Also need to mention that I'm extremely grateful that my good friend Dspin turned me onto the DID. I'd read into it a little bit, but it was only because of his recommendations that I committed to buying one.
New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
- Thread starter Jim Damianidis
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Why not use the nuts - thats what they are there for -a secure connection.
Edit - Sorry , just read you lost a nut
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Glad you lovin it RW as much as I do, great write up too on the DID. Now we can await the mini DID.
Seriously! The mini did should be incredible. As long as Jim keeps the core components (wick hole, posts, and overall construction/assembly) exactly the same but employs a smaller tank and vapor chamber, it should turn out to be by far one of the best performing genesis atomizers around. I can't stress enough how great it'd be for the wick hole to stay the same size though!!!!!!! And on another note, I've been reading a lot of requests for an insulated wick hole, but frankly everyone, it's just totally unnecessary if you do a thorough job oxidizing your wick. If you must, buy a pack of insulators from the House of Hybrids website for $1 and use those, but be aware that a skinny wick is going to vape far worse than the huge one we're lucky enough to use currently.
I agree with that. No need to change anything. Only change needs to be - people be careful and oxidize correctly, and quit asking Jim to change diff things on his DID. Its perfect the way it is. Yes, the large wick hole is just excellent.
Hopefully with sales skyrocketing QUALITY CONTROL will remain the same.
Hopefully with sales skyrocketing QUALITY CONTROL will remain the same.
Excellent point D. The overall quality of the DID is near perfect, which was one of the primary aspects of the DID that really sold me on it when you were telling me about it, so I'd hate to see it decline. Just keep doing what you're doing Jim, everything is perfectly exactly how it is! And that includes the brass post and nuts! The ONLY thing I would change is regarding the nuts. What I think would be better would be to only include 2 nuts rather than 3, but to make one of them the length of 3 nuts stacked on top of each other, which would serve as the bottom nut. This is equivalent to stacking 3 nuts on the bottom and using one on the top, but only needing 2 would make the overall setup much simpler and more elegant.
Agree with you on this. I am a total dumba$$ when it comes to doing anything mechanical and DID is my first Genisis style atomizer. I got the same shorts that most of the people are getting when I first tried it and this is after reading through hours of wick/coil threads while waiting for it to arrive. And when I got shorts, I figured it was my coil wrapping and did lots and lots of coils. Finally figured out that when you think about it as a simple electrical issue, it always comes down to the wick. Finally after figuring out the wick, I have been a very happy vaper.
So keep at it. Make that wick well and you are all set. If I can do it any on can.
EDIT : @rwechsler - I have always admired the pics and vids you post of your devices. A little jealous even. Really like it how well you take care of them as well. Wish I could be as patient as you seem to be.
Well thank you KickServe! I'm really glad you enjoy them
And "patient" is a little bit too generous of a description, I'd characterize it as slightly impulsive, a trait that I picked up from Dspin ahahahahahah
I've only had the DID for a day now, but I'm pretty sure the bottom nut is to secure the positive post while it's off a battery. I suppose that wouldn't be so bad if you had a wick and coil installed. I could allow for enough play to mess up your perfect setup though.
/random thoughts. lol
Ahahaha, yes sir. Nothing compared to my 1.1Ω 6v ody setup though!@rwechsler: 0.85 Ohm? 16 Watt? Chain vaping THAT? Pharynx of steel you have!
I actually like the 3-nut setup because it allows you to adjust the height of the top coil. This can be useful for different coil configurations and spacing. What makes it easier for me is holding the bottom nut with a finger while tightening the top one with a toothpick by poking and turning the knurled edges. As I mentioned earlier, I think it helps to use the proper mating surfaces of the nuts....the sides with the 'well' and knurling along the top edges should be facing each other. They lock into place better this way.
What about a longer bottom nut ? thus bringing it up higher so the other two nuts would tighten down onto this longer bottom nut ? would this not work ? it would leave no play in the top two nuts so they wouldnt float, just a thought.
As is the DID is really perfect though in my opinion, ya gotta love the big wick in this thing.
Rick I see your using 4 nuts, I didnt even think of this, good idea, that eliminates the need for the bigger bottom nut I was speaking of I guess, that's what I meant by a longer bottom nut, might still be nice to have this bigger bottom knurled nut though but the 4 nuts will do.
