New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[DSmooch]

D Smooch, sometimes "Unconditional Support" is warranted when something works exactly how it was designed to work. There is nothing wrong with that kind of support from those who find it to their liking.

The big problem comes when that support is no longer warranted because something changes with the product and it no longer meets those standards yet people still swear it does. That in essence is now a lie and that my Friend is when it becomes a problem. (Not the case here because nothing has changed in the manufacture of these devices).

The other Problem is when that unconditional support becomes rude to others who do not agree.

There are proper ways of supporting unconditionally and then there are ways of doing this that are totally unacceptable.

I have seen both in this thread. I ignore the rude and belittling ones and take on board the information provided by those who are honestly and sincerely trying to help others.

Nate aka Darth Vapor

Devon, i haven't encountered anyone rude in here... except one angry teen once. At the contrary, top crowd in here. ppl that really want to help out.
The product does work as intended, no doubt. I have never stated otherwise, please reread.
In my view, the selective "liking" from the owner to discourage genuine interest in improvement is a very bad business attitude.
As far as I'm concerned it's a immediate loss of interest in whatever is to come up. period.

 

[Uma]

DSmooch... Whenever there's an improvement to be made, someone speaks up and Jim listens and Jim done DID's it. I don't understand your post.

We can now buy SS or Brass centerpost setups either one or even mix them up if wanted.
We can now buy various sized experimental wire and mesh straight from him, and save a fortune if we don't like our results.
We can soon buy hybrid style mods even, to go with our various sized DID's. Our wish, his delight to fulfill.
We can soon buy glass tanks from him if his soon to be provider makes them to desired proficiency.
We can ask Jim for the moon and he would somehow put the right sized hole configurations in it so we could vape that too.

It wouldn't surprise me in the least to next see a knurled thumb screw with adjustable air hole or some such genius modification. He's always on the ball.
It wouldn't surprise me in the least to next see a Titanium light weight version of each model too. And Titanium mesh. Just please dear lord, please do not "insulate" with "insulators"!!! Those things don't work right half the time anyway. They melt (oh yuck!!), they squish, they just suck... but if you come up with a doozie, I'll try it, just cuz it's a doozie from the master.

+10 Overall stated very clearly about the insulators bs as well as the leak bs.
Mine never leaks either.

It all really boils down to individuals with their individual ways of rolling and materials used probably. That's another huge bonus plus about the DID. The way we can experiment with it, using all the new "must try this!!" things that hit the forums in every RBA thread.

P.S. Yeh!!! The double zipper coin pouches are great! I got mine at the big box drug store (used to be Rite-aid now it's CVS).

 

[overall]

Jim I can see your indeed fueling the "unconditional support" and the censorship mentality in here. I'm not sure where this will lead your business, but good luck to you my friend.

Over the course of the last few months since the DID was first built we have as a group gone through all kinds of learning curves. When genesis atomizers first came out we were torching our wicks until they almost crumbled. We evolved from 325 mesh which was thought to be the right mesh for VG liquids and 400 mesh for PG to experimenting with 200 and 270 mesh. We have tried thin wall thick wick, thin wall thin disk on to thick wall wick. We are now playing with 500 and soon 635 mesh. We no longer torch until black......now we do a Jack Frost with or without juice burn. We have evolved from 32awg to 30 and 28awg. More wraps.....less wraps. Mechanical and VV mods. Each of us had developed our own favorite setup. None are wrong we are just all individual.
What I love about this four is how the community helps each other. We have welcomed new DIDers and helped them get set up.
Just because we alter our DIDs to suit our vaping style it doesn't mean the DID design is flawed. There is not a genesis out there that suits all vapers out of the box. The DID allows us to perfect our vaping experience. The build quality is so good it makes it easy to customize. We are not a group who blindly support Jim.....but we do love what he has created for us. We love the openness and the helpfulness of this group.
I have multiple hybrid mods and genesis atomizers ..... but I have 7 DIDs. I bought 7 because they work very well for me.
Jim has been so responsive to our wants and dreams.
Yes I will always support Jim and I don't have a single negative comment about the DID.
I personally have removed the insulators from my other genesis devices. Once I learned how to oxidize correctly the insulators just added a step that I personally no longer needed.

