Mechs vs Provai
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and no fuse that IM aware of will allow that much amp draw. Ones IVe seen will short at 5 or 8 watts IIRC. Defeats the whole purpose.
A Kick 2 by Evolv will fire atomizer resistances 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms.
The single-use 2-Cents for Safety mod fuse will trip at 7 amps.
The PTC fuse used in the vape Safe 2 is rated for a hold current of 3.5 A, which means that it can carry a continuous current of 3.5 A safely without tripping. Its trip current is rated at 6A, which means that it is guaranteed to trip if 6 A or more is passed through it. If a current between 3.5 and 6 amps is passed through the VapeSafe2, it will trip after an indeterminate amount of time (typically 5-10 seconds or more).
The single-use 2-Cents for Safety mod fuse will trip at 7 amps.
The PTC fuse used in the vape Safe 2 is rated for a hold current of 3.5 A, which means that it can carry a continuous current of 3.5 A safely without tripping. Its trip current is rated at 6A, which means that it is guaranteed to trip if 6 A or more is passed through it. If a current between 3.5 and 6 amps is passed through the VapeSafe2, it will trip after an indeterminate amount of time (typically 5-10 seconds or more).
Again, I am old school here, so I don't advise you practice what I do as something I as I do! But knowing what I do of batteries, living through the early times of vaping and lots of unregulated mods, I have a different opinion than many. DO SO AT YOU'RE OWN DISCRETION!
I do not use the fuse or a Kick, I don't feel the need. Knowing what 'Tude has been through with his BB, I certainly respect his opinion on this! I never had the problem he did, but I have since moved towards mods with lock out switches to prevent such failures! My BB collects a lot of dust anymore!
It's a catch 22 for us anymore really! Many of us have been there and done that, now we have this new wave of people that want to push it to the limit right of the bat with no understanding of how or why!
Look at the builds I've listed, nothing is pushing the limits on anything, even with a 14500 battery! I see no point in "cloud chasing" or sub ohm building. I know the batteries I am using, I know I am within safe operating parameters and have no desire to push them much farther!
The "Kick" and "vape safe fuse" offer another layer of safety that I cannot deny isn't a good measure to take! If you don't know, don't do it! If you kinda know but aren't sure, don't do it! If you do know, but it still scares you, don't do it! If you know, everything checks out and you know how to check it out, use a protection method!
I can't stress this enough, these batteries are not to be toyed with, they can and will HURT you, badly! Even coming from the flashlight community, it took me YEARS to get the courage to even buy them and a charger because of the stories I heard about them blowing up!
Yes, they are a lot safer now, but accidents do happen, treat them with respect!
I do not use the fuse or a Kick, I don't feel the need. Knowing what 'Tude has been through with his BB, I certainly respect his opinion on this! I never had the problem he did, but I have since moved towards mods with lock out switches to prevent such failures! My BB collects a lot of dust anymore!
It's a catch 22 for us anymore really! Many of us have been there and done that, now we have this new wave of people that want to push it to the limit right of the bat with no understanding of how or why!
Look at the builds I've listed, nothing is pushing the limits on anything, even with a 14500 battery! I see no point in "cloud chasing" or sub ohm building. I know the batteries I am using, I know I am within safe operating parameters and have no desire to push them much farther!
The "Kick" and "vape safe fuse" offer another layer of safety that I cannot deny isn't a good measure to take! If you don't know, don't do it! If you kinda know but aren't sure, don't do it! If you do know, but it still scares you, don't do it! If you know, everything checks out and you know how to check it out, use a protection method!
I can't stress this enough, these batteries are not to be toyed with, they can and will HURT you, badly! Even coming from the flashlight community, it took me YEARS to get the courage to even buy them and a charger because of the stories I heard about them blowing up!
Yes, they are a lot safer now, but accidents do happen, treat them with respect!
no, not really, lol the kick is for people who DONT want to run low resistance setups in a mechanical to get a good vape. trying to subohm with a kick is kinda defeating the purpose of what it is (mainly) designed for.
If you're using a .3ohm coil you're pushing 14amps. So those fuses are pretty much usless. They'd trip as soon as you tried to fire the atty. The Sony 30amp battery's design is perfect for sub ohm use on mechs. As is the 20amp Sanyo or the 10amp (NCR) Panasonic. As long as you know and understand your battery's parameters, a mech can be used safely.
I'd like to also point out that the use of a mech is not exclusive to cloud chasers. There are many of us who have found out that
there is more flavor in sub ohms, especially when using an RDA. There's no way you can compare the flavor of a juice coming off a 1.5ohm coil to the flavor of the same juice coming off a .5ohm coil. If you've never experienced sub ohm vaping I would highly recommend trying it at least once.
Having said that, if you like your Provari then that's great! I really believe that you should use whatever you like to keep you off of cigs. That's what really matters.
Just wanted to mention that such a spring would have to collapse at temperatures lower than those that set off thermal runaway in a battery.
If you are using a 10 amp Panasonic to run a 0.3 ohm coil, then explain to me that you know and understand your battery's parameters by trying to draw 14 amps from it?
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I guess short bursts from vaping allow the battery to operate under the wire in temps. I can't even imagine vaping at 14 watts, much less that many amps. I feel slight warmth in my Provari and my Zmax tubes when I vape at 6 and 7 watts, although the battery is only slightly warm when I remove it to check. I'd think the heat came from the atomizer end if it wasn't the battery end that heats up.
