My thoughts and issues with the DNA40
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So my latest update.... Yesterday morning my new DNA40 arrived. I replaced the existing board that had the glitch issue.
The screen no longer glitches. The other interesting thing that I've noticed, is there was another problem that manifested on the original board that I sort of knew about but wasn't quite sure what was causing it, but it doesn't happen with the new board...
That is that either in normal mode when the screen glitched, or when running in stealth mode after it had idled and powered down, it would reset the base resistance. So if I was running a .11 build and chain vaping it... Then set the unit down for 5 minutes but it was still kinda warm and hit the button again it might pick it up as say .14... That doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the temp it runs at and therefore quality and consistency of the vape. In fact, sometimes depending on my temp setting it would push me above the point where I would start to get a burnt tinge to the flavor. With the new board this doesn't happen at all. Once the atty has it's resistance set it stays there... Never changes... and the vape stays solid and consistent no matter what!
The screen no longer glitches. The other interesting thing that I've noticed, is there was another problem that manifested on the original board that I sort of knew about but wasn't quite sure what was causing it, but it doesn't happen with the new board...
That is that either in normal mode when the screen glitched, or when running in stealth mode after it had idled and powered down, it would reset the base resistance. So if I was running a .11 build and chain vaping it... Then set the unit down for 5 minutes but it was still kinda warm and hit the button again it might pick it up as say .14... That doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the temp it runs at and therefore quality and consistency of the vape. In fact, sometimes depending on my temp setting it would push me above the point where I would start to get a burnt tinge to the flavor. With the new board this doesn't happen at all. Once the atty has it's resistance set it stays there... Never changes... and the vape stays solid and consistent no matter what!
I noticed the same glitch when reseting or powering down / resetting the battery, but I think it doesn't happen with stealth vape. My new chip arrived as well but I still have to get my ... up to rip out the old one, solder the new one up etc.
One thing I've just learned is that you are not supposed to use silicon intended for the bathroom, because it produces acidic something when binding, which can be a problem for electronics. Aquarium silicon binds neutrally and is ok. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find anything on "electronic grade silicone" before.
One thing I've just learned is that you are not supposed to use silicon intended for the bathroom, because it produces acidic something when binding, which can be a problem for electronics. Aquarium silicon binds neutrally and is ok. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find anything on "electronic grade silicone" before.
Mine was already done (I'm assuming by evolv) but still had the issue... Had I received one that wasn't done I honestly wouldn't have used silicone anyway... I'd have used something more purpose built... Probably some corona dope... That's the stuff used on flybacks, etc... Even has a little brush built into the cap. Just a dab will do you. LOL...
Anybody have a source for a DNA 40. Got the fundage and now I can't find one!
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Chip only or mod... Either way protovapor has both
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I ordered mine from VapeDojo. They have local shops less than a hundred miles from me. Arrived the day after I ordered. Should be overnight for you too, 2 days at worst.
This is very good news to me, and I am sure others who are watching.
Thanks for the update.
Jim
Vapedojo was out so I went with Protovapor. On order, let the waiting begin!
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Well protovapor is top notch service so it won't take long even from Hawaii
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Cool! Didn't realize they were in Hawaii. Shipping was less than five bucks. Ordered the charging module too. Do you guys think I can charge 2 parallel 18650 with it? The one that I got with the SX350 does no problem.
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
I'll work. But keep in mind the original evolv charger is only 500mAh, so that's like throwing them in a 250mAh charger.
To be honest, in any of my mods that have built in chargers, I don't use them. Every box I own I converted to magnets so I could easily swap. It just makes thing so much nicer in my opinion.
The case I am contemplating using is very similar to the Vapor Flask. The batteries would be a b.... to change often. I found a battery supplier that will spot weld solder tabs on an 18650 for 25 cents each solder. Think I am going to buy from them if I can find the right battery on their site.
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Just FYI: You can also buy pre-welded batteries, or solder them yourself (haven't done it myself though). There are also other usb charger boards with 1000mA you can use instead of the evolv.
