Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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local school colors.
getting there.
contact and lift off
now for assembly.
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You didn't follow the directions....
Did this work? Or did you end moving the wire?
What I.wound up.doing is kinda pre-assembling the 510 so I didn't have to swear at it later. Then the chip and clamps. Mine didn't all fully seat due to the thicker wire and, the leads from my battery tray might have been a little long. The positive bridge still worked even though it had little give. I wound up, pitching stuff into place, taking a small "spudger" and wiggling the wire past the 510 slug.
I'd show you pics but, then I'd have to take the back off and, I like it secure as it is..... lol. Another reason everything is as tight as it is would be because the wire I used, has got to be thicker than 20ga. I had to take roughly half of the strands off at the connection point to get it to fit the board.
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Like have said before, the instructions are just how I do it and I'm sure there are other ways that work.
Just a couple of notes.
- I run the positive wire along the top and then down, so it doesn't interfere.
- I don't actually solder the wire in the holes. I fill the holes with solder and then solder the wire to the outside of the hole. 20g is a pita to get in the holes, especially if you try to tin either the wire or the solder pad/hole.
Plus soldering the wires like this means the wire doesn't need to make a sharp 90* bend coming off the board.
Just a couple of notes.
- I run the positive wire along the top and then down, so it doesn't interfere.
- I don't actually solder the wire in the holes. I fill the holes with solder and then solder the wire to the outside of the hole. 20g is a pita to get in the holes, especially if you try to tin either the wire or the solder pad/hole.
Plus soldering the wires like this means the wire doesn't need to make a sharp 90* bend coming off the board.
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This...
I just wish I'd tried it on board #1. Out of frustration, I decided to start all over with board #2. I guess when I finally get around to throwing the LIPO together, I'll find out if it still works. (Yes, I'm too lazy to use a multimeter
)
I just wish I'd tried it on board #1. Out of frustration, I decided to start all over with board #2. I guess when I finally get around to throwing the LIPO together, I'll find out if it still works. (Yes, I'm too lazy to use a multimeter
)
Risking showing my lack of experience and knowledge here, but why aren't we using 24g wire for all of the connections? I use 24g for fire/up/down switches, and that fits just fine. I end up trimming off some of the threads of the 20g so it will fit into the board holes myself, so it essentially ends up being around 24g.
There is no reason you cant. I have used 28g ribbon cable for the buttons, it works fine as there is only a few mA of current going through them. What you "need" the 20g for is the battery in, and the atty out, connections.
Finished Tibs 1.
Many thanks to:
BJ, for his idea,
Tibs, for coordinating and making this come to fruition,
Bap, for his design and insight into this unique mod,
Mike, for all his help and believing even a novice can do this,
and to all the others for their help in making this happen..
Many thanks to:
BJ, for his idea,
Tibs, for coordinating and making this come to fruition,
Bap, for his design and insight into this unique mod,
Mike, for all his help and believing even a novice can do this,
and to all the others for their help in making this happen..
For #2, I made a key.
have no idea why.
This ^^^^^ is too cool. Hats off for ingenuity.
For #2, I made a key.
have no idea why.
That's awesome! Now that I've found out that automotive touch-up paint (metallic) just gets sucked up into the pores of the 3d printing material, I may try to come up with something different. Granted, I should prolly try a primer, but I'm running out of "test spots" on the inside of the LIPO case.
Hmmmm...
Pics of front and back.
Again, thanks to all involved.
Happy as a hog in slop.
done.
Again, thanks to all involved.
Happy as a hog in slop.
done.
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