New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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Cloud Wizard

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Thanks for that. I know it is me and not The DID, but reading your message is probably the most helpful info I've ever gotten. I view The DID as an instrument: It takes practice! And defeat is only possible if given into. Thanks for sending us a commiserative shout-out!

You can do it Mr. Mann. ricklynchcore has it spot on, just takes some breaking in and patience. Key for me has always been getting a bullet proof wick (even crappy coils work on a good wick). Did I read earlier that you are using a blow torch (meaning acetylene)? I use a butane torch (made for soldering) from Home Depot. Blue flames don't cause the kind of carbon build up you mentioned.
 

yankeebobo

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I am reading some frustration from the new users, and many questions that have been answered many times before. Let me just say, don't over think, don't sweat the lack of taste, don't even sweat the shorts. We, who have been using this device for some time, have had the same problem early on. You will catch on. Just keep using and tweaking. It is NOT a design problem with the DID. It is just the learning curve. The first two weeks, I kid you not, I built 200 hundred coils. My wife says the adjectives coming out of my mouth were some of the most offensive she ever heard me say, and that is after 37 years of marriage. I complained about everything, including the country of Greece, (Jim, I was a slow learner, little did I know of the pleasure ahead your device has given me :) However, in the following 4 weeks, I have built only 2 coils, and am still using the second double wick I made. I am just trying to reassure you, it will click in one day, and you will know it! In the mean time just keep experimenting with everything to find the sweet spot. I thought it was still a pretty good vape even with shorts and juice exploding sideways when I had my problems. I am commiserating with you and not trying to be preachy. I wish all to find that perfect spot, which I know you will, and hope your early frustrations vanish quickly. If I can do anything else to help, please don't hesitate to contact me. Btw, Rwechsler is going to do a video, and he is an absolute expert in these matters. Make sure to watch his instructions, I know his vid will be loaded with great pointers.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

THAT is the day I look forward to. I tossed a few colorful statements but not many. I almost expected a slow start.
 

Mr.Mann

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You can do it Mr. Mann. ricklynchcore has it spot on, just takes some breaking in and patience. Key for me has always been getting a bullet proof wick (even crappy coils work on a good wick). Did I read earlier that you are using a blow torch (meaning acetylene)? I use a butane torch (made for soldering) from Home Depot. Blue flames don't cause the kind of carbon build up you mentioned.

I am using a propane torch. Is that different? It is supposed to be for soldering and small jobs.
 

overall

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I found the same thing if I torched for too long. I tried to do an extended torch ....not as long as 3 minutes though. Too much torching makes the wick become brittle in my experience. I am back to my torch and quench just like I did in the beginning 4 times. I haven't been brave enough to torch briefly and wrap.
Nothing but torch for ~3 minutes.
Picked slightly at the edge and it broke and spewed debris.
ZVeBb.jpg
 

Cloud Wizard

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I am using a propane torch. Is that different? It is supposed to be for soldering and small jobs.

Shouldn't be a problem, propane and butane burn about the same temp. Don't need to torch for extended periods of time, simply bringing it up the orange glow temp and moving to a new spot is sufficient.
 

yankeebobo

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View attachment 124920

Started at 3.0 ohm. Removed one coil at a time after a bit (2 coils total gone) to achieve 1.8 ohms. Vapor shot up as I lowered. Flavor and throat hit? Meh. I guess it's just time to vape away and break it in. I'll see what a day brings.

This was about 6 attempted coils later since yesterday's arrival. But the ground doesn't sit flush and that gave me part of my problem. I actually wrapped a full coil around both ground and positive this time. Hence my success.

Oh. Those brass nuts? All up high to prevent moving. Nothing down low.
 

ricklynchcore

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View attachment 124920

Started at 3.0 ohm. Removed one coil at a time after a bit (2 coils total gone) to achieve 1.8 ohms. Vapor shot up as I lowered. Flavor and throat hit? Meh. I guess it's just time to vape away and break it in. I'll see what a day brings.

This was about 6 attempted coils later since yesterday's arrival. But the ground doesn't sit flush and that gave me part of my problem. I actually wrapped a full coil around both ground and positive this time. Hence my success.

Oh. Those brass nuts? All up high to prevent moving. Nothing down low.

One note about your keeping all nuts high. Be careful of this. The lowest nut must sit tight against the bottom to stop juice rolling down center positive pole and causing leaks and oxidation of brass pole. Many use a 4 nut setup to accomplish what you have done. Watch Jim's initial vid, he snugs down bottom nut with pliers. This is purposefully done.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
 

Scottibones

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All the flame oxidizing problems leads me to a question. Has anybody tried to chemically oxidize the wick? It may not be ideal (or even safe) but chlorine oxidizes stainless quite well. The question would be if you could remove all of the residual chlorine with a distilled rinse and eliquid soak and burn?
 

