Natural Tobaccos - Part Deux

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Jerms

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Only the temp control is a limiter, it's the max temp the coil will reach, not the heat the coil will be running at... You still set your wattage. One of the things Brandon from Evolv mentioned was that wattage ( heat ) and temperature are different attributes.

Well, yes and no. It is temp you'll be running at for the whole vape within 10°. The watts delivered will fluctuate greatly during the vape in order to bring it up to temp quickly and maintain it. I've heard from beta testers that changing the wattage can make subtle changes, but it's largely unimportant, unless you really want a low wattage vape which it can do.
 

Kataphraktos

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Vapor Flask released their DNA40 mod this evening on VapeRev. The stock was gone minutes later.

As usual, I was too late to get one this time. But my Temco Ni200 wire is in the mail. Just a matter of time till I catch a DNA40 to go with it.

Vapor Flask is gorgeous. If you want a less pricey alternative that seems to still be in stock (in red and white only right now), there's bapgood's dual 18650 DNA40. I built one of these when they were available for building in the modder section, and it is tiny for a dual 18650 DNA mod - overall about the size of a Hana.
 

Kataphraktos

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Well, yes and no. It is temp you'll be running at for the whole vape within 10°. The watts delivered will fluctuate greatly during the vape in order to bring it up to temp quickly and maintain it. I've heard from beta testers that changing the wattage can make subtle changes, but it's largely unimportant, unless you really want a low wattage vape which it can do.

Beta testers are saying that watts control vapor production, so you can stealth vape by turning down the watts without losing out on flavor. I just ordered a chip to put it into one of my existing DNA30 mods, and I already received various gauges of Ni200 wire.
 

Jerms

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One more thing about temp control, then I'll stop because this is the NT thread :)

One of the biggest reasons this will take off, especially in an atmosphere of future FDA regulations, is health and safety reasons. Many flavorings, maybe even vg, turn toxic at specific high temperatures. What happens at higher temp is currently being researched in a large study by Dr. Farsalinos. Being able to keep the temp below the zone that creates toxic fumes benefits vaper's health and could effect future FDA regs. Juice makers will be able to list the range a juice is recommended safe to vape at, and their own personal recommendation of what temp they find it tastes best at.

Also, being able to set the temp below the burning point of the wick means no more inhaling cotton/rayon/etc. fumes, even if the wick is dry.

Ok, I'm done, for reals :D . Just excited about this new tech, like many are, which is why it's been derailing many threads the last couple days.
 

Kataphraktos

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One more thing about temp control, then I'll stop because this is the NT thread :)

One of the biggest reasons this will take off, especially in an atmosphere of future FDA regulations, is health and safety reasons. Many flavorings, maybe even vg, turn toxic at specific high temperatures. What happens at higher temp is currently being researched in a large study by Dr. Farsalinos. Being able to keep the temp below the zone that creates toxic fumes benefits vaper's health and could effect future FDA regs. Juice makers will be able to list the range a juice is recommended safe to vape at, and their own personal recommendation of what temp they find it tastes best at.

Also, being able to set the temp below the burning point of the wick means no more inhaling cotton/rayon/etc. fumes, even if the wick is dry.

Ok, I'm done, for reals :D . Just excited about this new tech, like many are, which is why it's been derailing many threads the last couple days.

Considering the potential impact on folks in this thread, I think this topic is relevant, but yeah, we don't want to derail it.

I ordered a board to put in one of my DNA30 mods, mostly so I can try some NETs with this setup and provide some feedback on some of the concepts we've brought up. And, with that, I'll go silent until I have that done.

Anybody in the NY area who wants to give it a try, I'm more than happy to meet up in a vape shop when it is ready so we can get multiple impressions for the NET people.
 

Jerms

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Considering the potential impact on folks in this thread, I think this topic is relevant, but yeah, we don't want to derail it.

I ordered a board to put in one of my DNA30 mods, mostly so I can try some NETs with this setup and provide some feedback on some of the concepts we've brought up. And, with that, I'll go silent until I have that done.

