Natural Tobaccos - Part Deux
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Epic FastTech order. Picked up the Magma and Origin V2 1:1 drippers. Went for the Stingray X 1:1 mech, since I couldn't decide on which Panzer to get. Threw in a couple ceramic DTs and a glass DT with SS base. Lots of goodies for $60, should scratch my new hardware itch for a while.
Also picked up the Nirvana sample pack sale deal to get some fruit vapes on hand.
Also picked up the Nirvana sample pack sale deal to get some fruit vapes on hand.
To provide some relevant answers to your questions... you'd need to provide specific info not general info as you gave...
There are several makers of the various VAMO's... and several different versions of them as well and different specs on each.
Most all PV's send their power output on a single circuit.... So yes the output is split on dual, triple, quad, etc types of coils whether they are a VAMO or a Provari ( or whatever ). In otherwords, the coils operate in parallel to each other.
You should also describe what type of wire you build with, the gauge of it, the resistance you are building etc.
I have a Vamo V5 (clone from Focal) that I use the Magma on. Single coil, 1.8 ohm, KGD mixed with cellucotton (rayon) as my current wick. Also use it on an MVP2. 7.5-8 watts and I am a happy camper. But that's just me. I like to keep things simple.
PS current coil is 30 g Kanthal,16 g needle, contact coil. Don't know if I am explaining the tech right but I think you will get the idea.
PS current coil is 30 g Kanthal,16 g needle, contact coil. Don't know if I am explaining the tech right but I think you will get the idea.
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I have no problem using the vamo, kfl clone and KGD combination with NET's.
Not saying it's the best combination by any means, and as far as tanks go i prefer a rebuilt pt2 for the draw, but i don't get any flooding with this set-up, and i can vape 4 ml of the gunkiest NET without a drop-off in performance.
4 40 screw mandrel 7 wraps of 29 g kanthal 1.51 ohms.
Any of you folks using these on VAMOs or something equivalent in output?
As I understand it, dual coils on a 5A max draw device like the VAMO splits the output between the coils.
I'm trying to get the Plume Veil to perform adequately on this thing, but it's pop and fizzle until most of the juice is gone (even barely saturating the wick, trying different numbers of wraps, micros, and loosely, ect.) unfortunately.
I'm hesitant to purchase anything else besides another KFL clone with the experience I've had so far. KGD just wicks too darn fast for whatever I'm doing to supply enough heat.
Thoughts? Do I need to make massive lower gauge coils to get decent performance? I can deal with having to add more liquid, I just want to be able to use what I've already put in there. Same concern goes for the Magma. If and when I get a DNA mod, it's going to be a genuine one with a genuine DNA circuit board. I've heard too many stories about faulty circuit boards in clones causing batteries to vent, ect.
As it stands, I have two pretty useless Plume Veils. I could probably try ReadyXwick, though.... that might actually work, being that it has a hollow core.
Now I'm curious as to whether triple-twisting is going to require the same draw on the battery as a lower gauge wire. If it's higher, I might as well just get some lower gauge kanthal. However, if it's treating the 3 pieces as one coil, I should have no problems.
I do know it takes a heck of a lot longer for a triple-twisted 32AWG wire to heat up compared to a single piece, but it also cools down much slower. This works fine for ReadyXwick, because it doesn't really mind the heat. I'm concerned about what might happen to cotton, though....
Tanks, as long as the wick is just right, perform well for me. However, no matter how I tried to wick the KFL clone; big or small coils, the KGD just pulled so much juice that it would flood the coil and airhole. I even tried a V-coil and loosely laid some KGD around that. Slight improvement, except the added bonus of burnt cotton flavor (Even though it was less densely packed and just kinda sitting there). The delrin drip-tip that cracked the edge of where the factory drip-tip (made of MAPP) goes apparently also caused a split going into the entire top cap, so I won't really be experimenting with KFLs again until I order another or something similar.
All that being said, it's possible the Magma is easily going to oust the Plume Veil, despite there being something like 10-12 ways for air to enter the Plume Veil (2 on cap above the delrin; one on either side of the base below the coils; 3 holes aligning with those on either side, and two holes for either double or single coil depending on which you have blocked off/open) with a total of 4 posts and a rotating center post. I accidentally turned the darn thing when I was trying to screw in a lead and though to myself, "Well, that's interesting."
Are most of you using mechanicals with the Magma? I am just a tad bit nervous about mech mods.
