ok im going to chuck these photos here
ill try to explain whats going on in these pics but its going to be messy
ive left out a few things as this post was a spur of the moment thing and i dont really think it deserves its own thread until i go back and redo some text
but this is a really simple no rules,if it works use it type junkyard mod
for anyone
go to your hardware store or similar and look at anything that can be cut/glued/screwed into what you need
for this mod i would recomend using a 3.7v 18650 type battery
plenty of long life with 1 801 atomiser and no diode needed at these volts
please consider using protected batteries where possible and a good quality circuit protected charger , always change/charge batteries at the first hint of low power and check with a multimeter often to ensure safe upper and lower voltage limits in all batteries are at acceptable levels
.ok find yourself a suitable tube that will fit the desired battery you wish to use , including spring ,endcap and inner switch stop length in that total.
that will help you decide on switch placement as well and beyond that is the length needed to fit atomiser holder cap plus diode,led etc if required
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.yeh all the junk in the above photo , atomiser connector
-801 of course !,end cap,led - i dont need no bloody diode to hold my precious power back
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.just a layout of bits next each other , if i was to fit the led it would be alongside the switch but thats my preference usually i say bugger to the led , i know when im pressing a bloody button
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.ok another pic of bits n pieces , that long red wire is just there for the hell of it , i have a very messy workbench
above you can see the tube semi assembled with the atomiser adaptor fitted with insulator and the inner positive wire feed witch goes to the switch prong
that little copper wire feeding from the rear prong of the switch is a quick and easy way to connect power feed from the battery to the switch,once the switch is in place in the tube with that wire slide you inner battery end support cap into the tube with a little hole in it to get that wire thru , seat the cap and then grab the wire with long nose pliers or a screwdriver and twist it into a circle of wire to accept the battery positive feed
for the endcap of the tube it self i use migwire to go thru the cap and out each side its then shaped in a way to become the earthing point on the tube and also to interference fit the cap itself into the tube
i should of had some photos of that but i dont when i do ill put them in
its simpler than i can explain it
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.thats all you need to do for the inner wire at the atomiser end to make a connection ,strip it a bit ,fold it back on itself and throw on some heatshrink leaving 2 mm exposed to meet the inner connector of atty
the way i fit them i leave a bit of give in them so i can adjust the length slightly just incase its needed
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.dodgy closeup photo of those bits there , isnt this exciting !!
so all in all there are only 2 solder points in this mod both involving the switch so its nice and basic
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.oh look its some how turned out beautifully even with me doing it
in the switch/atomiser area there is still enough room to fit a diode + led and even a on/off safety switch if needed
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.look at that , it can hold its head up high amongst other mods of similar breeding
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.this is my pv of choice ,twin atts running 6v+ it does take awhile to put together but well worth the effort
i was using 7.4v but umm that was too much of a flavour killer
who says 801's are no good
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i hope the above photos and text will be understood slightly by at least 1 person besides me
