Now that I have rebuilt my DID countless times, not because of problems, just because I am a compulsive tinkerer, trying out all the various methods and techniques discovered here. I have somewhat settled down as follows:
Wick construction is the end all. I Jack Frost trying to achieve the gray look to the mesh. I use two pieces wick, one larger than the other. The large is rolled around the Allen key, the small around a paper clip, insert small into large. I examine, and re-heat slightly, and quench to firm the wick. I trim off any mesh hairs I see. I add cig paper damp with juice to area to be coiled.
Coiling: Because my wick is fat, I use only 3 wraps of annealed kanthal 32. This gives me 3 to 3.2 ohms eveytime. I wrap clockwise to top, making sure bottom lead wire approaches ground from inside between coil and nut. Top connection attaches from inside directly to pole with 1 counterclockwise wrap. Bottom nut concave up, top nut concave down. Use a pin to hold bottom nut, and screw top nut very firmly, until it is flush with pole.
Adjust any shorts with pin. Vape away. Just seems to give me very good vape and TH. I can always tell if short develops, through movement, by the harshness of vape. I get out pin and adjust. I would say every couple of days harshness develops, a 20 second adjustment, I'm good to go. But I am moving my DID about all the time. Device is now developing remarkable stability. What I love is the ability to tweak to my own preference. For example, I always screw in tank fill hole nut, because I prefer my juice muted. Others have different tastes. The DID makes choices possible.
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I am glad that you have figured out everything.
Let me clarify the word
clockwise in my
original post under the section THE VAPING CHAMBER.
“Be aware that as the
wire is wrapped around the post in a clockwise fashion (the better practice), when tightened, it will pull the wick closer to the nuts.
Clockwise wrapped wire, when tightened, will be pulled inward towards the center post, instead of being pushed away.”
It may not have been very clear that both sentences were addressing the
wire to either the ground or center post nuts, not the coil or wick.
“will be pulled inward towards the center post, instead of being pushed away.”
The effect of pulling inward vs. pushing away could be better illustrated if one is using a stranded wire vs. solid wire on a light switch's screw-on connector. Picture
Here under Solid versus stranded.
In this case,
for the coil, it makes
no difference whether the wire is going to and out of the wick
clockwise or counter-clockwise. There will always be one entry or one exit that is in-between the ground nut and the center post, either the coil is wrapped clockwise or counter-clockwise. For example, starting from the ground nut, clockwise wrapping will put the wire between the ground nut and center post first, then come out from outside, at the top, to the center post, and vise versa, if it is wrapped counter-clockwise. In fact, every turn of the coil is in between the wick and center post.
“Clockwise wrapped
wire, when tightened” not only will
pull the wick toward the center post, (danger of shorting to the center post) it will also
cut into the wick’s oxidized layer and shorting it to the wick, from the wick’s rebound tension. The perfect example is from
sweeperdk’s first attempt photo.
Leave some room for the wire, before you tighten it or secure the wire while you are tightening it.
Since the original post was long already, I might have left out reasoning behind some of the important principles.