Rick,, also whats the difference between using that black box meter you are using compared to using the Fluke multimeter to check things ? I also put mine on my Darwin and it immediately tells me, ohms, watts, volts, Amps, which is almost better then the meter and also tells me if there is a short.
Also still using my Dual wick set up, I can vape this at any angle with no flooding and the flavor is awesome.
As is the DID is really perfect though in my opinion, ya gotta love the big wick in this thing.
Rick I see your using 4 nuts, I didnt even think of this, good idea, that eliminates the need for the bigger bottom nut I was speaking of I guess, that's what I meant by a longer bottom nut, might still be nice to have this bigger bottom knurled nut though but the 4 nuts will do.
Rick,, also whats the difference between using that black box meter you are using compared to using the Fluke multimeter to check things ? I also put mine on my Darwin and it immediately tells me, ohms, watts, volts, Amps, which is almost better then the meter and also tells me if there is a short.
Also still using my Dual wick set up, I can vape this at any angle with no flooding and the flavor is awesome.
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Well, I was changing coils on a couple of my DiDs and when I put everything back and took a few drags, it felt a bit harsh. I opened it up, looked at the coils and looked for shorts and everything seemed fine. Couldn't figure it out.
Finally noticed that the air hole was on the other side of the wick - a 180 degree change in position. I could swear that it lined up perfectly before and finally after spending half an hour investigating, figured out that while changing the coils, I interchanged the top caps on the 2 dids.
Lesson learned : Only the cap that came with your DiD aligns perfectly. If you switch caps, it might or might not align.
Finally noticed that the air hole was on the other side of the wick - a 180 degree change in position. I could swear that it lined up perfectly before and finally after spending half an hour investigating, figured out that while changing the coils, I interchanged the top caps on the 2 dids.
Lesson learned : Only the cap that came with your DiD aligns perfectly. If you switch caps, it might or might not align.
Hi K-man, when going nuttless, watch your bottom coil when tightening your top wire. It is very easy to pull the negative bottom close as you are putting tension against the top. I am vaping on mine now. Had to pull bottom coil away from the positive bottom nut.
Followed your advice and took the 1/16 drill bit to one of them. Couldn't find the Titanium at Lowes, but got the Cobalt split point and it worked well - nice and clean.
Initial impressions after trying this on 2 different juices. On a light flavored juice like Malty from BWB, there is a lot of vapor but it makes the flavor more muted. On more sweeter juice like Gorilla juice, it tones down the sweetness like you said. I am still getting used to the airier draw.
My meter is constantly checking the Ωs on the fly so you know exactly when your changes are effecting it, as well as displaying those results less than 3" away from your coil, so it's extremely convenience and concise. The darwin you have to fire to get it to register Ωs, dont you? I could be wrong here, and if I am than a darwin should work just fine! As for the fluke, I've heard they're the absolute best of the best multi meters around, so it'd guarantee an exact resistance, but you don't necessarily have the same hands-free capabilites when it comes to attach leads to the contacts on the connector, though it's DEFINITELY possible with some solder, wire, a wired female 510 connector, and something to mount the connector in, which if executed properly, would actually be MUCH more accurate than my little $20 meter, but you'd have to put in some work (which I know you're always willing to do)
And as for the nuts, I posted the same idea that you just wrote a couple pages back I think! So instead of the 4 nuts I'm using currently, having one nut that's the same length as 3 stacked nuts, which would go on the bottom and lock down on the insulator, and then another nut (same size as current ones) on top of the big one wish you'd use to lock in your wire. Using 4 nuts does practically the exact same thing, but 2 would probably look and perform better as there's just fewer potential areas for error or threads unscrewing/moving around.
And as for the nuts, I posted the same idea that you just wrote a couple pages back I think! So instead of the 4 nuts I'm using currently, having one nut that's the same length as 3 stacked nuts, which would go on the bottom and lock down on the insulator, and then another nut (same size as current ones) on top of the big one wish you'd use to lock in your wire. Using 4 nuts does practically the exact same thing, but 2 would probably look and perform better as there's just fewer potential areas for error or threads unscrewing/moving around.
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