New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[ricklynchcore]

there aint no way i'm gonna take the cap off to switch it out though

I know what you mean, the first time I got it running right I drained the tank and dreaded opening for fear of messing it up. Trust me however, as your skill and confidence grow, you'll be pulling off cap and tweaking without so much as an eye bat. I've had my DID for going on 6 weeks, I have built 5 or 6 wicks, and probably 200 coils, I kid you not, all within the first 2 weeks. Now am on the 14th day of my current coil and barely have had to tweak at all. I guess what I am saying is when you get your build right, it becomes a very stable device. My thinking is the wick is like a cast Iron pan. When seasoned correctly, nothing falters, nothing sticks. My wicks are very seasoned now. I have played musical chairs with them in my DID and current coil without any shorts or hot spots. I have even driven my wick to bottom just to see what happens, and get no shorts. I tell you, I cannot use my past equipment for the DID has totally ruined any appetite for carts, tanks, or even dripping. So keep at it and be assured the device does settle in with practice and patience.
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[ricklynchcore]

As I have not seen anyone post this yet for Tybin, I thought i'd just throw in my 2 cents here too.

As Jim has stated somewhere in this thread make sure that your bottom coil lays flat on the base until it gets to the wick hole and only then start moving up and around the wick, in other words ground it as long as possible.

On a personal note, i used to get a lot of hotspots near the top-coil until i read this and brought it in to practice myself.

That is a good point, your right, rarely mentioned!

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[ricklynchcore]

Agree the key is to get it as dark as possible. I don't have a torch. I use my BBQ. I use the side pot burner. Keep glowing it red hot Look closely at it while its in the flame for the hairs Cut them off. It's not so much how many times. As when it is nice a evenly burnt.

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Those stray hairs were one of my real problems when I first started building. I now always check my wick very closely because they can redevelop as I twist, remove, or adjust wick within coil. They can be difficult to see, and can cause potent hot spots.

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[fuzzione]

Tybin, I must say, following your progress here is like watching a Rocky movie. I find myself cheering for the underdog against the DID heavyweight champion. Looks like you're about ready to administer the knock-out punch and yell 'Adrian!!'

 

[classwife]

Tybin, I must say, following your progress here is like watching a Rocky movie. I find myself cheering for the underdog against the DID heavyweight champion. Looks like you're about ready to administer the knock-out punch and yell 'Adrian!!'

It is very exciting !!!

 

[rolbyroland]

1/2 of one of the sheets Jim sends (~40mm x ~50mm) rolled to just fit in the wick hole (using the allen key provided works pretty well as a rolling tool). That means they ship with 8 wicks (4x325 & 4x400) and since wicks are reusable and last about 6months, thats ~2 years worth...

(more cool wick info on the DIDex)

Edit: actually thats ~2 years of 325 and ~2years of 400, so a total of ~4 years free wicking

Thanks for information!

 

[Horseman9]

I know what you mean, the first time I got it running right I drained the tank and dreaded opening for fear of messing it up. Trust me however, as your skill and confidence grow, you'll be pulling off cap and tweaking without so much as an eye bat. I've had my DID for going on 6 weeks, I have built 5 or 6 wicks, and probably 200 coils, I kid you not, all within the first 2 weeks. Now am on the 14th day of my current coil and barely have had to tweak at all. I guess what I am saying is when you get your build right, it becomes a very stable device. My thinking is the wick is like a cast Iron pan. When seasoned correctly, nothing falters, nothing sticks. My wicks are very seasoned now. I have played musical chairs with them in my DID and current coil without any shorts or hot spots. I have even driven my wick to bottom just to see what happens, and get no shorts. I tell you, I cannot use my past equipment for the DID has totally ruined any appetite for carts, tanks, or even dripping. So keep at it and be assured the device does settle in with practice and patience.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

+1 gazillion on that. I have several BF mods just gathering dust

 

[ricklynchcore]

Vaping 100% vg
Hey, anyone vaping 100% vg in their DID setup? I am thinking of trying an organic maker who's specialty is 100 vg. I am using 400 ss mesh right now with 50/50 vg,pg ratio and it works tremendously. Just wondering if I have to go to 325 mesh with 100% vg, or will the 400 mesh still work.

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[muddstar]

Wow, that's a lot of work, is there a break or lunch included.hahaha

There is confusion on your oxidizing steps, Tiff.
Try this next time:
1. take a half sheet.
2. torch it til turns red for a good 20-30 seconds.
3. fold the far edge, crease the fold tight like a piece of paper you're going to tear.
4. roll the non-folded edge over towards the folded edge. Using the Allen or a straightened Medium/lg paperclip or lg saftey pin to roll it on.
5. Cut one end 45% reinsert the pin, and torch the dry rolled wick.
6. Dunk the hot wick in distilled water.
7. roll or pat with paper towel.
8. Repeat the Torch/Dunk/Pat 3 times. Making sure to burn the ends real good too.
9. Juice the wick
10. Light the wick with Bic Lighter
11. Let the fire go out naturally.
12. Repeat the Juice/light 3 x
13. Lucky number 13!! Insert into wick into your pre coiled coils OR wrap your coils onto the wick and then insert it all OR insert the wick and coil it.
13.b. Optional is to wrap a tiny cut of tobacco paper around the top part of the wick before coiling.