 

[Uma]

Devon, i haven't encountered anyone rude in here... except one angry teen once. At the contrary, top crowd in here. ppl that really want to help out.
The product does work as intended, no doubt. I have never stated otherwise, please reread.
In my view, the selective "liking" from the owner to discourage genuine interest in improvement is a very bad business attitude.
As far as I'm concerned it's a immediate loss of interest in whatever is to come up. period.

We love our "Likes" from Jim!! It means he's catching up with us on the thread! He's a busy busy person and sometimes the "likes" are all we get out of him for days and days and at a time.

 

[Devonmoonshire]

Devon, i haven't encountered anyone rude in here... except one angry teen once. At the contrary, top crowd in here. ppl that really want to help out.
The product does work as intended, no doubt. I have never stated otherwise, please reread.
In my view, the selective "liking" from the owner to discourage genuine interest in improvement is a very bad business attitude.
As far as I'm concerned it's a immediate loss of interest in whatever is to come up. period.

Well if that is the case then I am totally lost as to what your intentions are. If there is nothing to mention then just don't mention it. I know for a fact that I personally use the like to not only tell someone I like what they had to say but also as a signal to let them know I have actually read their post. It comes in very handy sometimes because it allows the person who wrote the original post to go right back to it and read everything that came after it.

But mostly I just genuinely like a lot of things that a lot of folks have had to say. Nevertheless "Liking" a post in no way should affect how anyone sees a vendor other than possibly increasing their reputation because it actually means the Take The Time To Read what their customers have to say.

Sincerely;
Nate aka Darth Vapor

 

[MiriamWTH]

Devon, i haven't encountered anyone rude in here... except one angry teen once. At the contrary, top crowd in here. ppl that really want to help out.
The product does work as intended, no doubt. I have never stated otherwise, please reread.
In my view, the selective "liking" from the owner to discourage genuine interest in improvement is a very bad business attitude.
As far as I'm concerned it's a immediate loss of interest in whatever is to come up. period.

I don't think Jim is "selectively liking" any posts. He is just liking the posts that put a smile on his face, maybe he liked my posts because it reminded him about the story I posted a few months ago about absent minded throwing my Provari with my DID on it instead of a stick and being completely flabbergasted when my Labrador brought it back to me. Jim is just a human being like the rest of us and if he likes a post for what ever reason he can press the button that says "like".

As for improvements, Jim is always on top of anything we suggest if it is indeed an improvement. We got SS posts and nuts after some people had issues with brass. We got driptips, we got the clear windows available straight from his website, we are now waiting for glass windows that he is in the progress of getting made, we got a base to setup our DID's on, we got a battery mod, and hopefully soon will have a butch 18650 mod too! There are just so many things that he is taking from our ideas to him making reality it is unbelievable.

As to your suggested improvements let me copy that bit again:

1) Wicking/Leaking
In my view, a top tank would resolve these issues. The wicking would be gravitational. Your juice would remain clear all the time.
2) inside tanks. glass or plastic that could be pre-filled and replaceable on the fly.
3) wick insulation. bottom and hole.

1: If you set it up right there is simply no wicking/leaking issue with the DID
2: I might be interested by Jim making a top feeding genny, but I fear that it will not be as good as the DID. (will explain more below)
3: wick insulation is not needed. In fact I think Jim's design is already an improvement over other Genesis style atties out there because it DOES NOT have wick insulation.

2: Why a top feeding atty (in my opinion) will not be as good as the DID. One of the main things that makes the DID a very well functioning atty for me is the large wick hole and I just cannot see a top feeding atty function well with a large wick hole, it would just over wick or indeed leak. Then again like I said it might be interesting to see what Jim's take on that would be. But like I said in my previous post, a top feeding genesis is just more complicated in adjusting the coils, you can't just take the top off and quickly nudge the coils like you can with a bottom feeding genesis.

