burnt that it really impedes electron flow enough that it hardly works anymore, you then file to a clean surface and start the whole cycle over again. this is the drawback to the pointy tip, it's not going to flow 6-7 or more amps without becoming a bottleneck.

now even larger contact pads rarely can make full even surface to surface contact anyway, lets say your using a 1/4" disc as your contact pad, chances are it will never contact perfectly flat throughout the whole surface area anyway so the actual contact area may only be contacting one edge of the disc and contacting on only half the diameter even, but even this, which might result in an actual contact patch that may look more like a "C" than a full round solid contact is still going to be way better than a contact area of a point that looks like "." the pointed tip is bad when it comes to sub ohm high amperage loads no matter how you look at it, not enough surface contact area even when it's new and perfectly clean

you should compare actual contact area achieved to the surface area of a cross section of different gauge wires to kind of gauge what is and isn't adequate enough to not cause additional resistance. ideally your surface contact area should be more than what the cross section area would be of an adequately sized wire for the circuit. it is only a pressure contact and will have more loss than a solid wire connection, ideally it should probably be a contact area roughly double what an adequate gauge wire would be. if the contact area is smaller than an adequately sized wire would be then it will be a point of resistance and resulting heat, energy lost in creating that heat and also a restriction to electron flow, a bottleneck. this is why a pointed tip can't be adequate for higher amp draws, just not enough surface area to ever possibly flow adequately.

I'm not sure what gauge wiring you use in the woodvilles but just as a point of reference evolve recommends using 20ga for the dna20 which consumes up to ~7 amps or so... for a mech reo I would recommend at least 18 gauge as the reference point, 18 gauge would be ok up until 11=12 amps and better. 18ga has a cross section diameter of just over 1mm I think so ideally the contact area to the battery should be the equivalent surface area of what would equal a 2mm diameter solid contact. of course as said before the contact wil rarely be anything close to 100% so needing 2mm solid contact area would require a maybe 5mm contact pad at least.

materials do play a big part here but not always as much as many would think too. materials differences would go more towards reducing surface oxidation and that's where most of the differences will be found, too many get hung up on the differences of conductivity of the material itself but in most cases this makes very little if any difference beyond just the oxidation problem because your not limited by conductor size in most mechs. for example if you were limited for some reason to the size of the conductor then yes, materials would make all the difference. if you HAD to make a connection with 28 ga wire then of course silver would be better than brass which would be better than aluminum etc but once you can go with a larger conductor the materials make less and less difference, once the conductor is adequately sized to more than flow the current necessary, the materials makes less and less difference beyond just surface oxidation. now I do agree that if you are just using a pointy contact then a materials upgrade would help and def make a difference, but the point is that even more of a difference would be made by just increasing the contact area instead

WOW enough said! :p

Sent while Hyper Vapin a Trippy tipped Reo
 

Xobeloot

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Giggle... I melted a button so badly the other day that the plastic fused to the internal delrin block.

I took a few nice toots and on the last one (when it fused), the button stuck down. Quick reaction to pull the door and battery.

Let this little story be a wake-up call. I'm not going to change my preferred vape, and I understand the mod, the risks, etc...

Please be sure to inspect your internals regularly. If there is "runoff" from a slightly melted button, shave it off to prevent it re-melting/fusing to the internal delrin. Keep extra buttons on-hand, and do regular maintenance.

I fear this happening to somebody who is not familiar with the reo internals.

I'd post pics, but it is in my vape box in the storage unit.

That is all for now.

vyzuhasa.jpg



Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
 

supertrunker

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The main use of beryllium copper is in tools for use in places like oilrigs and petrochemical facilities where a spark could cause ignition of something. I think noalox will not be necessary. It will not spark or oxidise like the firing pin now does.

The main component of voltage drop is the spring and more specifically, the material it is made from. Rob has said the upgraded spring is a vast improvement, which in practical terms means longer battery life and less maintenance and the ability to handle sub-Ohm coils, depending on where your priorities lie.


T
 
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