I hope this helps to clarify the mesh steps.
Scott, Igetcha69 shows the oxidization steps on some of his earlier videos. I believe he now uses the Jack Frost method, (step 1 & 2) skips steps 3-8 and jumps to step 9-13.
The majority of us just added step 1 & 2 to the rest of the list, to assure success. I over do it, and am happy. ElfStone and Scott under do it now and are happy. We'll get you happy too, Tiff, it's just a matter of getting the steps in order for you. Hang in there

 

[martinc]

Thank you my friends for the fantastic support you are giving me and the DID products I make. I try very hard
to keep up with the many orders. No time to sleep or eat but always time to vape the mini DID.(Do not jelus and read the rest of the post) lol


As a small way to show my appreciation I would like to make a lotary in this thread for my existing customers.
Please make a new post here showing your order number (or numbers) and in approximately 2 weeks I will randomly
pick an order number as the winner of the contest.

The winner will receive 1 complete miniDID kit. Yes, the miniDIDs are very close now!

I want to thank you again, my ECF friends, for all your support and good words. Thank you also to the people that helping others new to genesis world in this thread when I cannot more of the times find the time to do that myself. It makes me too happy that you are enjoying what I make for you.


PLEASE COPY THE POST PUT YOUR ORDER NUMBERS UNDER THE LAST ONE AND PASTE AGAIN

001

Order #309

 

[overall]

I use scissors to cut my mesh, I precut a load of kanthal wire and use scissors for that also. I use small wire cutters on the coil on the DID. I found good small ones in the craft section of Walmart.

This may be a bit of an odd question but I haven't seen any mention of it yet. Perhaps it is common knowledge for most but I lack common sense. What are you guys using to cut the ss mesh and the wire when building the atomizer wick and coil? Would my thread snips that I use at work be sufficient?

 

[martinc]

Vaping 100% vg
Hey, anyone vaping 100% vg in their DID setup? I am thinking of trying an organic maker who's specialty is 100 vg. I am using 400 ss mesh right now with 50/50 vg,pg ratio and it works tremendously. Just wondering if I have to go to 325 mesh with 100% vg, or will the 400 mesh still work.

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Might want to even try 200 with real (no water or vodka) VG

 

[Uma]

Wow, that's a lot of work, is there a break or lunch included.hahaha

haha, it reads like more work than it is in actuality.

1. oxidize dry, fold the edge, roll er up
2. oxidize 3x with the torch, dunk n dry
3. prime 3x with juice and bic lighter (no dunks!)
4. add coils one way or another.

Ha! See! It can be simpilified once every single step is clear.

edit: already have to come back and clarify step 2. by adding the word "torch"
edit: included this into the prior post.

 

[tybin]

I vape all vg juice in my rebuildables. I don't think you have to really switch unless you choose a super thick juice. Even with that, you can just add a couple drops of distilled water to the tank and not lose flavor.

Vaping 100% vg
Hey, anyone vaping 100% vg in their DID setup? I am thinking of trying an organic maker who's specialty is 100 vg. I am using 400 ss mesh right now with 50/50 vg,pg ratio and it works tremendously. Just wondering if I have to go to 325 mesh with 100% vg, or will the 400 mesh still work.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[tybin]

incidentally, "Switched" sells pre-seasoned wicks at jr custom turnings. -no idea how much he charges for shipping to the us

 

[Scottibones]

incidentally, "Switched" sells pre-seasoned wicks at jr custom turnings. -no idea how much he charges for shipping to the us

Well that's just taking all the fun out of owning a genesis style atty.

 

[martinc]

Heh,I dont dunk mine anymore...waste of time really.
Start with an empty tank

1-Pre-oxydize the piece of mesh
2-roll it
3-3xPG burn
4-piece of rolling paper (1 layer) on top (1cm high +/-)
5-Coil the mutha
6-burn paper (pulse your switch)
7-fill tank

Make sure to leave room around the hole or no wicking will occur (at least not properly)
Rolling the mesh as per std procedure,fold 1cm then roll it finishing the roll on the folded part (so no extra fine filaments make shorts anywhere,clean edge)

easy

 

[tybin]

I thought that actually caused shorts I learned you ought to angle it up 45 degrees?

As I have not seen anyone post this yet for Tybin, I thought i'd just throw in my 2 cents here too.

As Jim has stated somewhere in this thread make sure that your bottom coil lays flat on the base until it gets to the wick hole and only then start moving up and around the wick, in other words ground it as long as possible.

On a personal note, i used to get a lot of hotspots near the top-coil until i read this and brought it in to practice myself.

 

[Uma]

Well shoot, I went in search of a nice Lunch jpg and came up empty. Sorry. No lunch breaks today folks!

 

[fuzzione]

I thought that actually caused shorts I learned you ought to angle it up 45 degrees?

From Jim's post 2603:

"I have to say one more time and be clear!
I am not an expert
many DID owners are much much better on a setup!

Now IMO
what I would do here is
a.the wire sould be lie down (grounded) until the start of the mesh hole then I go up and round
b. I would push the mesh exactly up and down from the hot spot with a toothpick
and that's it!
I love fotos! help a lot to everybody!"

I do it this way also and experience good results. I believe the shorter bottom run to the coil this method creates may serve to reduce hot spot and short potential. My coil is wrapped counter-clockwise starting from the outside of the ground screw. Works for me.