Mod/Batteries Overheating

[Baditude]

I have had the imren gold and busbar for a year and never had an issue. I bought the mxjo last month...

Something is wrong,
The smok prince tank / TFV12 Q4 heads should hardly work at 25w, they are 40w - 100w.
A t8 .15Ω head burning at over 33w confirms this.
I'd say your procolor is malfunctioning & sending far more power to the head than the display shows or you're using counterfeit/knockoff replacement heads.

Also the batteries you use are the most important part, all of the cells you've been using are re wrap mostly lower quality cells.
Stick to name brand cells on Mooch's list of recommended cells...

I will second what Topwater said.

Imren, Busbar, and MXJO are known battery "rewrap" brands who exaggerate the specifications of their batteries and can change out the cells that they rewrap to a lesser quality cell at any point in time. Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded or Aftermarket) Battery?

You would be doing better if you bought genuine Lg, Samsung, or Sony batteries from a reputable battery supplier.

North America
www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
​

It sounds like your primary problem is the SMOK mod malfunctioning. I personally avoid all SMOK products and advise all vapers do the same unless they have deep pockets full of cash and don't mind replacing their mod every 6 - 12 months. They are not particularly known for their longivity or quality control. SMOK does a great job of marketing their products and saturating the market with their products with vape shops, but if you have been on the forum as long as I have you'd see just how poor of a job SMOK does in making a durable product and a poor job with customer support.

SMOK tanks are power hungry tanks whose coils require high wattages.

Tanks can get pretty hot if you're a chain vaper, however the mod and/or batteries should NEVER get hot.

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

The Smok mod should display the pcb temperature. What does it get up to? Has the mod shut down due to temp too high?

Smok tanks in general get pretty hot especially with chain vaping. The mod itself less so.

If you're done with troubleshooting and just want a replacement, I'd go with an Innokin Proton. Great mod, simple menu, beautiful screen, and reliable. You can go with a kit ir mod alone if you want to use the tank's you have.

I have no idea how to check temp on this mod. Thank you for the suggestion on a new set up

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

I will second what Topwater said.

Imren, Busbar, and MXJO are known battery "rewrap" brands who exaggerate the specifications of their batteries and can change out the cells that they rewrap to a lesser quality cell at any point in time. Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded or Aftermarket) Battery?

You would be doing better if you bought genuine Lg, Samsung, or Sony batteries from a reputable battery supplier.

North America
www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
​

It sounds like your primary problem is the SMOK mod malfunctioning. I personally avoid all SMOK products and advise all vapers do the same unless they have deep pockets full of cash and don't mind replacing their mod every 6 - 12 months. They are not particularly known for their longivity or quality control. SMOK does a great job of marketing their products and saturating the market with their products with vape shops, but if you have been on the forum as long as I have you'd see just how poor of a job SMOK does in making a durable product and a poor job with customer support.

SMOK tanks are power hungry tanks whose coils require high wattages.

Tanks can get pretty hot if you're a chain vaper, however the mod and/or batteries should NEVER get hot.

Do you recommend a different mod or brand

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

So I just tried another tank. Only 1 battery is sill draining fast but nothing is hot. I put the prince tank back on and the first thing I noticed is it did not ask me if it was a new atomizer and automatically set the ohms to .41. This has never happened. I removed the tank and put it back on and same thing happened. When I went to put a different tank on it asked if it was a new or old atomizer.

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

Also the one battery that just flashed red is now back to the half way point. I took a hit and it went back to red

 

[Baditude]

Do you recommend a different mod or brand

I personally use the JAC Vapor series B DNA75W. Like yourself, I vape at 30 watts, and a single Samsung 30Q 3000mAh 15A battery lasts me nearly a full day. On top, I use the Original Uwell Crown Clearomizer Tank.

There are many other good options to choose from, though. Quite a few are listed in this blog that I wrote: Good Starter Setups for a Beginner Vaper.

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

Here is a picture pre fire and after fire. After I release the fire button it goes back to halfway point. I should add that I have the x tar charger which is probably 5 years old but my daughter uses it for her batteries and has no issues.