Anyway enough of me ranting now, i better check my rice before it burns!

Miriam (with the Hat)

 

[VapourNinja]

I'd like some help from the experts.

I have a full sized DID, a knockoff miniDID, a ZAP, and an NGP.

Setups are:

ZAP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh), 6 coils, 2.7ohm, running on a provari @ 4.8V for roughly 8W output
NGP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh, 3 coils, 1.6ohm, hybrid, 3.7V for roughly 8W output
DID: 110mm solid wick (400 mesh), 2 coils, 1.6ohm, running on a Legacy @ 3.7V for roughly 8W output
fake-DID: "thick"... still thin, but the size of the fillhole, hollow wick, pinched at the top (400 mesh), 3-4 coil, 1.7 ohm, running on my USB passthrough or Ego-Twist @ 3.8V for roughly 8W output

I don't get quite the same flavor from my DID that I do from my ZAP, but ... whatever. I guess I don't really care about that.

Neither the DID nor the fakeDID leak if the fill-hole is covered. In fact, with the fake-DID on a passthrough with a wire coming out the bottom it's impossible to stand upright. It lays on its side, air-hole down, all the time.

Both the DID and fakeDID I can do roughly a 3 second inhale and have a good experience. Add a 4th second, or a second puff, and it's dry. Have to put it down and wait at least a minute before the wicking will catch up.

If I take the fillhole screws out... they vape like a champ. But then they also leak.

I see, over and over and over, all of you talking about no leak + good wicking. I can't make it happen.

Help?

The ZAP and NGP, of course, leak like champs.

 

[Uma]

Excellent detailed breakdown, Ninja! I hope the more experienced will be here today in order to share their tips and tricks.
I'm a 2-3 second draw person, and even a 1 seconder. I get more vapor from the first 1-2 seconds than I can handle. Whenever I need more, and there are those times of course, then I pulsate the fire button so that my juice doesn't burn.
(release the button after 2-3 second draw, inhale, and rehit the button before it cools too far for the next inhale). The less coils that are wrapped, like yours, the faster and stronger it burns. (as you know). I hate burnt tasting juice, ruins the whole tank full, makes it all go meh to worse.

 

[Unspokenzero]

I'd like some help from the experts.

I have a full sized DID, a knockoff miniDID, a ZAP, and an NGP.

Setups are:

ZAP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh), 6 coils, 2.7ohm, running on a provari @ 4.8V for roughly 8W output
NGP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh, 3 coils, 1.6ohm, hybrid, 3.7V for roughly 8W output
DID: 110mm solid wick (400 mesh), 2 coils, 1.6ohm, running on a Legacy @ 3.7V for roughly 8W output
fake-DID: "thick"... still thin, but the size of the fillhole, hollow wick, pinched at the top (400 mesh), 3-4 coil, 1.7 ohm, running on my USB passthrough or Ego-Twist @ 3.8V for roughly 8W output

I don't get quite the same flavor from my DID that I do from my ZAP, but ... whatever. I guess I don't really care about that.

Neither the DID nor the fakeDID leak if the fill-hole is covered. In fact, with the fake-DID on a passthrough with a wire coming out the bottom it's impossible to stand upright. It lays on its side, air-hole down, all the time.

Both the DID and fakeDID I can do roughly a 3 second inhale and have a good experience. Add a 4th second, or a second puff, and it's dry. Have to put it down and wait at least a minute before the wicking will catch up.

If I take the fillhole screws out... they vape like a champ. But then they also leak.

I see, over and over and over, all of you talking about no leak + good wicking. I can't make it happen.

Help?

The ZAP and NGP, of course, leak like champs.

It sounds like you have your wraps for your coils too tight on the DID and they are choking your wicking. Can you let us know what type of wire you are using to wrap your coils? Also what type of juice are you using the pg/vg ratio if you know it?

What you can do to improve your wicking is re-wrap your coil with a less tight and see how that works out for you. Also you can try on your DID rolling a thicker wick, this will help trap more juice inside the wick.