I use the Magma and the Origen V2 on the Vamo V5.. 12-15watts on 1-1.2ohms (dual 2-2.4)
my vamo v5 doesn't fire below 1.2 ohms, yours can fire at 1 ? is that because it's a dual coil, or a\does it depend on the specific v5 ?
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The devices, even of the same make/model... vary slightly so some will fire a lower Ω than some others.
Sorry, yeah, that was pretty general.
Vamo V5; Fasttech; Sony VTC5 18650; Nitecore L2 charger; 1/16 bit using NR-R-NR 1.8's for the EVODs; KGD cotton; 32AWG [twisted and non-twisted tested] 1/16 | 5/32 bit @ 1.5-1.8Ω in the KFL clone (Very, very small screws. Hard to get wire around them.)
This is the Svoemaestro ['SVM'] clone of the KFL using MAPP, not polycarbonate, for the tank material;
1.3-1.5Ω wrapped in various ways with 32AWG in the Plume Veil (double, and triple-twisted 32AWG have all been used successfully in the EVODs.)
No idea why the center post insulators in the EVOD coil heads didn't disintegrate with the triple-twisted...
That took a LOT of wraps and was just barely not touching the walls of the coil assembly to hit 1.5Ω.
clnire said:
Gotcha. Mine's a FT v5, usually set up single at 1.8Ω or rarely dual-coil at 4Ω each to hit 2Ω. I think I must be wrapping these too small.
Mazinny said:
Thanks. Yeah- after looking at how you have yours built, I definitely think I'm building my coils way too small and was making the wicks too tiny for the SVM KFL.
Midniteoyl said:
I can get mine to fire at 1.2; I may or may not have tried (memory is failing) firing a 1 ohm to actually see if it would "Low Load" out on me or not. The weird times are when first checking the readings on a coil and seeing some astronomical number, sending current through it, and then actually seeing the proper reading.
Never quite could explain that...
rdsok said:
I do know that my Vision Spinner will fire things that the VAMO will "Low Load" out on. For the life of me, I can't remember what resistance.... I'm thinking it was either 1ohm or .9.... gah, I really can't remember.
I didn't even try the .07Ω dual coil I accidentally made.Overall, I like the look of the Magma. That well is deep compared to the limited surface on the Plume Veil (drops , versus however much that deep, cavernous well holds). I mean, I like how the Plume Veil works when it does give out a proper hit (airflow galore), but not getting that many puffs can be frustrating, to say the least.
In summation, I need bigger coils or at the very least, more surface area to the ones I'm using. I used this video from RiP Trippers as the reference for my triple-twisted 32AWG. I used the same concept for the double-twisted.
Looks like I know what I gotta do, now.
Many thanks.
I have the 1:1 stainless steal clone from fasttech. People say its as good or almost as good as the infinite clone. The Infinete clone is supposed to be as good as the original. I don't have either of those. From what I have read. U can't go wrong with either of those 3. Only thing about the fasttech clone. The 510 threads are longer than usual. So depending on your mod. It may not flush mount. Also don't stuff the juice wells. All of needs is a little bit of cotton. Just enough to touch the bottom. For best flavor and vapor. Keep the coils low. Just make sure none of the wires touch anything the shouldn't. Including the chimney.
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One of my first diy nets was the mango vanilla. It left me wishing they had used Cavendish as the base, it wasn't a hit and me being a novice may be part of that but I was on a search for fruit flavored tobacco's and now I'm just into cav's and branching out to Turkish/english
I shoot for 1.2 dual coil, but have ended up @ 1ohm before, no problems..
I had a chat with Clay today. He has some really exciting cigar extractions in the works and some new varietals.
It is the Clay of old. Passionate, and always thinking of the next best Net or improvement.
I've been vaping his sun cured Turkish today and it is phenomenally good.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is the Clay of old. Passionate, and always thinking of the next best Net or improvement.
I've been vaping his sun cured Turkish today and it is phenomenally good.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Dusty. In that case I might get the Vapeking one. I held back because the copper and brass are out of stock but the SS one is available. For some reason I thought copper or brass might be better.
They certainly look swish.
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Then consider yourself lucky that your device fires at loads below 1.2Ω ... many do not.
Info, thoughts and suggestions you may consider...
First the OCD part lol.... FastTech is a reseller not a manufacturer. Vision, Kangside ( KSD ), HCigar and I'm sure many other clones and even fakes that actually manufactor VAMO's and their quality varies greatly between them. In addition, FT often carries several different ones made by the various manufacturer's ... so saying you got it from FT doesn't always say which brand you ended up with. FT has sold fakes as the real thing in the past, so you really never know if you purchase through them what actual brand you are getting.
