Just asked, because mine is 214 and they arrived about the same time
So the numbers are not linear, that's all
New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
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Just asked, because mine is 214 and they arrived about the same time
So the numbers are not linear, that's all
Of couse, I heard you...the taste with an ss-wick is even better...
Well lucky me
Another upgrade in quality awaits me in the near future and I don't even need another device for it.
You know Brigit, I'm not sure about that actually. From my reading, some prefer the taste of silica over SS. Much like picking which size SS mesh to use, I think everyone's choice might be a bit different. The only silica wick I've tried was on a cheap bulli clone device, and I don't want to use that as my basis on judgment for silica wicks. Luckily for me, I have both silica wick and SS mesh at home, so maybe I'll just try them both when my DID gets here. If it's working for you, then that's all that really matters at the end of the day.
I agree with you 100%
Just wrote it down to make clear for people who explore the Genisis-type to improve their vape,
with the DID learning to make coils and wicks can also be done step-by-step.
Might also want to check that your wick is not touching bottom or center post. Some shorts (also to inside wick hole) can't be seen and don't show as hot spots. If it doesn't go away after a 1 tank break-in period, you could twist the wick out and torch it especially around where it may touch inside the the wick hole (there's a nic pic tutorial posted earlier today).
Congratulations. Did you torch the mesh BEFORE you roll? If not, you may need a tank full of "break-in" period.
Jim's customer service is amazing. Simply respond to the link in your order confirmation email and they'll get back to you quickly.
Yeah, I got one of these last month. I remember rwechsler mentioning them a few months ago. I use mine every time I make a coil... like today in my new(second) DID!
I used about 110mm of 500 mesh with a 5/6 30AWG kanthal A coil to get 2.2 Ohms. I'm very happy with this set-up and would recommend it to anyone with wicking problems. Gotta go now - I'm waaay too buzzed on nicotine to be posting!
110mm? I'm assuming that's an almost solid wick for the 3.5mm standard/shortie?
You're getting some sound advice on possible solutions. It may also be some residual machining oil that did not quite wash away with water. I always give my new DIDs a nice vodka bath to eliminate this possibility.
Happy too with the DID ver here
Couldn't oxidize the wick...out of gaz.
So I took some 2mm silica, pulled it from the inside up, wrapped some coils around it and attached the ends to the +&-
2.0 Ohm, so one coil less will do later.
No complaints, no stress...just vapes brilliant!
I know, for Genisis-purists this must sound like horror
But for others, looking for something better though turning away because of the wick-trouble,
this could very well be the best step to getting comfortable with rebuilding.
I only did one recoil on a ViNo before, I can tell you, that's a lot more hassle than with the DID.
After only an hour of fiddling and finding tricks, I can now do a new wick and coil in 3 minutes.
Only backup I need now is a piece of silica and some wire...travel light
Of course, I heard you...the taste with a ss-wick is even better...
Well lucky me
Another upgrade in quality awaits me in the near future and I don't even need another device for it.
The SS mesh was great but I'm finding silica wick to be better. Here's what I'm using. This is 3mm wick, doubled over at the coil. Just dropped it in, connected the leads and viola!
Haven't seen Mr. Mann around for a while. Is there still an index curator?
Congrats to all the new DID owners!!!
I have another question concerning batteries. How do I charge those itty bitty 18350's in my Pila charger? It came with 2 extender thingies, which I was able to use on the 18490's, but for the life of me, I can't make the littler guys stay in place long enough to close the lid. One extender is too short, so I tried 2 in a row, and now it pops the battery out. Any tips? Thanks!
(oh, and I assume that the flat edge goes against the negative post, which leaves the pointy edge to go against the battery, and then the battery nibble goes against the positive terminal up by the flashing red lights).
I have another question concerning batteries. How do I charge those itty bitty 18350's in my Pila charger? It came with 2 extender thingies, which I was able to use on the 18490's, but for the life of me, I can't make the littler guys stay in place long enough to close the lid. One extender is too short, so I tried 2 in a row, and now it pops the battery out. Any tips? Thanks!
(oh, and I assume that the flat edge goes against the negative post, which leaves the pointy edge to go against the battery, and then the battery nibble goes against the positive terminal up by the flashing red lights).
Most mechanical mods have a "hot spring". This means that the spring will collapse when hit with heat from the battery if there's a short. When it collapses, it removes the battery from the connection, so that it can no longer power your device. When this happens, you have to buy a new hot spring for your mod and replace it, and the atomizer or battery that caused the short, and you're good to go. A fuse will protect your spring.
A ShortStop fuse is resettable, the 2cent one isn't. I bought the shortstop reusable fuse so that I don't have to buy a shipload of springs for my mods... I'm still a coil newbie, even though it seems like old hat already. I would recommend a fuse, the ShortStop in particular, just to save yourself the headache of having to replace a spring in your favorite mod.
Hey Uma, I've read on some of the battery sites that folks use rare earth neodymium batteries as spacers. I got some little ones (1mm x 5mm) so I can use flattop batts in my Provari. Apparently Aluminum slugs are the best spacers (most conductive), but RE batts stay in place (may lessen max charge by 0.025v due to added resistance). I'm going to order some 18350 eventually and will get the 8mmx5mm N35 batts to stack up as spacers (18500's should take 3, 18350's should take 6). I'm not a battery expert, YMMV
Besides, the little batteries are really fun to play with (we make smiley faces on the fridge) and I got 20 of them for $1.79 + free shipping off eBay.
Besides, the little batteries are really fun to play with (we make smiley faces on the fridge) and I got 20 of them for $1.79 + free shipping off eBay.
Right on Tony!!!!!Ordered on the 12 sep. Got today. Back to Did bliss..
Tony
Until I get some spacer magnets, is it okay to charge AW-IMR's on my old trustfire charger? If I remember right, it takes all sizes. Just slower than molasses.
I don't see why not. As long as it is specc'd for 3.7v batts it should work fine.
I use the spacers from Super T Manufacturing in my Pila (scroll almost to the end of the page)
Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.
Aluminum Spacer
XTAR WP6 Extra Spacers
-Works with WF-139 and PILA chargers to accept 16340 and 18350 size batteries
-Size: 15mm
$1.99 (each)
Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.
Aluminum Spacer
XTAR WP6 Extra Spacers
-Works with WF-139 and PILA chargers to accept 16340 and 18350 size batteries
-Size: 15mm
$1.99 (each)
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