 

[MiriamWTH]

I'd like some help from the experts.

I have a full sized DID, a knockoff miniDID, a ZAP, and an NGP.

Setups are:

ZAP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh), 6 coils, 2.7ohm, running on a provari @ 4.8V for roughly 8W output
NGP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh, 3 coils, 1.6ohm, hybrid, 3.7V for roughly 8W output
DID: 110mm solid wick (400 mesh), 2 coils, 1.6ohm, running on a Legacy @ 3.7V for roughly 8W output
fake-DID: "thick"... still thin, but the size of the fillhole, hollow wick, pinched at the top (400 mesh), 3-4 coil, 1.7 ohm, running on my USB passthrough or Ego-Twist @ 3.8V for roughly 8W output

I don't get quite the same flavor from my DID that I do from my ZAP, but ... whatever. I guess I don't really care about that.

Neither the DID nor the fakeDID leak if the fill-hole is covered. In fact, with the fake-DID on a passthrough with a wire coming out the bottom it's impossible to stand upright. It lays on its side, air-hole down, all the time.

Both the DID and fakeDID I can do roughly a 3 second inhale and have a good experience. Add a 4th second, or a second puff, and it's dry. Have to put it down and wait at least a minute before the wicking will catch up.

If I take the fillhole screws out... they vape like a champ. But then they also leak.

I see, over and over and over, all of you talking about no leak + good wicking. I can't make it happen.

Help?

The ZAP and NGP, of course, leak like champs.

I can only describe my wick and coil to you, other may have different setups.

At the moment I have a well seasoned wick on there (about 2 or 3 months old) that was made with a bit of mesh 60x40mm it has the smallest hole in the middle, just about big enough for a very thin injection needle to fit in the middle (I am often too lazy to undo my fill screw and then i fill my DID that way) the coil is a new one I just made this week with 30 AWG a 4 wrap giving me 1.2 ohms.
The wick it self is cut at a 45 degree angle inside the tank and does not stick out above the positive post. The top of the wick is NOT pinched (otherwise I can't put my syringe in) the wick itself fits snug in the wickhole.
At the moment I use a 70/30 PG/VG liquid. But my setup works well for a 100% VG too.
I use an old electric toothbrush on my coils once a week or so to brush of any gunk when my tank is empty and then just rinse the whole thing under the tap and give some dry-burns and rinse again. Then I fill it up again and am good to go again.

Once a month or so I completely take my DID apart to give all the parts a nice bath in my sonic cleaner and yes I even toss my wick in there too. After the bath I quickly give the wick a burn with my creme brulee burner (just a second or 2) and let it cool down after that before I coil it again.

My wicks last me for months (I think this is only my 3rd wick since I bought my DID in April or May) and my coil usually lasts me 2 to 4 weeks (or until I want to try something different like new thickness of wire or twisted wires etc.)
The last coil was a twisted 34 AWG wire with a 5 wrap and the only reason I took it off was because my 30 AWG wire arrived in the post and I could not wait to try it.

I hope this helps you.

Miriam (with the Hat)

edit to add: I am a definite chainvaper, and I take loooooooong drags sometimes my Provari even cuts out before I am finished dragging so what is that like 12 to 14 seconds? And I never get a dry hit.

another edit to add that I am using 400 Mesh.

and another edit (feeling completely stupid to put February as the month before May!)

 

[VapourNinja]

It sounds like you have your wraps for your coils too tight on the DID and they are choking your wicking. Can you let us know what type of wire you are using to wrap your coils? Also what type of juice are you using the pg/vg ratio if you know it?

What you can do to improve your wicking is re-wrap your coil with a less tight and see how that works out for you. Also you can try on your DID rolling a thicker wick, this will help trap more juice inside the wick.

32ga Kanthal

Wraps are touching the coil but not pinching. They move freely, but have no air-gap.

Juice is 70/30

The DID wick is 110mm, completely solid, as thick as the fillhole.

 

[VapourNinja]

I can only describe my wick and coil to you, other may have different setups.

