New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
- Thread starter Jim Damianidis
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Got my Mini today ( # 0123, pretty cool) (in OZ) Had it going well pretty soon after delivery. I Jack Frosted a new wick for it.
I have been at Gennies for 8 or 9 months. So don't be discouraged if at first you don't succeed.
Great vape!
RC
I have been at Gennies for 8 or 9 months. So don't be discouraged if at first you don't succeed.
Great vape!
RC
Party and cyber. Yeah. That wick can't touch anything down there. Not the bottom and not the center post.
Party if you only knew how much cursing I went through during about a two week period....
There's a wick touching bottom, a wick touching center post, a coil touching brass lower nut, juice conducting, I was pulling my hair for two weeks. A few feet of wire, a half dozen to dozen wicks.
And one day, you realize wait a second, it's supposed to....... And you have your moment. Hang in there. I've done some other genesis styles before. This DID is worth the fight. It'll pay.
I think my advice would be to go SLOW, try and take mental notes, and as you're ready to swear or throw it, put it down and come back tomorrow. Once your frustrated, you will miss everything you're supposed to get.
Party if you only knew how much cursing I went through during about a two week period....
There's a wick touching bottom, a wick touching center post, a coil touching brass lower nut, juice conducting, I was pulling my hair for two weeks. A few feet of wire, a half dozen to dozen wicks.
And one day, you realize wait a second, it's supposed to....... And you have your moment. Hang in there. I've done some other genesis styles before. This DID is worth the fight. It'll pay.
I think my advice would be to go SLOW, try and take mental notes, and as you're ready to swear or throw it, put it down and come back tomorrow. Once your frustrated, you will miss everything you're supposed to get.
If anyone gets a satin version could you please post some good, clear pics so we can see the finish?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Well I think I might have finally did it! Made sure wick wasn't touching bottom or center post. Tighenend the nuts down good. Played with the coil a bit. My ohms changed from 1.0 or .9 to 1.8 and the entire coil glows bright. Now I'll have to put liquid back in and hope for the best. Best coil glow I have gotten yet.
I DID try the rolling paper method and it works perfectly. No visible hot spots for 16sec on my provari. Vapor is A+ on 1.7ohms 
Here's what I'm using (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...keyword=benzomatic&storeId=10051#.UDtcqULi5UM) It says $25 on the Home Depot site, but I managed to get it $20 on sale. I have one of the little pen styles too, but the one-handed operation of a self-ignoter is easier for me.
Almost guaranteed. If you have a 1.8ohm coil and it suddenly drops to .9, the wich dropped or shifted to touch bottom or center. That's something that I've had happen more times than not. And usually it's when I accidentally "tap" the wick while putting cap back on.
So the wick needs to be suspended,held up by the wire contacts?Anyone try to put a little silaca wick or cotton on the bottom of wick.I also thought it was suppose to touch the bottom when i seen a post of someone saying cut a 45 degree angle at bottom to get juice up better.
Wick should be isolated from any SS tank parts (top/bottom, post and cap). Folks have tried wrapping in cotton, silica, paper, all kinds of things. Best thing I've found is to completely oxidize it. If the wick is non-conductive, the rest become non-issues. bottom, cap and post can be easily done by fitting (~1mm off bottom, cut wick even to top of center post, keep it straight). For wick wrapping area and inside tank top, oxidizing works best for me (torch, torch, torch). When I roll a wick, it fits in the wick hole with a little bit of friction so it's held in place, but can move easily.
I do the 45 deg cut at the bottom, but it seems more to help wicking (lets the bubbles out of the wick easier) than cutting down on shorts. Other thing that helps with wicks is to trim off any loose SS "hairs" when makng a new wick.
