after two hours of use so far, form factor is awesome. weight is nice and present. this box is awesome, not that i've ever had another. the bar is definitely set high for the future.
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DNA30 in the House
Incredible Design Bapgood. Huge thanks to all involved.
The hardest part for me was the dang spray painting. Still not to happy with the finish. A few somewhat clouded areas. A couple ripply spots.
All in all, it really isn't that bad.
I LOVE THIS THING
Just call me Frankenstein #63... After NOT going in to work this weekend (err, not much anyway) 1.5 mods have been painted, 2.5 internals have been soldered and tested... and they WORK!
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Tibs,
Mine and my neice's mods ended up a single color, but Lisa is going to swirl hers. Flourescent pink and lime green, I think. I will post pics after they are thoroughly dry. I have had to touch up one mod three times because the breeze was knocking it off the hanger.
Tinypic works for me. Takes something really, really tiny and makes it huge.
They even enlarge nightmares.
uh, welcome back Mike.
after many hours of quality vaping... went to plug in the charger. light was on and all was well. looked away for a minute and looked back to see the charge light turned off. was thinking, "no way is it charged already, that was like five minutes." picked up the mod to find some paint stuck to the desk. i think my charging board got the magic smoke let out of it. i'll check it out in more depth tomorrow.
edit: decided to say screw the suspense. took off plate and removed battery tray. appears as though one of my solder joints gave and had some + to - intimacy around the charging board. dna is intact. charging board is.... well done.
why-oh-why have I continued trying to solder without flux?![]()
Sent!I have a spare if you need it. just pm me
63/37 solder is made of 63% tin and 37% lead. It has a melting point of 183°C, slightly lower than the more common 60/40 blend. The primary advantage of this solder is not the lower melting point, but its eutectic property. Non-eutectic solders, like the 60/40 solder, have a semi-solid state between solid and liquid. If a joint is moved during this stage, it can result in what is called a cold solder joint. Eutectic solders, like the 63/37, do not have this semi-solid state and are thus considered easier to work with as it produces fewer bad joints. However, these solders typically cost more than their non-eutectic counterparts.
Shouldn't have any trouble that a little sand paper won't fix. I will be using automotive clear on mine, that has me a little concerned but I'm sure it will be fine.
I like Kester brand "SOLDER NO-CLEAN 28AWG 63/37".
The 63/37 ratio solidifies quicker so I am less likely to move the wire while it cools. The 60/40 ratio takes long to solidify, increasing the chance of clumsy me moving it while it is still in the liquid phase thus creating a cold solder joint.
why-oh-why have I continued trying to solder without flux?![]()