Anybody in the NY area who wants to give it a try, I'm more than happy to meet up in a vape shop when it is ready so we can get multiple impressions for the NET people.
I was just speaking for myself, as all I'm providing is info easily found elsewhere. I'm very much looking forward to further discussion here when some of us get it in our hands to see how it impacts vaping NET, and wondering who else plans on picking up which mods.
 

Vicman

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I was just speaking for myself, as all I'm providing is info easily found elsewhere. I'm very much looking forward to further discussion here when some of us get it in our hands to see how it impacts vaping NET, and wondering who else plans on picking up which mods.

I'm looking forward to it as well. I probably wont be in the first wave of owners but will be putting aside to save up for one. Even if they do not reduce the gunk factor as much as I am thinking they will, it will be nice to have a safer vape in terms of temperature of the liquid is concerned. Although, I really think if the sugar from the tobacco extract is not being overheated, the gunk factor should be lowered considerably. I really can't wait to hear some of the results.
 

MikeNice81

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To put us back on topic. . .

I mixed up five more juices today. I have juice made from MVJ's CAO Black, Captain Black Cherry, 5 Vegas Cask Strength, Borkum Riff Black Cavendish, and Borkum Riff Bourbon Whiskey in the steep box now.

I couldn't hold off so I started some CAO Black in my Mini PT3 with Japanese cotton. The cavendish is very present and seems to be top notch. The casings are a bit indistinguished at this point. What do you expect from a ten minute steep? :p The cocoa does seem to show up in the back of your mouth on the exhale. If you retrohale like a cigar smoker all of the flavors blend together and it is definitely yummy.

ETA:
After nearly 1ml the raspberry becomes much more noticeable on the inhale and exhale. If you inhale just right you get a very sweet and tart raspberry flavor running up the middle of your tongue. It also translates into the room note quite well. My dog is sitting beside my chair taking big sniffs and licking her lips.
 
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sandman97289

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Considering the potential impact on folks in this thread, I think this topic is relevant, but yeah, we don't want to derail it.

I ordered a board to put in one of my DNA30 mods, mostly so I can try some NETs with this setup and provide some feedback on some of the concepts we've brought up. And, with that, I'll go silent until I have that done.

Anybody in the NY area who wants to give it a try, I'm more than happy to meet up in a vape shop when it is ready so we can get multiple impressions for the NET people.

Anxious to know your results. Especially with the gunk factor :D

Sorry for the derail, but I feel that whatever hardware discussion improves the quality of us NET vapers should be relevant. I for one am constantly playing with my hardware whether it's an RDA, RTA, mech or VV/VW just to find that perfect harmony when you can sit back on your porch and say "that's the stuff".
 

boomerdude

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I agree Jerms but I'm going to wait til the technology is not so new. It will have to be a pretty big improvement for me to pop for $189! I love my mechs and haven't used anything else since I quit using cartos. Decent mechs are damn near bulletproof only requiring occasional cleaning after you get them set up to suit you.

It seems to me, so far at least, that a vv/vw device with a kayfun keeps me in my happy place. That may change as the tech moves along but for now all is good.
 

boomerdude

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With heat control, things like volts, watts, resistance, ohm's law, etc., just isn't going to matter anymore. The only reason us advanced users know about this stuff is it's been the only method we've had to control temp, and a very clumsy one at that. Temp control vastly simplifies all that, new users will have no need for ohm's law or knowing the resistance, because it doesn't matter. 400° means 400° no matter your wire gauge, type of coil, tank, dripper, clearo, airflow, vape style, and on.

But.. enough about that, not important here. Just wanted to point out that I think this is exactly what the average user will be using. The tech is complicated, but the application is oh so simple.

I don't know, where's the fun in that? I get a kick out of fooling around with coil making, etc.
 

Jerms

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Received my replacement Stingray X from FT. The must have switched manufacturers as the button pin is too short (easy fix) and the extension tubes aren't as seamless. Still a gorgeous mech. The button is again a wreck, but fixable. In hybrid mode with an 18350 it's tiny, smaller than a KFL.