Regarding USB chargers, will the current pass through the DNA40 (or 30) chip or go straight to the battery? If the former, I'm guessing there might be some problems using a higher charge current board?
I've wondered about how that works too. It's probably rather complicated. The charger boards are wired in parallel to battery with the dna chip, so they probably sense what kind of voltage / current the dna draws and adapt accordingly. I don't really have a clue. It's also possible that not all charger boards support pass through vaping (Simultanious vaping / using the battery and charging it).
As for the current, afaik they charge with 500mA / 0.5 ampere and the dna can draw something like 13 ampere. But relevant is the voltage that is present at the chip.
If you google it you will probably find someone recommending suitable 1000mA boards for regulated mods.
As for the current, afaik they charge with 500mA / 0.5 ampere and the dna can draw something like 13 ampere. But relevant is the voltage that is present at the chip.
If you google it you will probably find someone recommending suitable 1000mA boards for regulated mods.
WAY back in the day when I used to race RC cars (before I moved on to planes and helis) I would make my own packs. Soldering them was quite easy, but you HAVE to have a VERY high power iron. The battery (not to mention a nice big tab) sinks a LOT of heat... So you have to be able to get it hot VERY quickly. It seems counter intuitive, but the more heat you can get on it in a very short period of time, the less heat actually gets into the battery itself... If the iron isn't hot enough then all that heat is getting sucked in and builds up rather than just dispersing.
These however were NiCd and NiMH batteries... Not lithium... I really don't know how safe, if at all it is soldering on them... Spot welding would certainly be the safest bet.
It won't cause any problems... Think of it like this...
If you have some electronic device that requires say 3v... (Two AA batteries for instance) You can take 500 AA batteries all stacked in parallel and the device will run just perfectly... Albeit a REALLY REALLY long time..
Just as if I have a device that draws say 200mAh and feed it with a supply that is capable of 20A... It will happily run along all day long... Only drawing 200mAh... Just because a supply is capable of outputting a certain current doesn't mean it will... It's just what it's capable of delivering. A "charger" is nothing more than a slightly glorified power supply. A charger for one of our 18650 cells will deliver 4.2v... The battery voltage (assuming it's not charged) will be less than that... Which means the battery will draw current off the supply (the charger) and "store" that energy. A charger has a built in "current limiter" that prevents the battery from drawing any more than a certain current... Because otherwise it would try to draw too much energy into itself too fast to equalize the voltage difference between it and the charger. So it cuts back the current and "dribbles" it in instead...
Does that make sense?
It won't cause any problems... Think of it like this...
If you have some electronic device that requires say 3v... (Two AA batteries for instance) You can take 500 AA batteries all stacked in parallel and the device will run just perfectly... Albeit a REALLY REALLY long time..
Just as if I have a device that draws say 200mAh and feed it with a supply that is capable of 20A... It will happily run along all day long... Only drawing 200mAh... Just because a supply is capable of outputting a certain current doesn't mean it will... It's just what it's capable of delivering. A "charger" is nothing more than a slightly glorified power supply. A charger for one of our 18650 cells will deliver 4.2v... The battery voltage (assuming it's not charged) will be less than that... Which means the battery will draw current off the supply (the charger) and "store" that energy. A charger has a built in "current limiter" that prevents the battery from drawing any more than a certain current... Because otherwise it would try to draw too much energy into itself too fast to equalize the voltage difference between it and the charger. So it cuts back the current and "dribbles" it in instead...
Does that make sense?
It makes sense, but I'm not sure if it's answering my question
The evolv charging board puts out 500ma, right? 18650s can handle twice that easily. However, if that current runs through the DNA chip instead of bypassing it, and the chip for some reason doesn't like more than a 500ma input, then using a 1a charging board might cause problems. So, what I'm really asking is, does the current from the charging board go through the DNA chip or is it passed through without interfering with the chip? Not sure if I'm making sense?
Mini USB is 1 and micro USB is 500 or .5 I see people using the mini ' s bc they charge twice as fast as, loosely twice, the micro ' s that are in the Hana for example. I don't know what charges faster than that tho..
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