Striker, Do not sell the Provari or you will be getting rid of perhaps the best and safest device to use the DID on. If you are constantly getting the E1 and E2 codes, it due to the Provari detecting that there is something wrong. Putting the DID on a device that lets you vape through those errors, is just masking the issue and could potentially lead to a hard short/spring collapse on the fully mechanical mods. Not something you want to happen. The safety features on the Provari are there for a reason.
Now, moving on to the "train the trainer section" of my post. I've learned so much about using the DID from your videos, but I've managed to glean some valuable information from others too. Wrapping the coil separately on a screw that is just slightly larger than the wick hole. Dry burn and test the wick on the DID to check ohms and then insert the quenched wick into it. This method has worked very well for me, and it highlighted any issues that may have crept up into my coil or wick process. If the coil tested ok, and I get E1 or E2 errors after inserting the wick, then that is where the problem lies, and I can take steps towards it, either by isolating it from the bottom or oxidizing it again and running it through the quenching/burning process. Doing this ensures that I eliminate any shorts etc that may take place.
As for separating the wick from the centre nuts, I just use a tooth-pick to break any gummed up sections between the coils and centre nuts. Since my coil was already in place, and does not shift any closer to the nuts, I have no fear of breaking the connective oxidized juice between the wick and nuts, or on the wick itself.
Hope this helps in some way.
I was ...... off at a Provari tonight for the first time in months of using one. All the problems are from using the DID. E1, & E2 codes out the .... I finally fixed the e1 code. But bumping the coil takes you to the menu and that is an annoyance in itself. As far as the e2 code goes I just keep having to turn it down till it is happy. I have some high drains that push 20 watts coming for the Orion though. So I think I would do good to get a precise + for the DID rather then keeping the Provari. I need more power and less aggravation.
Part of me says to keep it for when I leave with a carto tank or vision stone. Though it will be getting messed up then, and my Lava Tube works fine for that. Guess I need to give it some more time and see if the lava tube I just listed sells or not. I hope it does so I have no choice but to keep the Provari but for what it seems best for, is not what I vape with very much at all. Since I sold my V1 ProV I have changed my style and its sad but its just not fitting very well now.
I can say that it does push more power then the Lava Tube but it comes with a price. Cash, and more aggravation. How Did I fix the e1 code? The wire starts to stick to the mesh and burns into the oxidation after a day or two from the gunk on the coil. It may have just been a bad day but every sq mm of that wire needs to be bumped to make sure its not stuck. Even in the back of the mesh in the areas that its hard to get to.
What do you guys do when the wire sticks to the mesh? I thought about changing the wire out but is some att needed for the mesh? Maybe a soft tooth brush? In the past I would just change the wire out when it got a lot of build up on it. But that same thing happens to the mesh. Gunk all over it.
