Lol did the metal top cap actually break or was it the glass. I guess we cant expect perfection from china. I have no doubt that if these were made and machined in the USA, they would be a lot better. China has been known to use a lot of junk metal with different grades of steel melted into one. This causes weak spots in the metal. Depending on how the block is cut, it may or may not be an issue.
It can happen when the metal is thinner in spots, idk about the merlin tank parts, but Chinese metal in general can/used to be iffy.
So just take the copper screw and insulator out and tap in there? Or do you mean from the top of the deck?
The way I do it is take the 510 screw out and use either a bench vise or you could use a socket that will fit the base and lightly tap inside the 510 hole carefully. I used masking tape to protect the base. You just want to move it a tiny bit to see if it loosens it.
Okay, that makes sense. I was thinking WOW that would take a lot of power to heat that up. Plug it into a 220V outlet.
I am the same I generally wait until the juice taste like crap, and the coil is so gunked up that it hardly produces vape to rebuild. I think the titanium or any other TC wire seems to last longer. At least it seemed that way on the last one I had in there.
Can you dry burn the titanium (I would guess no, but I could be wrong)? When I was making some kanthal coils to use later, I was wrapping them and then I had a cigarette lighter that I would use to get the wire glowing while it was compressed. When I did this, the lighter left a bunch of the black carbon buildup all over the coil. I got out my big propane torch and bottle and held the coil in that thing till it was really bright, That coil was spotless.
