I've always used 510 / eGo adapters from Provape... Made from SS in the USA.
Very high quality. Works well on the MKB-TS without the gold top cap.Ego-T Adapter
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I've always used 510 / eGo adapters from Provape... Made from SS in the USA.
Very high quality. Works well on the MKB-TS without the gold top cap.Ego-T Adapter
@ inganeer, so just the hole for the button is the hold up? And it that a MKB button? Bottom cap appears to be GG.
I just discovered Fontoon's Spectrum M1 uses GG compatible threaded parts. Don't see any imediate reason to seak one out or what may be useful but I like to document anything with potential compatibility with the mkb.
Most interesting part of spectrum to me is the 510 dripping atty supercooling housing with airflow control.
I got my info from Todd's reviews.
Most interesting part of spectrum to me is the 510 dripping atty supercooling housing with airflow control.
I got my info from Todd's reviews.
Well, I broke down and decided to get a MKB-TS from MOV, very nice price as well. I wanted to purchase one that has the brass/gold colored spring for the battery but couldn't find where I had seen it in the past. I also ordered 2 GGTS bases for my Nautilus and upcoming Hercules. Btw... has anyone come up with a new/better spring to use to might decrease the voltage drop?
On a side note I decided to rebuild my Nautilus with 28awg kanthal and 30 nickel and finally got a .8-.9ohm coil, just what I had been hoping for. It was a little tricky with the thicker and stiffer wires but it's Vaping away quite nice Looking forward to getting my new mod.
On a side note I decided to rebuild my Nautilus with 28awg kanthal and 30 nickel and finally got a .8-.9ohm coil, just what I had been hoping for. It was a little tricky with the thicker and stiffer wires but it's Vaping away quite nice
Looking forward to getting my new mod.
Hey Craig, i looks like your all over this thread and the Nautilus/Terminator/Odyssey one as well. Do you know if the Ithaka clone has the GGTS base already native to the device? I did order a 2nd base just in case it doesn't but since I'm a super new to these types of rebuildables I thought you might know.
I did find this little guy which looks like the adjustable 510 adapter but it is $10 but like $27 shipping!!! http://vapourtrend.com/shop/electronic-cigarette-pv-s-mod-s/mkb-ts-adapter2013-06-06-01-42-42-detail
Thanks. What is sad is that I could have bought another MKB for what I have in this...
. Paid $45 for the switch and base and $22 for the stealth cap and $7 for for the taps to do the switch hole. LOL. What the heck it was fun to do.
. Paid $45 for the switch and base and $22 for the stealth cap and $7 for for the taps to do the switch hole. LOL. What the heck it was fun to do.
It is GGTS by default and has a 510 adapter that resembles the collector tank and air control ring of a MKB-TS
The linked adapter is for use with the gold top cap in 510 mode
@ inganeer and all the other modders out there, check this site out, imagine owning one of those miniature lathes.
The Internet Craftsmanship Museum
This is pretty close to where I live, I have got to go there.
The Internet Craftsmanship Museum
This is pretty close to where I live, I have got to go there.
Props to dwcraig for getting my mkb back up and running- been loving it for two months. A month back the switch dissasembled on me, I fixed it with a pen spring. Then, my gf dissasembled it and lost that spring and I couldn't get any other spring to fit. He sent me a new switch assembly along with some ekowool. That stuff is awesome btw
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
On my first MKB;s switch, the one bfrie has now when I disassembled it to put the shim in I noticed that the button to plunger was loose. When I got my second MKB they was loose also. This needs to be checked before use when new and every once in a while after that.
Good people on this thread; Vince got me the shim material, someone posted in depth switch mod method, dwcraig1 has good advice.
I shimmed mine and tightened it up... rarely gets warm if that now.
I shimmed mine and tightened it up... rarely gets warm if that now.
Anyone else have problems using the locking ring without disassembling the switch
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
As long as you set the throw to where you want it, and then snug the locking ring with pliers, it should stay put. The same goes with the firing pin.. Take a small box-end wrench to the hex on the inside, and snugly tighten the hex on the button..
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