Serial numbers are cool. They kinda make it seem like your DID was made for you. Would love to have #001....
New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
- Thread starter Jim Damianidis
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I feel you. Not even considering that the DID is an amazing thing in and of itself, having something that says (the initials and logo of) Metal Madness on it is completely heavy metal. Tattoos, anyone?So is anyone else looking forward to having a serial number and logo engraved on the regular DID top caps? Don't know why it means so much to me, but it does! Maybe it seems more personalized with the serial number, and the logo adds a bit of flare! Though it is nice to have one of the original DID's from the first run
My girlfriend already thinks I've lost my mind with this vaping hobby, I can't even begin to imagine what she'd think if I plastered the Metal Madness logo on my body ha!
I feel you. Not even considering that the DID is an amazing thing in and of itself, having something that says (the initials and logo of) Metal Madness on it is completely heavy metal. Tattoos, anyone?
I hear ya. My wife was really supportive when I quit smoking, but started doing the double take when little packages started showing up all the time. I fixed that problem by buying her a new car. Now I'm allowed to order what ever I want
You could make it discreet.
I've actually thought about it. I know some people who are handy with a tattoo gun... But that's just money taken away from my next Metal Madness purchase. 
i have been waiting a long time for jim to give me the production numbers of my DIDs so i can get the numbers etched on them.mine are lower then 300
I thought my DID set up was pretty awesome but today, after looking at the coil, I decided to pinch the top of the wick just a little bit and wow, I daresay it is just about perfect for me right now
I thought my DID set up was pretty awesome but today, after looking at the coil, I decided to pinch the top of the wick just a little bit and wow, I daresay it is just about perfect for me right now
I pinched it too much by accident a few days ago, it kind of stopped the air flow, almost no draw after and no flavor, had to re-do a new wick/coil, that thing is fragile !
I'm taking a break from trying to get my did up and running. Frustration is setting in. I'll get it eventually. Wish I had more time to practice but I am working 58 hours a week and have kids. Right now I am on coil attempt # 4 and is reading .9 ohms on my provari but when I fire it the coil glows where it is screwed into the nuts and after a second or two of firing it the wick catches on fire. I get a lot of e1 and e2 errors which makes sense because there is an obvious short. Try nudging the wire wraps to no avail.
Is Jim going to find out your DID #? I thought if we buy the new cap, it will just sport whatever number available, not retroactively matched to your actual DID.
Keep at it, when I first got my DID, I used up all the kanthal Jim included in 1 setting and still didn't have a decent working setup. Fortunately I had ordered more kanthal so after a few days, I can see improvement with each and then it seem like I suddenly "gets it" and wrapping a coil has been easy ever since.
Good thing I am set on wire. I have 200ft of 32 kanthal, 100 ft of 30 kanthal and 100 ft of 32 nichcrome.
Only time it happened to me was when I tried the rolling paper trick, since then I stopped doing that and no more fire. Rolling paper are very optional, any rebuildable atomizer can work just as good without any.
Didn't do the rolling paper. I oxidized my wick with a Bunsen burner and did the juice quench. I'm thinking about making coil after coil until it works
Blazer GB2001 Self-Igniting Butane Micro-Torch:Amazon:Industrial & Scientific
I'm thinking about ordering this torch for the did so I don't have to go to my dad's lab to use his burners. It looks super heavy duty. I want something that will last.
I'm thinking about ordering this torch for the did so I don't have to go to my dad's lab to use his burners. It looks super heavy duty. I want something that will last.
I feel your pain friend but keep at it just watch rwechsler vids and plug away. Also if possible check your ohms on a variable voltage device but use a mechanical mod to use it seems to work better. I had same frustrations with it on the VMax but on my BAM worked like a trooper. Should get a second to practice only on a VMax until I can perfect that and as someone said earlier once I've done that I should be good on any device!! I am going to try 30 gauge Kanthal next see if its easier then 32!!!
Good Luck
Good Luck
Mate it's normal that what happened with me as well for like 4 days E1 , E2 & E8 on my Prov2 but what I did in the end is
I take it off "the DID" and I just take all the part off and I re-build it from the beginning , the most Important thing man that when you setup be sure that you warp the tank so tight , I note that when you take off the DID from Prov2 some time it's move the tank head with it I hope that u get what I mean so be sure that all the part of it just warp and closed so tight . Then build the mesh again and don’t let the mesh to touch the base of tank. in the end when all is read start with low Voltage on Prov2 and keep spoil liquid on the mesh for like 10 mins. after that try to use it and up the V.
Hope that I explain it fine and sorry for my language
Yesterday I had 5 attempts with no success. Hot spots all around, popping wires, burnt fast etc. Then finally the 6th worked and is still working like a champ. Two things I found:
- I don not know whether juice is conductive or not, but when the top is dry there are less shorts (this might be a coincident only).
- As I tried around everything I realized that if I move the center pole around shorts start to go away. Then I dissembled my DID and realized that the center pole was a bit bended. Is it possible that it touches the metal tube inside creating shorts?
- I don not know whether juice is conductive or not, but when the top is dry there are less shorts (this might be a coincident only).
- As I tried around everything I realized that if I move the center pole around shorts start to go away. Then I dissembled my DID and realized that the center pole was a bit bended. Is it possible that it touches the metal tube inside creating shorts?
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