Modifying a battery passthrough.

[Algernon]

So, I want to take my 510 passthrough, splice the battery box out of the line and resolder the wire so that it completely bypasses the battery.

Here's the same model I have.

Is it possible to make a 5V passthrough this way or has anyone done it before?
I figured it was logically possible... just wanting the modder's views on it.

 

[Dalton63841]

taking the battery box out of the equation makes it so you get 5v directly from usb to the e-cig, however it will most likely only carry about 500mA. Not enough for a 5v PT. It needs to be ~2-2.5A.

 

[Algernon]

Hm, granted it wouldn't be a true 5V PV, but would you think it would work correctly and provide decent vapor production even without the amperage or is the voltage level and performing as a PV dependent on that?

 

[Dalton63841]

Well the atty is gonna try to draw as many amps as it can. If you plugged it into a computer it could damage the computer. The amperage could also potentially melt the wires closest to the USB plug. Just from eyeing the picture above it appears that the wires before the battery box are a much smaller gauge than the wires after the box.

 

[Algernon]

I see, well. Thank goodness I contacted the lot of you before I did anything. I'll put a bit more effort into trying to find a decent passthrough that doesn't include a battery in-line. If you know of a good reliable passthrough that is currently for sale, could you point me in that direction?

 

[AttyPops]

If you're willing to resolder the box (as in your OP) you may as well just make a 5 v direct PT.... This is the most reliable PT. You need:

1) enclosure of some kind (like a 1xAA box or use the box from the PT above)
2) 3.0 amp button (RadioShack has em)
3) USB cord (thicker ones are better)
4) USB power supply that supplies 2.0 amps or more. Many USB hubs, or buy an AC USB wall wart.
5) Atty Connector scrounged from old battery, old PT, or buy one.

Solder the positive wire to the center of an atty connector through the button... e.g. wire -> button-> atty center.
Solder the negative wire to the atty shell.

That's it.

A couple of things will "spiff it up" a bit. An LED can be soldered to the atty side of the button, through a resistor, to the ground (atty shell). A 470 Ω resistor and 3mm LED should be OK, but check the LED specs. Heat shrink tube can be used to hold the USB cable in place so you don't strain it (put some on each side of the hole in the box that the cable goes into... put it on before you solder lol) All this is available at RS too.

P.S. LEDs only work in one direction... the short leg (if there is one) is the down-stream (ground) side.

 

[Algernon]

Seems easy enough. I'll look into it soon, thanks for the reply.

 

[AttyPops]

Cool. Oh yeah... P.P.S. You'll want 3.0 ohm atties (or some such) or 5 v is too hot (assuming you get the full amps drawn). LR atties on 5 v = burnt stuff.

 

[Algernon]

All of my atomizers are Mega/Ultra sized standard 510 atomizers, I don't use any LR stuff but thanks for the heads-up.