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Further coil and wick talk: One thing I have also noted for those with shorts, make sure when you are creating and oxidizing your wick, you include in your burn the the very top and bottom of wick. I will usually shift torch to be facing the fill hole of the wick dead on, and often burn away tiny hairs coming off this area. If they wont burn away, Ill use a scissor to shave them off. A single stray hair can reach the bottom of the tank and cause intermittent, drive you crazy, hard to see shorts. Also, I keep a long needle around in case the top of wick shifts towards the outside, and the bottom contacts the center pole. I insert the needle all the way through the installed wick, (side benefit is it clears out the center tube area of wick in case juice has congealed and is slowing down wicking,) and wiggle or adjust it back into place. Can usually make slight vertical adjustments without disturbing the coil much. Make sure if you needle adjust, you also recheck and secure the nuts. My coils are lasting into the weeks now with only slight adjustments required from time to time. Have noticed might need an adjustment after very sharp physical movement or heavy vibration, but for the most part coil and wick adjustments have faded into a rarely required minor irritant. Stability and low maintenance have taken over my DID. I rarely clean it other than the occasional paper towel wipe down, or dry coil burn when the tank gets close to empty. I have been running my current coil for 2 weeks, and prior coil for 3 to 4 weeks.
Completely concur, 97% of everything working right is the wick oxidation. Its that sweet spot. I like a good grey, not black wick. I use to burn the thing until it just about disintegrated into dust, thinking this is what is required. Now, I just with intentional thoroughness, jack frost until I have a complete grey wick. Usually, with my torch in its hottest flame area, I go over the mesh 3 to 4 times, roll, make sure to burn top and bottoms, and clean off any stray hairs, juice soak, burn, juice soak, burn, and go for it. Have had few if any problems with this method. Ohms are stable when I do a read, and wick lasts a heck of long time.
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Thanks cloud and ricky i've yet to get one but i'm getting one soon and trying to make sure i get it correct.At the time i use carto tanks and i know even with those when not used wright the results suck but when you do things wright all is good.
So as long as you oxidize it well burn it up good you should not have these issues even if it touches the bottom.I plan on using the burners on my stove for oxidizing i always had great results with the stove burners on ce2 stuff when i used them.
So as long as you oxidize it well burn it up good you should not have these issues even if it touches the bottom.I plan on using the burners on my stove for oxidizing i always had great results with the stove burners on ce2 stuff when i used them.
Cool! I do the same, but am still wrapping my coils (on my trusty Home Depot pick tool) before installing the wick. Sounds silly, but I like the coil perfectly round and equal spaced. I'm using the @RWeschler thin walled wick and I find that I mangle the wick if I try and wrap on the wick. It also makes it so I get the perfect contact without being too tight. Sometimes I'll get a little shorting from scraping the wick when I twist it in, but after seasoning the wick with juice a slight twist of the wick clears it up right away.
I wish I had a gas stove, best cooking... Anything "blue" flame works (nice and clean burning). Once you DID figured out the DID, there's nothing better.
Ive never tried to oxidize with a stove, but I know others have. I use to smoke cigars so I use an old micro torch. I know, reading this thread must scare the heck out of people who have yet to receive their DIDs, hundreds of methods and suggestions seem to suggest this is rocket science, but be reassured. This thread is full to the brim of people, like myself, who are detailing the finer points, as they see it, of the product. It really is simple, and the basic principal once understood, will make you laugh at the amount of trial and error we have all put in. Also, the real beauty of the device is many roads lead to your personal fulfillment. I would hazard a guess the vast majority are tweaking this device to suit their personal style. Therein lies the difference between any other method of vaping, CHOICE. I have not purchased an atomizer since the day my DID arrived. Truly, the quality of the product and the vape it produces have ruined me for any other method of vaping. Want to run it hot, set it up that way, want move vapor less TH, set it up that way, want to run a mech mod, set it up with low ohms, want vv, set it up with as high an ohms reading as you want, facilitated by the large wick hole, you can run this thing up to 4.0 or higher ohms if you want. Even if you have no clue about what I am talking about, ( I sure didn't when I started with this device 3 months ago, Ohms? Resistant? Watts? Amps?) you will quickly learn because it will affect and contribute to your ultimate perfect vape. So, I guess what I'm saying is have fun and enjoy this very cool device and once in your hands you will soon be giving advice to others about how to perfect it!
I wish I had a gas stove, best cooking... Anything "blue" flame works (nice and clean burning). Once you DID figured out the DID, there's nothing better.
I think the gas stove oxidation is a method simpler than a butane torch which I used ( Amazon.com: Switch Flame Butane Torch Pipe Lighter #109: Everything Else )
+1 @Ricky. In the immortal words of "The Fat Man", "what a long strange trip it's been..."
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