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

I personally use the JAC Vapor series B DNA75W. Like yourself, I vape at 30 watts, and a single Samsung 30Q 3000mAh 15A battery lasts me nearly a full day. On top, I use the Original Uwell Crown Clearomizer Tank.

There are many other good options to choose from, though. Quite a few are listed in this blog that I wrote: Good Starter Setups for a Beginner Vaper.

Could this handle a tank like the king cloud beast

 

[Baditude]

Here is a picture pre fire and after fire. After I release the fire button it goes back to halfway point.

My initial guess is the circuit board is not drawing current equally from the two batteries in your mod, but draining mostly from just one battery. That may be why the mod and battery is overheating. Anyway, the circuit board seems to be malfunctioning. As I said earlier, your tank can become hot (normal), but the mod or batteries should never get hot.

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

My initial guess is the circuit board is not drawing current equally from the two batteries in your mod, but draining mostly from just one battery. Anyway, the circuit board seems to be malfunctioning. As I said earlier, your tank can become hot (normal), but the mod or batteries should never get hot.

What is a reputable site for mods. We don’t have vape shops where I live, only smoke shops and they know nothing.

 

[Baditude]

Could this handle a tank like the king cloud beast

Size-wise, the 25mm version of the JAC Vapour series B could carry the 25mm diameter of the Cloud Beast tank without any overhang.

However, I said that the SMOK tanks and their coils are very power hungry. A clue to determine that is to look at the recommended wattage the coils use. The 75 watts of the JAC DNA75W aren't enough to power those coils. For those coils, you'll need at least a dual battery mod.

Since you apparently prefer to vape around 30 watts, I'd be getting a tank that uses less power hungry coils.

 

[Baditude]

What is a reputable site for mods. We don’t have vape shops where I live, only smoke shops and they know nothing.

My Vapor Store, Vapor DNA, Element Vape, and Eight Vape are popular and reputable online shops that carry a wide selection of mods and tanks. There are likely many more. The JAC Vapour mod can only be ordered from their website.
JAC Vapour - Ecig Kits, E Liquid and Vaping Hardware

 

[Eskie]

Reliable online vendors include, but are not limited to
Eciggity
E cig city
Vapor DNA
Myvaporstore
Eightvape
Element Vape

You can also look at forum suppliers down below the main forum site for others as well.

For batteries I would choose from Mooch's battery list. He is the resident expert on batteries. There's a list of reliable vendors at the bottom of the list.

 

[stols001]

To me from everything you said, it sounds like there is a problem in the mod's circuitry. You've tried to isolate it with tanks and batteries and kind of what remains is the mod. Unless you accidentally switched it to temp mode, I'm not sure why it's asking you if it's a new load all of a sudden (this could have easily have happened as you've been experimenting with it and I guess POSSIBLY why your battery read outs are changing a bit, but still wonky).

I'd replace it honestly. If you like the Smok tank and want to use it I would think you'd do better with a two battery mod if it's an ADV but that's me. I will second the fact that the Innoken Proteon is very nice, it's a light but well constructed mod that won't break the bank, I really like mine.

However, there are tons of other great options, the Eleaf Invoke is about the smallest lightest two battery mod you can get that won't break the bank, it's fairly basic and easy to operate not a ton of bells and whistles but solid, well made (especially for the size and lightness) I mean I think it may almost be smaller in formfactor than some of my single battery mods.

Then, teslacigs is a company I find pretty reliable and I like their board a lot they have tons of mod options and a new release that is very nice looking and takes two 20700 batteries (if you'd like to oh, charge your batteries twice a week) but they have all sorts of zany design mods to appeal to different tastes. Tons of options out there and I'm sure you'll get other good recommendations
.
Good luck with the replacement,
Anna

 

[Topwater Elvis]

All multi cell power devices require the use of identical cells in matched & married sets.
Exact same brand, mah, cdr bought at the same time from the same source charged and used as sets.
Are you using a combo of whatever cells you have or matched & married sets?

