Merged old sticky threads (2)

[Switched]

lower ohms means more vapor right? and was the 2.2 on the warrantied atomizers? Does that also mean they run cooler the lower the ohms?

That is what most folks associate an LR to, and unfortunately IMHO they are mistaken and missing on some important stuff. Lower resistance is only one piece of the puzzle, there is a lot more at play here than just 2.2 Ohms, where the eGo is concerned.

 

[son et lumiere]

Good to know. I just ordered two atomizers and was wondering if they were going to produce a little more vapor than a standard joye atomizer. Thanks.

 

[deewal]

My Ego Set has a little booklet with it that say's The Atomiser is a DURA but they don't look like DURA's and they don't have Janty written on them or even TAWA. I can't see any numbers or letters on them anywhere if that helps ? I think they are JOYE510's.
I am completely happy with them.

 

[bestthingever]

I'm loving my eGo, but I don't think I get more vapor from the atty that came with it than I do from the standard Joye 510 attys.

 

[Switched]

I'm loving my eGo, but I don't think I get more vapor from the atty that came with it than I do from the standard Joye 510 attys.

True and that's because we find the odd atty from JoyE metering out at 2.2-2.3 Ohms, there is a slight difference but nothing to write home about, when compared from a stock atty to an LR with a resistance of 1.5 Ohms, then there's a noticeable difference, especially the ifrst time you use one. It can gag a horse.

 

[bestthingever]

Switched, isn't there a reliability issue with the LR attys ? I've been wanting to try one.

 

[Switched]

Switched, isn't there a reliability issue with the LR attys ? I've been wanting to try one.

Well reliability needs to be defined now doesn't it?

I am still on my original 2 LR attys from Nhaler. Mind you that being said I have only lost 2 x 510s since I started vaping as well, and I vape 3-5ml per day. One 510 fried because of a stuck switch, the other, well it served me well. I also lost 2 x 801s in 2 days using HV liquids at a regulated 5V which were 100% VG (I believe). I can blame it on the liquid because since no longer using that particular liquid, I have not had an atty fail.

I am not a dripper perse. I believe that high VG liquids are atty killers, as well as high sugared liquids. I also believe that VG does not provided the "wetness" required of an atty, which can lead to atty failure. Some folks believe this to be nonsense, they are welcome to their opinion. I don't have magical attys so I must be doing something right.

Some folks believe attys to be a disposable item, so do I. How long should they last? IMHO weeks, months but not days, including LRs. Treat your atty with a little respect and it will provide you with extended service. I keep my PG/VG concentration to 20% or lower. TH and vapour have never been an issue with me.

I vaping session to me is like smoking a cig. I take 2-3 hits at a time, 2-3 minutes apart for 4-5 sessions. I repeat this when I get another urge, just like smoking a cig. Maybe the combination of what I do provides extended atty life.

In closing, I must be doing something right because one of my LRs is fitted with a slightly modified cart, and vapes like a champ. I would not recommend this to all, but the combination of my liquid viscosity and my vaping habits provide me with a troublefree vaping experience.

 

[prr2freya]

I am having the button problem the past week. Exactly same as: "Sometimes I hit it, and nothing happens. Other times it comes on, but cuts off before I let off the button. Now I walk around cross-eyed staring at the damn thing the entire time I'm hitting it. So frustrating"

And I have not had it very long. Piece of cheap crap. Not even going to bother for a replacement and just cut my losses. There are better more reliable mods out there for much cheaper.

 

[Ludo]

This a good post!

tx Switched!

 

[Switched]

Thanks Ludo. Coming from you means a lot to me.

 

[darkmenace]

Hi,

Does anyone else have a problem with JS V3 randomly cutting out and requiring 2/3 pushes of switch to reactivate. I'm on my second one in three weeks and getting exact same prob again. Sometimes it flashes white twice b4 dying. Is this a bad batch?

I am having the button problem the past week. Exactly same as: "Sometimes I hit it, and nothing happens. Other times it comes on, but cuts off before I let off the button. Now I walk around cross-eyed staring at the damn thing the entire time I'm hitting it. So frustrating"

And I have not had it very long. Piece of cheap crap. Not even going to bother for a replacement and just cut my losses. There are better more reliable mods out there for much cheaper.

I have had similar problems (and had my unit replaced by Toby) and the second one developed electrical problems again.

The problem as I see it is that the atomiser slot is not sealed at the bottom and juice from the atomiser seeps through into the electrical gubbins underneath. This problem is going to be a lot worse with dripping as recommended by Mik elsewhere.

The solution I have found is to remove the battery, and blow hard through the USB port for a few minutes. You'll get juice oozing through the casing, the LED strip & from behind the switch.

Then...wrap the unit in tissue paper and blow hard through both barrels (battery slot and atty slot) simultaneously for a few minutes.

Then do it through the USB port again.

Leave it for ten minutes.

Repeat until no more oozing occurs.


On an entirely different note...

Asking Impex to refer all his support queries to ivapour is a bit off. AFAIK Toby isn't an engineer, wasn't involved in the design or manufacturing process & with all respect to his (frankly awesome) customer care, can't answer the kind of technical questions or give the technical advice that you guys (as the designers etc) can.

