They actually wont' make any less heat. The higher current regulators dissipate heat faster by spreading it over more area. They use larger semi-conductor junctions on the chip and more heat sink area. The power you don't use is always going to be dissipated as heat. For example if you vape at 2A and 5V, that's 2.4V and 2A (4.8W) you're not delivering to the atomizer. That 4.8W will be dissipated regardless of whether it's a 3A or 5A regulator.
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Thanks Craig, I learn something new every day
I had assumed that it would just be idling along since it was only operating at 40% ... hmmmm ... it IS a TO-220 package, does it have a larger pad than the 350? I hope the same heatsinks will work.If they are both TO-220 packages they would be the same externally. In this case, the difference is only in the size of the chip inside. Though, you may need more external heatsinking to achieve the current limits the part can handle, not that you would ever vape at 5A, that wouldn't be humanly possible.
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Fairly new to building electronics so please excuse the noobishness if this meems like a basic 101 question:
Can I use this regulator. The only problem I see is that it only allows a 1.5A output. I don't know the formula's for calculating some of this stuff (I am learning quickly) so a little help to know if this would work would get me a VV PV going.
Adjustable-Voltage Regulator LM317T - RadioShack.com
Thanks!
Can I use this regulator. The only problem I see is that it only allows a 1.5A output. I don't know the formula's for calculating some of this stuff (I am learning quickly) so a little help to know if this would work would get me a VV PV going.
Adjustable-Voltage Regulator LM317T - RadioShack.com
Thanks!
I have a whole drawer full of those, I had the same question myself. I understand that it is possible to run two of these in parallel circuits to give you 3 amps but they told me that, if they weren't properly balanced, one would be dominant over the other. That's why I decided to get some LM350T's, as Donptal designed the circuit, to use in my mods. The 350 works fine
I am now looking at LM1084IT-ADJ because it has a 5A limit, in fact I ordered some of them for future mods.Search Ebay for LM350T, I found them for less than a buck each in 10-lots, shipping included. Of course, they come from Honfkong, so don't get in a hurry.
Hope that helps a bit
Was hoping I could find it locally. Thank you for the information. Apparently I was thinking correctly. I may order some off e-bay, but it doesn't make it cheap when buying 10 XD. although 2 for 5$ doesn't sound great either....
Thanks again for the info.
Thanks again for the info.
could you use the vv output on an open battery pin? then it would show the vv output as say bat3 when it scans
I bought a handful of these from Hobbyking. They arrived amazingly fast, considering they came from HK or somewhere???
About 2 bucks. measures 2-6 cell battery packs. I tried it out with a 2-14500 mod, it scans: shows first batt, then shows second, then show total voltage. Kinda neat! Trying to figure out how it could also show output voltage of VV reg. Perhaps not, but maybe????? Anyway, for 2 bucks it is a neat toy.
Excellent idea .. why did I not think of that
It requires a minimum of 2 batts to function correctly. When hooked up, it scans thru the batts, one at a time, then shows total. Only tried with 2 batts, haven't tried 3. I am thinking the atty connector should be hooked up as batt #1, since the meter is for daisy-chained batts, therefore they don't all reference to ground, only the first battery connector. Batt 2 measures from batt1 + to batt 2 + then to batt 3 + etc.
asnider ive seen some of your stuff here and there good work sir and very inspiring lol
i think i will try this one out but i really would like to do it with only one battery i'm sure theres a thread somewhere for that but i havent had time to look yet...
let us know if that works with the display ty
i think i will try this one out but i really would like to do it with only one battery i'm sure theres a thread somewhere for that but i havent had time to look yet...
let us know if that works with the display ty
Using a single battery with a HV mod requires a special circuit, which I have not yet played with. I know that several members on this thread have used the TI circuits, a little searching of this and other e-cig threads will give you tons of info. For me, that's in the future.
Alan
This is the booster chip. Plug-in Power Module - Non-Isolated POL - PTN04050C - TI.com I been meaning to make something with it i have a couple sitting here collecting dust.
that data sheet says min Vout 5 ?
so does this mean you cant use it for say 4.2v?
so does this mean you cant use it for say 4.2v?
since nobody wants to chime in i will add that i found that ptn chip curcuit diagram on breaktru site and it says it will go down to 3.24v for anybody interested.
Vari Volt Booster Regulator w/ Digital Pot - Copper Mod
Vari Volt Booster Regulator w/ Digital Pot - Copper Mod
I'm going to incorporating your vv setup into my first mod in a week or so. I saw something about a regulator here that will be more efficient. Would that one be better. And if I want 3-7 volts what kind of resisters would i need? I'm not very electronically inclined
I think its much better for you to go to the thread where you find that regulator that I'm not familiar with. The resister that regulators uses vary from one to the other so without knowing your regulator, I can't help you in any way.
I liked this one for my first VV as it was easy to put together.
It's a little more pricey than most to put together but it works very well and is easy to do. Also check the Evercool thread for a similar setup that may be a little less expensive.
Hey guys, any ideas on combining the poorvari circuit with the touch switch circuit?
I've used Alan's touch switch; but want to try combining the two.
ETA: The horn style switch on my main Puck mod is going (again) and I've been using my touch switch Puck and am wanting to stick with this type of switch.
I've used Alan's touch switch; but want to try combining the two.
ETA: The horn style switch on my main Puck mod is going (again) and I've been using my touch switch Puck and am wanting to stick with this type of switch.
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With this circuit I would run a Pchannel touch switch. But you could run Alan's Nchannel if you wanted too. Just slap it after the master switch and before the ADJ resistor trace.
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