At the moment I have a well seasoned wick on there (about 2 or 3 months old) that was made with a bit of mesh 60x40mm it has the smallest hole in the middle, just about big enough for a very thin injection needle to fit in the middle (I am often too lazy to undo my fill screw and then i fill my DID that way) the coil is a new one I just made this week with 30 AWG a 4 wrap giving me 1.2 ohms.
The wick it self is cut at a 45 degree angle inside the tank and does not stick out above the positive post. The top of the wick is NOT pinched (otherwise I can't put my syringe in) the wick itself fits snug in the wickhole.
At the moment I use a 70/30 PG/VG liquid. But my setup works well for a 100% VG too.
I use an old electric toothbrush on my coils once a week or so to brush of any gunk when my tank is empty and then just rinse the whole thing under the tap and give some dry-burns and rinse again. Then I fill it up again and am good to go again.

Once a month or so I completely take my DID apart to give all the parts a nice bath in my sonic cleaner and yes I even toss my wick in there too. After the bath I quickly give the wick a burn with my creme brulee burner (just a second or 2) and let it cool down after that before I coil it again.

My wicks last me for months (I think this is only my 3rd wick since I bought my DID in Feb or May) and my coil usually lasts me 2 to 4 weeks (or until I want to try something different like new thickness of wire or twisted wires etc.)
The last coil was a twisted 34 AWG wire with a 5 wrap and the only reason I took it off was because my 30 AWG wire arrived in the post and I could not wait to try it.

I hope this helps you.

Miriam (with the Hat)

edit to add: I am a definite chainvaper, and I take loooooooong drags sometimes my Provari even cuts out before I am finished dragging so what is that like 12 to 14 seconds? And I never get a dry hit.

another edit to add that I am using 400 Mesh.

That helps. I'm also angle-cut on the bottom, also 400 mesh. Looks like I aim for SLIGHTLY higher resistance than you, but that should actually result in a lower temperature and a lower juice consumption... which means I should have less wicking issue.

I _think_ that the big difference is that you do have a hollow wick. Logically in a sealed tank as juice escapes you end up with vacuum. Need air to enter to equalize. In a 'not covered fill hole' scenario the juice can exit the wick hole, and air can enter the fill hole.

I think I was overly-sold on the 'solid' wick concept. Sure, it wicks great. But there has to be a way for the pressure to equalize. With a covered fill hole that _has_ to mean a hollow wick.

Yay for logic.


Can a few others that have a 'no leak great wick' DID chime in? All of you have covered fill hole, but an airpath in the wick?

 

[MiriamWTH]

That helps. I'm also angle-cut on the bottom, also 400 mesh. Looks like I aim for SLIGHTLY higher resistance than you, but that should actually result in a lower temperature and a lower juice consumption... which means I should have less wicking issue.

I _think_ that the big difference is that you do have a hollow wick. Logically in a sealed tank as juice escapes you end up with vacuum. Need air to enter to equalize. In a 'not covered fill hole' scenario the juice can exit the wick hole, and air can enter the fill hole.

I think I was overly-sold on the 'solid' wick concept. Sure, it wicks great. But there has to be a way for the pressure to equalize. With a covered fill hole that _has_ to mean a hollow wick.

Yay for logic.


Can a few others that have a 'no leak great wick' DID chime in? All of you have covered fill hole, but an airpath in the wick?

Yes I think you have the logic there. Though my "hollow" wick is only just hollow, the needle i use is a very thin needle, can't remember what gauge but it takes a while to fill my syringe with 70/30 PG/VG through that needle and a long long time to fill it with 100% VG (I am talking minutes for the VG).

 

[VapourNinja]

Miriam,

What measurement do you use for your wick? And is it a 'fat' wick that is exactly the size of the wick hole, with a needle-sized gap down the center?

 

[MiriamWTH]

Miriam,

What measurement do you use for your wick? And is it a 'fat' wick that is exactly the size of the wick hole, with a needle-sized gap down the center?