overall

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I have been experimenting with different wicks and coils just for fun.
Stainless steel mesh I like 270 size, wicks a treat with any juice but seems to be the most temperamental with shorts. 325 I also use and it is the easier to coil ....I have the 400 but haven't messed with it because I am using DIY VG without thinning. I will get around to it.
Coils
32 awg reliable but a little finnicky to set up use low power to dry burn and test because high power will pop the coil quickly.
30 awg by far the friendliest for beginners - thicker wire tolerates the manipulation better, hard to pop with a short.
33 awg - better be good at wrapping coils because this wire pops really easily. It will also short easily on the mesh if the oxidation is poor. -BUT it shines when used as a double twisted coil. I love this coil for my lower voltage devices ...low resistance forgiving coil, hard to pop.
Silica - plain works well but tricky to get into the tank. Certainly easier to get a stable coil.
My favorite is mesh with silica wick up the center then wrapped around the top of the mesh -I separate the silica threads and use a single strand threaded through a sewing needle- looks a bit like a Q-tip but only a single layer thick. Because the coil is wrapped around the silica is is very forgiving and wicks like crazy - also leak proof.

I will experiment more soon....I have all the DIDs vaping perfectly right now and hate to mess with them.

I am vaping apricot as I type thinking to myself .....darn this juice is good.
 

yankeebobo

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One note about your keeping all nuts high. Be careful of this. The lowest nut must sit tight against the bottom to stop juice rolling down center positive pole and causing leaks and oxidation of brass pole. Many use a 4 nut setup to accomplish what you have done. Watch Jim's initial vid, he snugs down bottom nut with pliers. This is purposefully done.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

Looks like I'll be adding the forth nut then. This is why I generally order "spare parts" with something I don't know well enough. Thanks for that alert.
 

Cloud Wizard

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All the flame oxidizing problems leads me to a question. Has anybody tried to chemically oxidize the wick? It may not be ideal (or even safe) but chlorine oxidizes stainless quite well. The question would be if you could remove all of the residual chlorine with a distilled rinse and eliquid soak and burn?

Oooh, I thought about that too. There are various acidic baths that will render SS non-conductive, but I looked up the MSDS sheets on each of the possible particulate byproducts and decided torching is fine by me. There's even some high temp paints for motors (like header paint) which I thought may work on the coils instead (then making the wick non-conductive would be irrelevant), but really just couldn't get past the nasty stuff that goes into products like that.
 

Lazerrred

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Hi All,

Got my DID in yesterday's mail. I ordered the clear tank with it. First coil I made had hot spot in top wrap. Second coil I made--broke of the wire too soon before adjusting it just right to make sure the wraps were evenly spaced around the wick. Third coil vaporizes well, but can't get enough vapor when vaped. It looks like Jim's video when watching it fire without the top mouthpiece on, but I screw on the mouthpiece and drip tip and hardly any vapor gets produced. Also, doesn't taste all that good. Break in time?
Your wick maybe coming into contact with the top. Wick should be no higher than the top post.
 

yankeebobo

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View attachment 124944

3rd DID done. Ordered two DIDs and some parts. I think i git carried away on parts because i had enough to assemble a 3rd DID. Clear window only on this one though.

I think my few struggles were minimal because of reading all of your posts in this thread. Together with the numerous vids both here and out there, I believe I worked through them quite well.

Thanks everyone! :toast: :vapor:
 

Shadowcat

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Hi guys! I have had my DID for a month already and it had been a long struggling encounter. May I mention that this is my first genesis style atty. Initially, I was getting alot of the earlier mentioned problems of coils popping at the top, hot spots on some coils, lots of vapor but minimal flavor, etc. etc. BUT, after going thru this entire thread, I was finally able to perfect my DID assembly.

To all you guys who have contributed to this thread with your ever valuable advices and encounters, I am so very grateful. You have helped a ton!

To Jim, I initially wanted to get myself the Zen, BUT not anymore. I am one happy vaper with your awesome device. Thanks a bunch.
 

Striker911

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My pleasure! In my setup video, I'm going to film the actual tutorial using 32g kanthal a-1, just b/c it's the most commonly used resistance wire, though I'll edit in a segment at the end where I demonstrate a 30g kanthal a-1 or a 32g twisted coil, which is my personal preference, to show off the DID's maximum vapor production output capabilities ;)
Really cant wait to see it. While my set up is good for a beginner, I could always use an even better set up. No doubt here that I will learn a thing or two. Sure everyone will. :toast:
 

PlacentaParty

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All the flame oxidizing problems leads me to a question. Has anybody tried to chemically oxidize the wick? It may not be ideal (or even safe) but chlorine oxidizes stainless quite well. The question would be if you could remove all of the residual chlorine with a distilled rinse and eliquid soak and burn?
My dad is a chemist and he is going to help me set up the did in his lab so I can use a Bunsen burner and whatnot. I'll ask him about the merits/risks of oxidizing the wick by chemical means and report back to you. We won't be able to work on it until Sunday so it may be a few days before I have an answer.
 

CyberDj

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Looks like I'll be adding the forth nut then. This is why I generally order "spare parts" with something I don't know well enough. Thanks for that alert.

Just be careful how strong you are with the lowar brass screw. If it is too tight it will push the plastik insulator into the base of the top part creating a lot of short issues. It should be firm, but keeping the plastik about 1mm out of the base.
 
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