Which, coincidentally, is exactly what happened...
And then I cheered him up by power vaping him right there in first class.
And then I cheered him up by power vaping him right there in first class.
Milled catch cups and oversized atomizers
- Thread starter pdib
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
ok, been using this immortalizer for a bit now, I winded up sealing the 2 small holes that are mid way up the outer sleeve and opened 2 larger ones above them. the air draw is a little bit looser now and now there is absolutely no chance of leaking from the air holes on a squonk, this is the first leak proof design for a reo I've seen. what happens is when you squonk the deck gets flooded and the outer chamber starts to fill with fluid, then when you release the squonk most everything is sucked back but the chamber does stay a bit wet, once you draw whatever fluid happens to be in the air path just clears itself by sucking into the coil chamber... this provides a wet saturated vape and it works very well. it does seem to be a bit gurgley because you sometimes feel the excess fluid being sucked back but it doesn't hurt the vape really. even with 2 1/16th holes in the outer ring it's still not a very airy draw because it is limited by the 3 air feed holes in the deck, this combined with residual fluid winds up still making for a semi tight draw no matter how big you make the outer holes, only way to really make this thing much more airy would be to open up the 3 lower holes in the deck but I'm not really feeling the need to do that just yet, I can now comfortably get it up to ~17 watts with the airflow I have with the enlarged holes in the outer sleeve. this atty isn't for those who want to vape at 38 watts, the cyclone is great for that, this one is for those who want to vape at more normal power levels and want a great tasting vape and an atty that simply can't leak
a few pics to see how this thing is
here you can see the space between the inner and outer walls
I temporarily closed the 2 stock holes by shoving a toothpick in there and cutting it flush. I thought to make a ring for it to make variable air but with the stock 3 deck holes theres really not that much point in doing so, if I opened up the 3 deck holes and got to the point of a real airy loose draw then I could see maybe making an air control ring but right now there's not much point in choking it more than it is and it won't do anything to increase flow anyway so not much point as-is. I'm a little concerned that opening up the 3 holes in the deck may allow the outer chamber to fill faster bringing back the issue of a squonk ejecting fluid from the air holes so for now I'm leaving it as -is, it's just enough airflow right now
next time I have it all apart I can get better shots of the inner deck and the ceramic insert if anyone is interested in seeing this. I'd love to check out a cheap immortalizer clone to see if it's not so bad, maybe that would be better to experiment with opening the 3 deck holes a bit
a few pics to see how this thing is
here you can see the space between the inner and outer walls
I temporarily closed the 2 stock holes by shoving a toothpick in there and cutting it flush. I thought to make a ring for it to make variable air but with the stock 3 deck holes theres really not that much point in doing so, if I opened up the 3 deck holes and got to the point of a real airy loose draw then I could see maybe making an air control ring but right now there's not much point in choking it more than it is and it won't do anything to increase flow anyway so not much point as-is. I'm a little concerned that opening up the 3 holes in the deck may allow the outer chamber to fill faster bringing back the issue of a squonk ejecting fluid from the air holes so for now I'm leaving it as -is, it's just enough airflow right now
next time I have it all apart I can get better shots of the inner deck and the ceramic insert if anyone is interested in seeing this. I'd love to check out a cheap immortalizer clone to see if it's not so bad, maybe that would be better to experiment with opening the 3 deck holes a bit
Well, now, I am so pleased to hear tha . .. . . . . .HÖPPA! . . . → squirrel → . . . (excuse please)
I'm in the process of finally crushing my "training-wheels" bottom feeder VMOD XL. I'm sure I'll want something a bit more durable.
And I think we all know where that leads, don't we?
Since I have a number of pre-drilled RDAs left from the VMOD, I've been very intrigued by the milled REOs. Especially since you can get a milled one all finished from that nice Rob feller.
If I never anticipate going to cartos or regular atties, is there any downside to getting a milled-top REO? With RDAs it seems the full drip well idea is redundant. At least if the o-ring between the atty and the REO seals right.
Finally, any opinions yet on the durability of full catch-cup/RM2 vs. milled catch-cup/other RDA? Does having the full catch-cup give you any more support?
TIA for your time and info.
And I think we all know where that leads, don't we?
Since I have a number of pre-drilled RDAs left from the VMOD, I've been very intrigued by the milled REOs. Especially since you can get a milled one all finished from that nice Rob feller.
If I never anticipate going to cartos or regular atties, is there any downside to getting a milled-top REO? With RDAs it seems the full drip well idea is redundant. At least if the o-ring between the atty and the REO seals right.
Finally, any opinions yet on the durability of full catch-cup/RM2 vs. milled catch-cup/other RDA? Does having the full catch-cup give you any more support?
TIA for your time and info.
If you're not planning to use cartos or disposable atties, I would definitely get one with the milled catch cup. Opens up lots of possibilities.
Only that, if you do order an RM2 from Rob, with your milled REO, make sure to request that he NOT mill the RM2 to fit the catchcup, cause it looks a little silly without pants on. (I don't know if he's taken such a request yet; but feel free to be the first)
My RM2.0 is coming unmilled and in brass fashion (probably the first brass unmilled reomizer?), so I can say he's taken the request at least once
My RM2.0 is coming unmilled and in brass fashion (probably the first brass unmilled reomizer?), so I can say he's taken the request at least once
Haz been done befo...
Attachments
yeah, maybe Rob had the foresight to send me a couple of unmilled RM2s as well! 
(not that I ordered anything . . . .. . but there's no telling how much foresight he may have
)
(not that I ordered anything . . . .. . but there's no telling how much foresight he may have
)
looking at the milled coppervein you have what are the advantages of having a normal catch cup and a milled RM2??
I'm probably missing something but compatibility wise isn't it better to have a milled reo and an unmilled RM2 in case you want to try different atties?
The only benefit to the stock catch cup is when using disposable atties and cartos AFAIK.
No.
Well, nice to see how good it looks!- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
