Need assistance for Buzz Pro
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Ok tried all the above and still no go.
This is what's happening, when I remove the top cap and lift it up then press the button, the led turns blue! But when I put it back on, all red light. So it fires when top cap is not making contact with the body and doesn't when it comes contact with it.
So I'm..
This is what's happening, when I remove the top cap and lift it up then press the button, the led turns blue! But when I put it back on, all red light. So it fires when top cap is not making contact with the body and doesn't when it comes contact with it.
So I'm..
Sounds like something is shorting out when you put the cap on. Is the red wire able to rotate freely around it's tiny mounting screw as you screw the cap back on or does it twist with the cap?
I'm with mist on this one. There is something touching that positive connection causing a short. More than likely it's something in the center post. Try loosening the screw on top and then blowing that area out real good. It could even be liquid.Ok tried all the above and still no go.
This is what's happening, when I remove the top cap and lift it up then press the button, the led turns blue! But when I put it back on, all red light. So it fires when top cap is not making contact with the body and doesn't when it comes contact with it.
So I'm..
Looks that way. Yes, the red wire is able to rotate freely around the tiny mounting screw.
The center screw is the positive. If the little black washer below it is missing/broken, or a little bit of something else caught, providing a path to the outside edge, that would cause a short when it is fired.
Ok tried all the above and still no go.
This is what's happening, when I remove the top cap and lift it up then press the button, the led turns blue! But when I put it back on, all red light. So it fires when top cap is not making contact with the body and doesn't when it comes contact with it.
So I'm..
I've had this same occurance, more than once maybe. I had to tighten up "a bit" the tiny screw underneath the top cap, so the wire made solid contact. It only made good contact when I removed(moved) the topcap.
The screw can NOT be tight, as the wire must be able to rotate as the topcap is put on and off.
OK Marc ( sent you a PM on this ) use the OHM setting on the meter set it to 200 ohms , measure between the center post and the threads of the top cap it should be OPEN or no reading , if there is a reading we need to disassemble the top cap to check for metal in there .
2. if it reads OPEN then put the top cap on and measure it again on the 20k ohm setting , it should read 11-12k ohms 11,000 etc.
2. if it reads OPEN then put the top cap on and measure it again on the 20k ohm setting , it should read 11-12k ohms 11,000 etc.
I don't know how far you've gotten with this problem........but I had this problem with my original buzz & my husband had to put a tiny o ring inside the underside of the top cap.
This is so the positive lead won't touch the walls of the Buzz. (body is negative, wire going to the atty/underside is positive, if you have anything touching that wire you ground it out)
If i'm outta line here, just tell me, but my husband says this is what he did when I had the same problem with my original buzz.
This is so the positive lead won't touch the walls of the Buzz. (body is negative, wire going to the atty/underside is positive, if you have anything touching that wire you ground it out)
If i'm outta line here, just tell me, but my husband says this is what he did when I had the same problem with my original buzz.
It could have come apart and he lost a part ?? I am not sure , waiting to hear back from him .
I had thought about doing that as well. I was thinking it would further prevent liquid from getting inside the unit.
I've managed to make this problem retreat for a little bit but, I'm not sure I solved it. I got mine last night and after I charged the batteries, it worked fine the rest of the night. I'm not taking it to work yet. When I came home tonight, I got exactly the same symptoms. As long as the top cap wasn't in contact with the barrel, I got the blue light. Even touch the edge to the barrel, I didn't.
I took the batteries out and took an ohmmeter to it and it read a dead short between the center screw and the threads. I took the screw out of the wire and took the top completely off. Then I got a wide open reading between the center screw and the threads. Out of curiousity, I checked between the end of the wire and the barrel. and got 11.6 Kohms. Put it back together and I got 11.6 Kohms between the center screw and the threads and I got a blue light with the batteries in. Put an atty on it and it worked fine. However, it stopped firing again. It may just be a fluke but, I could get it to fire, if I turned the voltage down. Then I worked it back up and it's working again. No idea whether that will continue. I'm using a 2.5 ohm 901 at 4.7V. I'm not really cranking it up.
Mike just don't tell me I voided my warranty! What size is that little bitty screw? I almost lost it!
I took the batteries out and took an ohmmeter to it and it read a dead short between the center screw and the threads. I took the screw out of the wire and took the top completely off. Then I got a wide open reading between the center screw and the threads. Out of curiousity, I checked between the end of the wire and the barrel. and got 11.6 Kohms. Put it back together and I got 11.6 Kohms between the center screw and the threads and I got a blue light with the batteries in. Put an atty on it and it worked fine. However, it stopped firing again. It may just be a fluke but, I could get it to fire, if I turned the voltage down. Then I worked it back up and it's working again. No idea whether that will continue. I'm using a 2.5 ohm 901 at 4.7V. I'm not really cranking it up.
Mike just don't tell me I voided my warranty!
What size is that little bitty screw? I almost lost it!There is somethind shorting the centerpin to the cap. It's either debris or a broken isolator. Something like that. I get rhe same thing if I put this one adapter on because it shorts the center pin to the cap. I've also had it happen because of juice.
It sounds like you know what your doing though.
It sounds like you know what your doing though.
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You can get shorts from debris and some juices lately , you should read between 11-12k ohms from center pin to the top cap this is normal ( change the wheel and this reading will change )
clean the top cap center section real good . also make sure the bottom cap is TIGHT ! they do come loose sometimes .
clean the top cap center section real good . also make sure the bottom cap is TIGHT ! they do come loose sometimes .
That's consistent with what I read on the ohmmeter. I didn't play with the voltage setting when I was checking resistance but, it makes sense. I haven't fooled with pulling anything apart but, I did have it quit on me a couple times since the last post. A little tap made it work again. To me, that says short somewhere. Both caps are tight.
I'll pull apart the top cap and make sure everything's clean around the center screw when I get home tomorrow.
Mike, I'm willing to take that screw on the side out and see what I can find but, you're going to have to say that's okay.
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Do you have good spring pressure on the bottom cap ?? bounce it in your hand this tends to clean the contacts inside , the side screw is the ground screw it should be tight
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