SS is a good heat sink.
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Any DNA20-based mod will do, and if you choose a box shaped one length isn't much of a problem either.
I have been vaping a long time. Well before the e-go came around and I was building my own VV mods before they were for sale. I was building my own coils from the start. I have gone from one extreme to another and back again, for the last 3 years or so I have settled on a mechanical mod with an 18650 with a basic LR atty at 1.8ohm as my favorite for flavor and run time. The key is fresh coils and GREAT Batteries. Try and vape with a @#$#fire battery in a Mechanical mod and you will be changing that battery every hour if you want a consistent vape. Use a good battery like a Panasonic 3400 and you have hours of vaping without having to change. I don't clean my coils or do any maintanence on them at all. When they no longer produce the vapor I want I put in a new one. If you don't want to wrap your own coils you can buy prewrapped coils for next to nothing. 50 of them goes for under $7 right now. Another factor is that I DIY and have used the same recipe for the last three years. If I was trying new juice all the time I would probably be back using a VV device. Instead I customized my juice to give me the hit I wanted and it's stuck. One battery generally gets me through a day of vaping. In the morning I don't want a heavy vape so I don't change my battery to a fresh one until about noon.
So really I think it comes down to a lot of factors but you don't have to do sub-ohm to enjoy a mechanical mod and you don't have to go VV either. However, if you like to try a bunch of different juices then VV is probably going to be a better choice for you.
So really I think it comes down to a lot of factors but you don't have to do sub-ohm to enjoy a mechanical mod and you don't have to go VV either. However, if you like to try a bunch of different juices then VV is probably going to be a better choice for you.
You can draw up to 18 amps in burst on the NCR Panasonic battery. Bishop Heals has done a great video about this battery, and is the reason I started using mechs and learning about a batterys parameters. Maybe you should learn about them before replying with a backhanded question. Smh
Here's the YouTube vid: http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=plpp&p=PLul9wWEac7ixAuqYV7O8nLaruUxineM40&v=XjoU7YpCMzg
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You wouldn't give a corvette to a new driver. Thats asking for trouble, no new vaper should do mechs and subohm. Unless they dig in and get
Their knowledge and experience up by using other safer options.
The draw for me to mechs is the durability and ruggedness. I really want a solid steel 510 integrated into the top cap much like the 510 magneto. Not pressed in either it needs to be threaded. Hint light socket! Something so it won't fall apart with a heavy rba. That 510 will not pull out or strip with a heavy rba like an oddy. But I still think I want a vv/vw like a zmax tele. I can't wait for a reasonable priced rugged vv with that heavy duty 510. For serious rbas
If you build the right coil you can get some serious safe performance. I'm vaping a 3 ohm vertical micro coil in my oddy clone at 4.5v and its really really good. Excellent vapor and flavor and the nic hit is very strong. I see no reason to go sub ohm at all. Cloud chasers would be very impressed what this 3 ohm coil can do in a vv apv.
Their knowledge and experience up by using other safer options.
The draw for me to mechs is the durability and ruggedness. I really want a solid steel 510 integrated into the top cap much like the 510 magneto. Not pressed in either it needs to be threaded. Hint light socket! Something so it won't fall apart with a heavy rba. That 510 will not pull out or strip with a heavy rba like an oddy. But I still think I want a vv/vw like a zmax tele. I can't wait for a reasonable priced rugged vv with that heavy duty 510. For serious rbas
If you build the right coil you can get some serious safe performance. I'm vaping a 3 ohm vertical micro coil in my oddy clone at 4.5v and its really really good. Excellent vapor and flavor and the nic hit is very strong. I see no reason to go sub ohm at all. Cloud chasers would be very impressed what this 3 ohm coil can do in a vv apv.
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Air flow is everything for great performance. So then again if they can do it with airflow control that really opens wide, even better. I've got my current apv modded up with large channels and its a big difference.
Actually SS is a poor heat sink. SS retains heat. A heat sink dissipates heat.
Aluminum is better. Polished SS is not good at all, but weathered or brushed SS is better than anodized aluminum. SS absorbs and disperses heat slowly. Thinner is faster. The heavy tubes we use do act as heat sinks, but they don't radiate it to the air nearly as well as aluminum. Still, I'll pick SS every time for a mod.
Emissivity Coefficients of some common Materials
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Um, if I ran a corvette dealership i certainly would give a corvette to a new driver. Pretty much any dealership would, it would be stupid not to.
Mechs are not the "corvettes" of vaping. Mechs are if anything FAR more simple to use than a ProVari or a DNA20 or even an itazte MVP. It is a tube, with a battery, and a button.
.3 ohms on a 10amp continuous draw battery is not even close to an issue unless you draw from it continuously.
People need to stop the hyperbole surrounding batteries/mechs. The filament and open contacts on a RDA are far more likely to hurt you than the stupid battery.
Most of the people here who talk about "advanced vapers" and constantly refer to ohms law have zero idea what it is beyond a very basic equation that gives them a number when they plug in another number, and they wouldn't even know that if they weren't vaping. They couldn't engineer their way out of a wet paper bag and you should take everything they say with a bucket of salt.
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