Milled catch cups and oversized atomizers

[AaronY]

I received a second Trident clone yesterday, this is a $12 one from FT. It's MUCH nicer than the one I originally got from RTD, threads are smooth, good o-rings and the metal seems better especially on the posts. It also seemed easier to drill the deck after dremeling a flat spot. I'm definitely getting more!

edit: the only problem I had with it is the two holes directly across from each other, for dual coils, are slightly different sizes.

Can you post the pic of the trident clone drilled?

 

[player one]

the only problem I had with it is the two holes directly across from each other, for dual coils, are slightly different sizes.

I hated that about my trident clone too. Ended up drilling the smaller one to match. I used a 5/64" drill bit.

 

[zodduska]

Can you post the pic of the trident clone drilled?

It looks identical to Xobeloot's on the previous page

I hated that about my trident clone too. Ended up drilling the smaller one to match. I used a 5/64" drill bit.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Quigsworth]

Hey folks, been lurking this thread for a while now, I LP'd my first grand a long time ago in a failed attempt to bf a Spheriod (sick of filling it every half hour...)...I was waaay to afraid to post my "at the time" blasphemed" Grand for fear of the Reo purists burning my house down...it's great that this has caught on and to see the ingenious work you all have done...

Question: has anyone gone as far as punching out the 510, milling it flat with the deck, mod the delrin and installing a new modded pos firing spring? or would the now very thin top deck struggle to secure the 510? I was even considering putting the grand into a 4 jaw chuck and lathe an o-ring channel into the deck

It's purely a vanity aesthetic thing but I can't seem to find if anyone has done this...

 

[turbocad6]

that's funny, I bought a spheriod with the same thought, but the air passage through the 510 kills that idea.

I'm not sure what you mean. are you talking about removing the whole atty pad hump down to flush with the top and button pad? to me the extra hump makes the reo not 100% a square box. it's a small feature but it really makes the reo more stylish than just a square box. I like it just down to where the lp is now which is right down to the 510 and almost bottom of the drip well, but it leaves just enough well that it's now an o ring well pretty much already. not picturing what you are saying


guys have redone the whole firing pin setup with custom beefier stuff too. there's a thread here about it

 

[Quigsworth]

Yup, you know exactly what I mean, and I do get what you're saying..."but that dripcup is what makes the Reo the Reo?"...but if you really think about it, that drip cup has pretty much become a vestigial tail when viewed through the lens of todays RBA-centric vapescape...for me, I've always marveled at the genius simplicity and minimalistic looks of the grand...I guess I'm comparing my motivation to do this to why did we chop/channel '49 Mercs?...simple, to make a cool car even cooler...but I digress, perhaps it's just me (wouldn't be the first time)

I was just hoping someone on here had actually pulled the 510 so I knew what I'd be up against...has it been pressed in, thermal pressed, epoxied...threaded?

And thanks for the heads up on the custom firing pin thread...I'll search that regardless whether I shave the reo down or not...appreciate it.

 

[turbocad6]

well from what I see the hole that the 510 is pressed into is bored all the way through at the same diameter so one you press out the 510 insert then you should have no problem milling it down to flat flat and then just be left with the same sized hole as it was and still have plenty of material left there for sure, perhaps you can ask rob to sell you a new press in 510 shell. then you could press it back in and be in business with a flat top reo without having to do much other fabrication at all. the firing pin will lower by as much but I don't see that being anything too difficult to deal with, especially if you are going to build a new firing pin anyway. I redid my whole firing pin and did it from stainless steel instead of brass. brass is a little more conductive when it's clean but once it tarnishes a bit then stainless steel can actually be better compared to tarnished brass and the stainless stays untarnished so less maintenance at the 510 itself. I used a #8 stainless steel screw, ~1" long and drilled right up the center and then shaved the head down to just enough of a nub that it makes an excellent 510 pin and you can use #8 nuts to retain the new springy firing bar. many guys use a brass feeler gage as a replacement firing springy bar thing

 

[turbocad6]

oh and the chopped and channeled lead sled, yeah, I get it. this is my hotrodded reo

 

[Ian444]

What sort of rba is that Turbo? Looks reminiscent of a chalice, but not a chalice?