Could be the cell going flat is beyond its useful life or has an insufficient CDR to begin with, cannot supply the amp demand being asked of it and collapses under load.

Could be your power device is messed up or it could all be caused by old or re wrap insufficient cells.

No way for us to tell until you get new name brand cells with a sufficient CDR from a know reputable source.

The batteries you use are most important.

 

[bilboda]

Try a lil experiment. Assuming the screen battery icons are fixed to individual battery locations, swap them inside the mod and see if the weak cell icon changes position. If so, you have a bad battery. If not, then it's either not linked to the individual battery position and there may be some bad wiring or a bad chip inside. If that is what happens, get a new mod. If the first happens get a new pair of batteries and throw the weak one out.

 

[Baditude]

For batteries I would choose from Mooch's battery list. He is the resident expert on batteries. There's a list of reliable vendors at the bottom of the list.

To add to what Eskie posted, choose the specific battery you'll use depending upon the wattage setting you'll end up using and the amp rating of the battery. The list below is just an expanded list that Mooch used in the below video.

Are you using a single, dual, or triple battery mod? In the interests of keeping things simple:

-If you use a good quality 15 amp CDR battery like the Samsung 30Q or Sony VTC6, then you are good up to 45 watts per battery; 90 watts using two; 135 watts for three batteries.

-If you use a good quality 20 amp CDR battery like the LG HG2 or Samsung 25R then you are good for 60 watts per battery. If using a 2-battery regulated mod, you're good for 120 watts as you have two batteries. If you are using a 3-battery mod, you're good for 180.

-If you use a single 25 amp CDR battery like the Sony VTC5A, then you are good for 75 watts per battery, 150 watts for two batteries, and 225 watts with three.

-If you use a single 30 amp CDR battery like the LG HB6 you are good up to 90 watts; with a pair of 30 amp CDR batteries you could safely do 180 watts.​

WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY on REGULATED MOD:
(wattage doubles with two batteries; triples with three batteries)

Up to 45W:

Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR

Up to 60W:

LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR

LG 18650HE4 2500 mah 20 amp CDR

Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR

Sanyo UR18650NSX, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR

Up to 75W:

LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR

LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR

Samsung 18650-24S, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR

Up to 90W:

LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR

LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR

​

 

[MacTechVpr]

Good job on your reporting @Kittyntwinstarz. Observation is good.

Good luck (you have).

 

[Kittyntwinstarz]

All multi cell power devices require the use of identical cells in matched & married sets.
Exact same brand, mah, cdr bought at the same time from the same source charged and used as sets.
Are you using a combo of whatever cells you have or matched & married sets?

Could be the cell going flat is beyond its useful life or has an insufficient CDR to begin with, cannot supply the amp demand being asked of it and collapses under load.

Could be your power device is messed up or it could all be caused by old or re wrap insufficient cells.

No way for us to tell until you get new name brand cells with a sufficient CDR from a know reputable source.

The batteries you use are most important.

I have been using the same batteries on the same mod and tank for a year now. It just started having an issue this week. I never mix and match batteries. Not sure if this means anything but the batteries do have the authenticity sticker with verification code on them.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

No, the authenticity sticker is meaningless.

Seems you're missing what some folks are trying to stress, batteries getting hot is a warning sign, stop using the ones getting hot.
Unstable cells can become dangerous in the blink of an eye.

Only use authentic name brand cells bought from known reputable vendors, several links to Mooch's blog, test, recommendations and sources have been provided.

No one can say with any certainty if your power device is at fault or your replacement heads(coils) are the cause or if it is all caused by the suspicious quality cells you're using.

First step would be to buy quality authentic name brand cells, if the problem persists then try known authentic replacement heads, if it still is all funky then buy a new power device.

Buying a new power device isn't going to help if it is your batteries, or counterfeit heads / coils causing the problem.

One thing is certain, the batteries you are using are re wrap cells of unknown/suspicious quality.
Makes no sense at all to buy a new power device and use older/used re wrap cells.