I use 60mm by 40mm to start of making my wick. My wick fits snug in the hole, there is no gap on the outside anywhere and the needle size gap i have just described in my previous post.

 

[Jimi D.]

View attachment 142870 Just to let the people know, that I drilled a .042 through the fill cap. The reason was for spillage and over wicking. This is perfect for me.

This will solve the problem Vapourninja I use a solid 500 wick. I form a spiral at the bottom. As you can see, the top of the wick is con caved.

 

[max1965]

That helps. I'm also angle-cut on the bottom, also 400 mesh. Looks like I aim for SLIGHTLY higher resistance than you, but that should actually result in a lower temperature and a lower juice consumption... which means I should have less wicking issue.

I _think_ that the big difference is that you do have a hollow wick. Logically in a sealed tank as juice escapes you end up with vacuum. Need air to enter to equalize. In a 'not covered fill hole' scenario the juice can exit the wick hole, and air can enter the fill hole.

I think I was overly-sold on the 'solid' wick concept. Sure, it wicks great. But there has to be a way for the pressure to equalize. With a covered fill hole that _has_ to mean a hollow wick.

Yay for logic.


Can a few others that have a 'no leak great wick' DID chime in? All of you have covered fill hole, but an airpath in the wick?

I'm using a solid wick too - well, not exactly I'm using a dual wick, outer wick 325 mesh and inner wick solid 400 mesh with absolutely no hole.

The only thing I do different is that my wick is slightly thinner than the size of the wick hole, allowing enough airflow around the outside, and at the same time not leaking at all.

The gap around my wick is something like 0.5mm around the wick.

Like I said before I can chain vape it almost vertically, no need for tilting!
And it doesn't leak at all

 

[VapourNinja]

I'm using a solid wick too - well, not exactly I'm using a dual wick, outer wick 325 mesh and inner wick solid 400 mesh with absolutely no hole.

The only thing I do different is that my wick is slightly thinner than the size of the wick hole, allowing enough airflow around the outside, and at the same time not leaking at all.

The gap around my wick is something like 0.5mm around the wick.

Like I said before I can chain vape it almost vertically, no need for tilting!
And it doesn't leak at all

Hmm. Do you find that works better than a 'standard' hollow wick?

I did definitely notice better wicking with a solid wick (airpath via fill hole) vs a hollow wick but science would say... more capillaries = more capillary action. More wick = more juice. Reducing the over-all diameter (airgap around the wick) vs a hollow wick should be roughly the same end result.

Air flow via fill hole resulted in leaking. Not sure why airflow via wickhole would not, but I'll take y'all at your word

 

[Jim Damianidis]

Hmm. Do you find that works better than a 'standard' hollow wick?

I did definitely notice better wicking with a solid wick (airpath via fill hole) vs a hollow wick but science would say... more capillaries = more capillary action. More wick = more juice. Reducing the over-all diameter (airgap around the wick) vs a hollow wick should be roughly the same end result.

Air flow via fill hole resulted in leaking. Not sure why airflow via wickhole would not, but I'll take y'all at your word

IMO
The thickness depends from the user chain user or like UMA one draw!
The airflow via fill hole or via wickhole IMO nowhere when the screw is missing !
But when we have the screw on then we have the "under presure wicking" the presure depends from the airhole.When airhole is small the rest of our draw presure goes to the wickhole.
I hope all of us to invest posts for this!
And I say and you know that I hear all of you and your opinions but I have 24 hours a day like all do!
Thank you for your sympathies!

 

[VapourNinja]

But when we have the screw on then we have the "under presure wicking" the presure depends from the airhole.
I hope all of us to invest posts for this!

That's the core answer right there. It's actually genius. Sealing the fill hole forces the airpath through the center of the wick. The fluid dynamics would be such that the more juice wicked, the more air enters, the more juice is FORCED to wick.

That would suggest that the optimal design is:

Wick as large as possible, touching the sides of the wick hole, with a hollow center.

Size of the hollow center is up for debate, unless Jim is willing to comment on what he thinks is best.