Overall I'd recommend avoiding the 1:1 Stingray X from FT, but their 1:1 Magma is pretty great! Probably the last mech I'll add to my collection before I join the regulated vaping club.
 

y cherry y

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One more thing about temp control, then I'll stop because this is the NT thread :)

One of the biggest reasons this will take off, especially in an atmosphere of future FDA regulations, is health and safety reasons. Many flavorings, maybe even vg, turn toxic at specific high temperatures. What happens at higher temp is currently being researched in a large study by Dr. Farsalinos. Being able to keep the temp below the zone that creates toxic fumes benefits vaper's health and could effect future FDA regs. Juice makers will be able to list the range a juice is recommended safe to vape at, and their own personal recommendation of what temp they find it tastes best at.

Also, being able to set the temp below the burning point of the wick means no more inhaling cotton/rayon/etc. fumes, even if the wick is dry.

Ok, I'm done, for reals :D . Just excited about this new tech, like many are, which is why it's been derailing many threads the last couple days.

Okay, after buying four lifetime supplies of cotton, now you're telling me I have to buy another lifetime supply of wire?!
 

Jerms

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Okay, after buying four lifetime supplies of cotton, now you're telling me I have to buy another lifetime supply of wire?!
Only if you want to use the temp control function ;)

Good news is nickel is cheaper than Kanthal, which is already cheap. I'm more concerned about the $300 I'll want to spend on a really sexy mod than the $5 lifetime supply of ni200 :laugh:
 

Mazinny

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Received my replacement Stingray X from FT. The must have switched manufacturers as the button pin is too short (easy fix) and the extension tubes aren't as seamless. Still a gorgeous mech. The button is again a wreck, but fixable. In hybrid mode with an 18350 it's tiny, smaller than a KFL.

Overall I'd recommend avoiding the 1:1 Stingray X from FT, but their 1:1 Magma is pretty great! Probably the last mech I'll add to my collection before I join the regulated vaping club.

I have a problem with the Panzer clone i got from fasttech, with the 510 pin being too short ( or sitting too low ). Just wondering if the easy fix you talk about might be same for the 510 pin. Thanks
 

Jerms

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I have a problem with the Panzer clone i got from fasttech, with the 510 pin being too short ( or sitting too low ). Just wondering if the easy fix you talk about might be same for the 510 pin. Thanks
No, the fix for a button pin being too short when screwed down is adding aluminum foil to the hole it screws in.

Whats wrong with your 510 pin, does it not make contact with some atties? Is it a floating pin? Dusty has the FT Panzer so he may know what's up.
 

Mazinny

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No, the fix for a button pin being too short when screwed down is adding aluminum foil to the hole it screws in.

Whats wrong with your 510 pin, does it not make contact with some atties? Is it a floating pin? Dusty has the FT Panzer so he may know what's up.

It was advertised as floating i believe, but definitely isn't. It doesn't make contact with any atties, sits really deep. Only one of my atties has an adjustable pin !

Truth is i don't use my mechs much, but if there is an easy fix, i would do it.
 

Jerms

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It was advertised as floating i believe, but definitely isn't. It doesn't make contact with any atties, sits really deep. Only one of my atties has an adjustable pin !

Truth is i don't use my mechs much, but if there is an easy fix, i would do it.
I'm betting it's a floating pin, just really tight. May need to sand it down if you can work it out. Try freezing the top cap for an hour, it may force out easier that way. I've used a hammer and screwdriver to pop out floating pins that were stuck.
 

sandman97289

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Only if you want to use the temp control function ;)

Good news is nickel is cheaper than Kanthal, which is already cheap. I'm more concerned about the $300 I'll want to spend on a really sexy mod than the $5 lifetime supply of ni200 :laugh:

Check out the new VaporShark rDNA it's $189 for pre-order. I'm a big Vaporshark fan, been using their DNA30 (the small one) for several months now and it's rock solid. They have great customer service as well.
 

Dusty_D

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It was advertised as floating i believe, but definitely isn't. It doesn't make contact with any atties, sits really deep. Only one of my atties has an adjustable pin !

Truth is i don't use my mechs much, but if there is an easy fix, i would do it.


Oh it is a floating pin. I had to take a punch and mallet to it the first few times to get it "lubed up" enough where it now moves without hammering. It's in there tight.
 
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