Edit: @mikepetro we need to figure out how to anodize our erm+ in black or dark grey [emoji7]... Affordably![]()
http://www.observationsblog.com/sci...izing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid
Edit: @mikepetro we need to figure out how to anodize our erm+ in black or dark grey [emoji7]... Affordably![]()
Thanks Willy, do you remember if the quoted dimensions were accurate?I used a FlightPower 800 (FPWP3083) in my Hammond A box, been very happy with it. I get close to the same run time as the Turnigy Nano 1000 that I use in the G box. The FP fully charges in just two hours @ 1 amp while the Nano takes three and a half hours.
Thanks Willy, do you remember if the quoted dimensions were accurate?
Thanks Willy, since I have a massive 13.2 mm, 0.7 mm & 1 mm extra space in each dimension and you are more likely to remember when things are off I remain optimistic, I have to move some money into PayPal first so it will be a few days before I get some.I've got to be honest, I don't remember if they were or not, sorry about that.I took the original heat shrink off, changed the routing of the wires where they came out the side then re-wrapped it so I can't really measure it now and be accurate to what it was originally.
pictures?Just reporting back: the triplet is still working to my utter surprise for I did everything to kill herAt least I managed to broke the screen so I am flying blind ATM.
Anyway, I have refined the fire button so it is super flush and super clicky as desired.
I have also painted the case accidentally [emoji38][emoji38][emoji38] . I have tried to coat it with XTC-3D and screwed terribly. So I had to sand the surface and paint. And it became awesomeStill can't believe but better than anything I have hoped for. This stuff is awesome if you can use it not like me
. For me, besides being everything but smooth it went everywhere it shouldn't have killing my tight fits. That is how I broke the screen and that is why I couldn't close the cover fully now. But I wont fix it until my replacement screen arrives. I have made enough damage for now.
Unfortunately (?) I couldn't find any screen in stock. So It will be a new board that I will use later when replacement screens are back to stock. And I don't have to find any excuse for building an other mod
BTW, I have run a battery analyser at 50W w/ 3.09V soft cutoff and got 28.4Wh
Considering my allegedly voltage hog external fuse I think it is pretty all right.
In real life it means almost 2 (working) days for me with taking me home the second day and missing out the evening only. (25W w/50W preheat on tanks)
Pretty sure it is the 2nd from the left:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/dna-200-watt.680148/page-211#post-16791647
Looks awesome! Love that huge fire button.I think you are right
Anyway, @Phone Guy your wish is my command:
Before (as originally posted here) and after:
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Bonus track:
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Yep. Filled both the valleys between the layers and the interstices of the material and gave a more solid surface so it could have been sanded nicely.Looks awesome! Love that huge fire button.
So that xtc3d made it look solid? Took out all the grain of the print?
Nice...now for some new battery shrink wrap.
Still haven't had time to think clearly yet about this .... what is currently the preferred mod for dna200 and what squonker as well? (From shapeways)Got your DNA"S but no mod to put them in?
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