Of the 11 separate shops on the jantyworld main site, only THREE are part of the jantyworld domain, do you abscond all responsibilty for technical questions from buyers who bought from these other eight suppliers, or maybe there's a special hidden forum, where we can refer all manufacturing, build and technical questions to Mik as Head Designer and Ludo as Boss?

Am I missing something?

 

[prr2freya]

WOW! I did what you said and no juice oozed out anywhere, but the button is working perfect again! You are a life saver! This is the only unit I have at the moment and my first mod. Thank you thank you thank you! I guess it only takes a tiny leak in there to mess things up. I keep it as clean as possible and use a q-tip to get any juice I see at the connector in there. I was under the impression that the v3 stick was sealed to avoid such things and assumed the button itself was crap.

Amazing.. I think as a precaution I will blow the whole thing out every night when I blow out my atties for the night. I cannot convey how greatful I am

I have had similar problems (and had my unit replaced by Toby) and the second one developed electrical problems again.

The problem as I see it is that the atomiser slot is not sealed at the bottom and juice from the atomiser seeps through into the electrical gubbins underneath. This problem is going to be a lot worse with dripping as recommended by Mik elsewhere.

The solution I have found is to remove the battery, and blow hard through the USB port for a few minutes. You'll get juice oozing through the casing, the LED strip & from behind the switch.

Then...wrap the unit in tissue paper and blow hard through both barrels (battery slot and atty slot) simultaneously for a few minutes.

Then do it through the USB port again.

Leave it for ten minutes.

Repeat until no more oozing occurs.

edit: I also think to help avoid leakage I will stop using the stock atty and just keep to the 510 adapter since it is impossible to leak into the unit that way.. I have already had to do the staple mod to even get the stock atties to work.

 

[darkmenace]

Glad to have been of some use prr2freya.
BTW Had a look around your sites, in a totally non-stalkerish way. Really like your music vids esp the choreography for your mannequins. What software are you using?

 

[Digs]

I recently picked up a multimeter and checked the voltage on my eGo batteries. I've been under the impression that they are 3.1V but my meter read 3.6V on one battery and 3.7V on another. Neither of the batteries were fully charged. The meter is brand new and made by ExTech. Is it possible my meter is off or is the eGo really 3.6-3.7V?

 

[AlexTM]

You need to check unter load, not just the plain battery.

 

[Digs]

You need to check unter load, not just the plain battery.

I see. Thanks.

 

[Richie G]

Digs, you don't *need* to check your eGo batteries under load. Scottbee's findings are interesting and telling but doesn't answer the direct question you're asking.

My eGo batteries come off the charger at about 4.0 volts. That's the applied voltage. There's no reason for an e-cig USER to measure the voltage under load unless it's for personal knowledge and experimentation. If your batteries charge up to somewhere around 4 volts, you're good to go.

Just as an example --

If I asked you what voltage your car battery is, would you have the wife get in the car and turn the key to engage the starter motor while you are under the hood with your multimeter shoving the probes across the terminals? While that starter motor is drawing some 80 amps or so and that 12 volt battery drops down to 8-ish volts, would you deduce that it is an 8 volt battery? Of course not.

You asked a simple question and deserve a simple answer, w/o the complication of the ckt being under load. The eGo battery is 3.7 volts and usually charge to about 4.0 volts. The battery will no longer fire the atomizer when the battery's voltage drops down to about 3.4 volts and will require a re-charge.

Given that the batteries you checked are not fully charged and you measured them at 3.6-ish volts or so, it sounds like your meter is working correctly. Give them a full charge and I bet they come up close to 4 volts. Good luck with your eGo. =)

 

[AlexTM]

The difference is the voltage delivered to the atty, and that makes a great difference. If the atty gets only 3.1v, it will obviously produce a cooler vape; if it gets the full 3.7, vape will be hotter. And since Joye 510 atties are made to run on those 3.1, there's a lot of people who think they get far too sharp on full 3.7.

Try it yourself: Vape a Joye 510 on a mod, or a clone battery, or a KR8 or 901 or 801 battery with an adapter: The difference is quite noticeable. Works the other way around, too: Vape a clone 510 on a Joye battery, and that thing is going to give you less and cooler vape than on its own battery. Same for other atties with adapters.

There is something "more" on eGo batteries, even without the cone the vape is warmer and has more taste than on standard 510s, but I am absolutely sure it's not because the eGo battery delivers 3.7 when running – because 3.7 give me a lousy taste.

 

[Richie G]

All good points, Alex.

But, when we start to allude to the electronic ckts and the pcb within the eGo battery, when we mention low drain batteries, LIMNS, IMRs, etc, etc, etc -- we're going too far in answering the simple question that was asked.

The OP asked an intelligent question as he didn't know if his new meter was mis-calibrated or defective, nor was he sure what voltage the eGo battery actually is.

Measuring the voltage *under load* is not something the average user can or needs to do. Interesting as all hell, don't get me wrong. <g> But, I'd rather see the OP measure his batteries the conventional way and confirm that his new meter, charger and batteries are all working correctly.

(Next week when he's comfortable with the multimeter, we'll have him start atty re-building) =)

 

[Johner]

Very interesting thread. Personally I believe I have had better performance from just regular Joye atomizers than the stock one that came with my eGo. Could be a lot of factors at play here though.