 

[turbocad6]

that's the divo.theres a thread right here in reoville with some stuff about it. I wish I had measurements of a chalice to compare the chamber but so far the divo is a really nice atty and edges most others out with it's tiny chamber

 

[Quigsworth]

Big on that lead sled...I checked out the blow by blow thread you put up, some nice work, I've built my share of mods and by some of the pics I could almost share some of your "hmmm..." moments...not to mention I also remember thinking Doh! somebody already did it (and did it well)

I was planning my DNA Grand to have the chip/screen mounted on the grand's side (device side)...I'm going to proto type feel/function by first building a Zmax grand, I've got the brain, now its just a matter of lurking the classy's for a beat "needs work" grand that I won't feel bad getting all Dr. Frankenstein on.

Thanks for the tips on the firing pin, I like the idea of replacing the entire pos post as opposed to drilling a hole in the firing tab (if you will) and press fitting it on the existing post (which has got bad conductivity written all over it), I was also thinking SS over brass, I have a nice piece of SS spring material out of a retractable bike lock that's about 3/16 wide (though feeler gauge, hmm...never thought of that?) and I think you're right, it's not much of a drop for the 510 to get it deck flush...the delrin should be fine, it'll just be a matter of putting a couple slight bends in the firing tab to gain the originals position...ok, I'm doing this...

 

[Quigsworth]

Ok, for those who may be considering shaving the drip-cup right off and taking right down to flush with the deck...the Reo's 510 conn. (and I imagine this would be the case for all the alum. mods) is pressed in and pressed in good, I tried a couple of scaled down methods I know to pull bearings, tie rods, steering columns, etc...no go...so I just said screw it, ground it down and draw filed the top decent for now and I'll just have to drill and press in a new 510.

And Turbo, your idea of drilling a machine screw up through the center and machining the head down to make a pos post is going to work great.

 

[hildicat]

Good to see back Quigs. It seems like its been quite a while since you posted. I know you've moved on to bamboo thread, but did you ever think you would see rolled cotton explode onto the scene like it has? IIRC that might have been your bright idea. Should have purchased stock in cotton farming!

 

[ChrisEU]

Just a heads up for the folks with the low profile Grands - we pestered Norbert (the creator of the Origen Dripper) into making a bottom feed center pin optional for the Origen Dripper V2, which is currently in production and on pre sale.

I can't wait to try that one - I even bought a mech tube mod to use the Origen Dripper V1 beside my bottom feeders. Origen on a Grand with the sub ohm kit will be great =)

 

[Filthy-Beast]

When I looked the pre-order is closed

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

Man yet another (pdib) thread resurrection...

Anyways I have been toying more with dual coil builds thanks to my Cyclone AFC. So I am no longer opposed to tri-post RDAs, I do have a Nimbus and an IGO-T but I love the adjustable air flow of my AFC. Top of my list right now are the Trident v2, TOBH Atty, and the Quasar.

Aesthetically:
1. Quasar
2.Trident v2
3.TOBH Atty

Pricelowest to highest that I have found)
1.TOBH Atty
2.Trident v2
3.Quasar

And now I ask for your input..if you have tried any of these RDAs LMK I love to read... TIA!

 

[ChrisEU]

I still owe you guys a picture - and here is it, even if its just a snap shot:

Origen V2 BF on my old self-milled Grand

 

[rjeatkrconley]

I still owe you guys a picture - and here is it, even if its just a snap shot:

Origen V2 BF on my old self-milled Grand

How did you mill it yourself? I was thinking dremel and a grinding stone just not sure what grain?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[Quigsworth]

A dremel may make a mess out of it, and the aluminum of the Reo will almost instantly clog any stone you use...it's pretty easy if you have a bench vise and a couple ....... files, one course and one fine...if you take your time you can get excellent results, just keep your files clean with a wire brush (a clogged file will marr your finish) and check often at all angles to see that you're level...Reo connectors tend to be a little shallow, don't feel you have to go even with the top of it, depending on your chosen rda/o ring you may end up with a gap if you do. Of course a bench disc sander with some good 120 grit and you're done in 3 mins.

My disc sander is set up to do them (I've done 4 now)...I don't mind doing it for folks that don't have the resources, it literally takes mins to do...just throw me a pm.

 

[Quigsworth]

I see that ECF censored out the type of file to use...it shares the same name as a fatherless child, lol...it's pretty much the industry name for them though

btw, for those that have mods other than Grands...I also ground down the SS cups on both my Boggers...you just have to make sure you don't get too aggressive and keep it cool...I imagine a Woodville would be even easier because the cups are brass...