My first micro.

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Primulas

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They are AW IMR 14500 off the charger they read 4.16/4.17V and the resistance from post to post is 2.1 Ohms. Just wondering what resistance i should be shooting for ideally on the coil? Highest under load was about 3.0V at it's highest(should this go lower as the button stays pressed longer?.)

Hope that's the info you wanted....I'm new to this whole electronics stuff(says the desktop technician) :D
 

Primulas

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2.3 ohm spring to pin 2.2 post to post(Adjusted because as I get better with the mm I got a more accurate internal resistance of .8ohm)

Also retook voltage on a fresh bat again to rule out as much OE as possible. Held the firing pin a bit longer Seems to stabilize at 3.3 volts. Do these numbers add up better? And is this normal? Also think the battery stops producing very much caper at like 3.95 volts(aren't they usually good until 3.8?)

Thanks again, thanks for putting up with my learning curve with the mm(cheapo one at that)


-prim
 
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JC Okie

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Primulas, all that's ^^^^ pretty "Greek" to me, but I do know that on my Minis I always run around 1.5 ohms and get a great vape. I may be trading off a little battery time, but it's worth it. You can go clear down to around 1.0 ohms, but that's pretty hard on the battery. Before we even had rebuildable attys, I always ran 1.5 ohm attys and cartos with my Minis. A 2.0 ohm atty was a little too cool for me.
 

Primulas

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Primulas, all that's ^^^^ pretty "Greek" to me, but I do know that on my Minis I always run around 1.5 ohms and get a great vape. I may be trading off a little battery time, but it's worth it. You can go clear down to around 1.0 ohms, but that's pretty hard on the battery. Before we even had rebuildable attys, I always ran 1.5 ohm attys and cartos with my Minis. A 2.0 ohm atty was a little too cool for me.

I think my next coil i'll be aiming for 1.0-1.2 . If i switch to a smaller diameter coiling post i should be able to do nearly as many wraps and still lower the resistance right? My understanding is that the resistance is directly correlated to the length of the coil wire? Any diffrences between a longer/shorter coil as far as number of wraps go?(for instance 10 wraps on X diameter coil jig vs 5 wraps on 2(X) diameter jig?

-Primulas
 

JC Okie

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I think my next coil i'll be aiming for 1.0-1.2 . If i switch to a smaller diameter coiling post i should be able to do nearly as many wraps and still lower the resistance right? My understanding is that the resistance is directly correlated to the length of the coil wire? Any diffrences between a longer/shorter coil as far as number of wraps go?(for instance 10 wraps on X diameter coil jig vs 5 wraps on 2(X) diameter jig?

-Primulas

You're right. More wraps on a smaller jig should be the same if you're using the same gauge wire and stuff. It does have to do with resistance and it's measured in ohms per inch. Here's a good chart that will show you the resistance per inch with the different sizes of wire: Resistance Wire (ohms/in)

To get a 1.1 ohm coil, I use about 8 wraps around 28 gauge Kanthal. Or, I wrap about 6 wraps around the same size jig with 30 gauge wire. There are several variables....the size of the jig, the gauge of the wire, and the number of wraps.
 
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Primulas

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Just made a 10 wrap 1.2 ohm coil on my smallest precision screwdriver. Holy crap! It heats nearly instantly and hits great. Also getting better voltages 3.5+v. . think the voltage might be due to buying actual noalox(was using ox-gard). I thought it was just as good because it made such a noticeable difference. The noalox seems significantly better now though. It also seems to stay in place better and hold the right texture alot longer. Loving it.

Is 3.5v closer to what I should be pushing on a fullish battery?

Thanks again guys.

-primulas
 

eHuman

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Just made a 10 wrap 1.2 ohm coil on my smallest precision screwdriver. Holy crap! It heats nearly instantly and hits great. Also getting better voltages 3.5+v. . think the voltage might be due to buying actual noalox(was using ox-gard). I thought it was just as good because it made such a noticeable difference. The noalox seems significantly better now though. It also seems to stay in place better and hold the right texture alot longer. Loving it.

Is 3.5v closer to what I should be pushing on a fullish battery?

Thanks again guys.

-primulas

Yes it does, I was wondering where your V might be going to. You should be hitting harder at full charge now.
 

FeistyAlice

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In the field so little time. I just pecked out longer and lost whole text due to weak signal.

I quickly tested using doohicky on 6 mo old battery that has been stored several days since coming off charger. Used screw in atty type voltmeter no load and under load. REO, 18490, in pretty continuous use for over a year, no rebuilds, no pin filings until a couple of months ago. A hot water bath and re-noaloxing about once a month but sometimes longer between. (I want to insert here that many, many REOs have been used for very long times, even years without a need for filing pin BUT I will venture to say that the lowest ohm coils used were at or above 1.5 ohm.)

RM2, 1.44 ohm, ? wraps 28 ga, ~1/16 ID. Battery no load 4.17v; under load 3.80v giving .37 drop. Second firing under load 3.78v and next 3.77v. I didn't go any further because out of time and no juice to drip to keep cotton from burning.

REO hasn't had a bath in over a month, probably two months, pin has been filed only once this summer, even though it was probably not necessary, RM2 has been off maybe four times in those two months with only well and attachment wiped out. And dusty conditions.

I think, only going on subjective "feel", but having years vaping on different REOs, that my "tested" REO voltage drop is pretty typical.

With 18490 battery I get at least 6ml, more usually 9ml juice through, with several mos old batteries, before swapping out batteries. They usually measure 3.7-3.8 no load when I switch them out. That's with ~1.5 ohm RBA.

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FeistyAlice

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Yes it does, I was wondering where your V might be going to. You should be hitting harder at full charge now.

Could it be condition of battery or age or type? Over past couple of years I got a few, a very few, new AW IMR 18350 batteries, from reputable, reliable sources that were puny from the start. But haven't had issues with other size NEW AW IMR.

If batteries came from a trade and were not new I would be looking at condition of battery. When my batteries start getting too much age on them and I know how they have been treated, they exhibit really fast, almost instant big drop under load. That's when it's time to throw them in recycle box.



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Primulas

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Battery condition is suspected on a few of them. Also the incident I had a while back where my firing pin was sticking down may have done some battery damage. Had one where i felt it burning my leg from my pocket. A couple others may have Been unknowingly discharged for 30 plus seconds. Not sure what this may do to a battery. Also these are 14500, they are only 600maH.

its been working great the last 2 days. Though I do notice the 2nd half of my work day I wish for a rewick. Not so sure about trying a dry burning in the office lol. Actually seems more like needs to burn gunk off coil more than actually needs a new wick.. That's like =< 2mls b4 wanting a cleaned coil. When do you guys notice a considerable difference?

Picking up grand from post office tomorrow morn; yay!

-prim
 
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