As far as I know... the Vamo v5's have a 4a limit... not a 5a as you had first mentioned.
In a single wrap ( not twisted ) coil... I believe that 32g is too small of a gauge to get very much surface area unless you are twisting it. I've been building microcoils on 1/16" rod using 30g kanthal... 10 wraps gives me about 1.8Ω. By making them microcoils ( all coils touching each other ) I don't have to use NR wire to avoid hot legs.
So... increasing the surface area allows you to spread more heat across a larger area without burning the e-liquid as quickly ( as a smaller area with the same heat/wattage ). This can increase both flavor and vapor production.
On the flip side... too much surface area will make it take longer to heat up also... so you must balance between the two.
Low ohm coils are made more for mechanicals which can't boost their power level in order to reach the output they are desiring. As long as the VV/VW mod you are using can give you enough amps... you just turn it up until you get what you are looking for instead. This gives the advantage of being able to increase the surface area ( up to a point )
Clinire, simple is often the best. I experimented quite a bit with all kinds of coils ; single, dual, twisted, dragon, micro, macro, nano etc ... It got to a point that i was spending more time tinkering with the set-up than actually vaping. I even experimented a while sub-ohming with a mechanical and a dripper.
It got tiring soon enough. I honestly didn't detect a noticeable boost in flavor with all the exotic builds, and i found the mechanical/dripper combo too finicky. Maybe it was my equipment, i don't know, but i have the panzer, nemesis and launcher clones and the trident and patriot gathering dust on a bookshelf now.
Eighty percent of the time, i use the Vamo v5 and SVD, which were my first purchases after eGo's, and the various pt's and evods that i re-build. Getting proficient at building a t.m.c. and the appearance of the aero-tank base and kgd simplified my vaping and saved me a lot of time. I find that i get the best draw/flavor combo with that set-up and it just works for me. The only reason i still use my Kay/Tai's is i paid good money for them to be honest, and i think i will retire those too, pretty soon.
Eighty percent of the time i use a tensioned micro coil, and for the gunkier NET's a tensioned non contact coil, 1.6 mm to 2.2 mm i.d. depending on the particular device, and between 9-12 Watts. The threads on my Vamo and SVD aren't what they used to be, with all the topper changes during the day, and i will be purchasing a 20 or 30 Watt box mod soon, but that's mainly for the ease of fitting in my pockets. I don't anticipate going above 15 Watts.
That's a smart practice. I find it alarming that a number of companies are releasing brass and copper atomizers. I'd only be comfortable with naval brass and I doubt any of the cloners are using that material.
Fresh mangos are indeed amazing. One of my favorite parts of visiting Southeast Asia is devouring fresh fruits that aren't commonly found here.
Well, it's this one, whoever makes that.
If anyone else decides to get one from there, please get the stainless steel version. I mutilated the brass threads on mine within a day.
In regards to the 4A output limit, I'm guessing that has something to do with the overhead for the circuitry and voltage control?
It specifies 5A on that page, but I really don't know what I'm actually getting out of it.
Hmm, 30g sounds more useful to me than 32. I use the NR-R-NR because it just removes the need for me to really do any work to get a coil rolling in an EVOD; stick 1/16 bit inside of coil, drop down into coil head, bend one lead, stick insulator on other lead, put center pin in, apply tortion, and snip excess. Then, it's just check, wick, and fire.
I will admit, however, that the wider ones I built around the ReadyXwick were much more snug and had less tendency to leak, because each was exactly the same width. Those were all kanthal, in various combinations. I liked the parallel 32g better than the double-twisted, and the triple as a microcoil was surprisingly gunk-resistant. I can't say the same for the wick... outside strands appeared normal, but after months, when I finally disassembled it..... the core of the wick inside of the coil had turned an amber color, and was a solid crystallized "mass" of wick. (don't really know what else to call it, but it was slightly disturbing)
Also, I use an EGO-EGO adapter to "mend" the threads when using anything that has to actually screw in with a 510-510 connection. In other words, if it's not an EVOD or similar, it gets the adapter on its threads.
EDIT: I will say, around 3.9-3.8 I notice a significant performance drop. Once it hits 3.7 it's 'meh', especially when I've been vaping at 10-11w.
At that point, I can crank the thing up to 15 and it seems like it's doing what 7-9w would on a fresh battery.
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