New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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rwechsler

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I'm vaping a 4/3 wrap of 28g (around 0.6ish Ω) with a moderately thin walled #500 wick (not my usual 2 sheet thick wick, but it's nowhere close to solid either) and it's vaping like a freight train. Flavor is surprisingly crisp and clear, but it really shines as far as VP and TH. The coil heats up nearly instantly and the wick is getting enough juice to the coil to chain vape it for minutes at a time.
Did you find the flavor suffered when you went back to a 4wrap coil after the "monster coils"?
I've been running a 1.1Ohnm coil on my paps 7wrap 28awg nichrome, 150mm #500 mesh and it is a "little slow to get boogieing, but the flavor is great, although vapor is not as much as expected.
On my clear window DID I have a 6wrap 30awg Kanthal wrap on 105mm #500 mesh to run on my Zmax and on the paps with a kick, however the flavor is not quite as intense and the vapor is good but not stellar.
I've been thinking about a 4 or five wrap 30 awg kanthal wrap for a faster response, but was afraid I'm going to sacrifice the great flavor .
 

Uma

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The area under the coil was oxidized using Jack Frost method. The rest of the wick was completely unoxidized. I have been reading on another thread about the electricity taking the path of least resistance. We know the coil is grounded by the body of the DID therefore it doesn't matter if the wick anywhere other than under the coil is oxidized, the heat will travel along the wire and ground at the grounding nut....this would be the path of least resistance. I put my wick all the way to the bottom of the tank as well. The more I play with these genesis devices the less effort I put forth with the wick and the better the results. When I oxidized the area under the coil I used a cool flame as well. Granted I did flame a few seconds longer than when I torch but at no time did the mesh get past dark orange. I was actually expecting there to be shorts but I only had to do minor coil shifting (about the same as I have to do with the fully oxidized wick). It would appear that the only part that matters is what is under the coil. Also using the path of least resistance I am going to try a completely unoxidized wick with 28awg wire and 500 mesh..the mesh should be higher resistance than the kanthal because the wires are so thin on the mesh. I have a feeling it may be doable.
This is most interesting info. Every day I am amazed by the breakthroughs by the adventurous.
For me though, I'd rather take the extra 10 minutes at the stove top than take the extra day rolling and rolling and rolling...
Plus I like to burn off any mechanical or handling residue that may or may not be on the mesh and wire both.
But, rest assured, I will feel oh so okay about prepping a wick this way if need be while stranded on the other side of the bridge!

I do have a question though..
Sometimes, just by lifting the wick a notch, we receive better flavor and/or vapor.
Sometimes, just by clipping the top down a notch, we receive better flavor and/or vapor.
Was this because we slightly moved the wick away from an un-oxidized hot spot under the coil? doh'. I think I just answered my own question lol.
It may have also uncapped an end or two too, allowing air to move into the wick when it's not up against something like the top cap or bottom of tank.
 

Devonmoonshire

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This is most interesting info. Every day I am amazed by the breakthroughs by the adventurous.
For me though, I'd rather take the extra 10 minutes at the stove top than take the extra day rolling and rolling and rolling...
Plus I like to burn off any mechanical or handling residue that may or may not be on the mesh and wire both.
But, rest assured, I will feel oh so okay about prepping a wick this way if need be while stranded on the other side of the bridge!

I do have a question though..
Sometimes, just by lifting the wick a notch, we receive better flavor and/or vapor.
Sometimes, just by clipping the top down a notch, we receive better flavor and/or vapor.
Was this because we slightly moved the wick away from an un-oxidized hot spot under the coil? doh'. I think I just answered my own question lol.
It may have also uncapped an end or two too, allowing air to move into the wick when it's not up against something like the top cap or bottom of tank.

Even with my Fiber Wick atty's I still run everything that goes into them through the intense heat of the butane torch. I do this not to oxidize or condition or anything other than to just make sure it is free of contaminates of any kind. I think this is a very safe and smart practice for everyone who builds their own stuff. We can never possibly know what kind of stuff may be lingering on our mesh, wires or wicks from the manufacturing process and cleaning them is most definitely a good idea always.

Sincerely;
Nate aka Darth Vapor
 

MisterMike

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I'll never tell :p

But, but, but....

Sad Baby.jpg
 

overall

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Thankfully my juice has PG which has antimicrobial properties. My lungs have been conditioned by years of smoking to accept any kind of toxin I care to inhale. I concur it is good practice to lessen our risk. I could if I ...(wasn't too lazy) ...boil the mesh. It is my experimenting week. I just loaded up my mini with a wick only oxidized under the coil. The mini has always been my hardest DID to set up, was slightly problematic with a top coil short. I managed to poke it into shape without oxidizing.
Even with my Fiber Wick atty's I still run everything that goes into them through the intense heat of the butane torch. I do this not to oxidize or condition or anything other than to just make sure it is free of contaminates of any kind. I think this is a very safe and smart practice for everyone who builds their own stuff. We can never possibly know what kind of stuff may be lingering on our mesh, wires or wicks from the manufacturing process and cleaning them is most definitely a good idea always.

Sincerely;
Nate aka Darth Vapor
 
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Devonmoonshire

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Thankfully my juice has PG which has antimicrobial properties. My lungs have been conditioned by years of smoking to accept any kind of toxin I care to inhale. I concur it is good practice to lessen our risk. I could if I ...(wasn't too lazy) ...boil the mesh. It is my experimenting week. I just loaded up my mini with a wick only oxidized under the coil. The mini has always been my hardest DID to set up, was slightly problematic with a top coil short. I managed to poke it into shape without oxidizing.

That is awesome, I am really liking the talk about not oxidizing the wick because I am very lazy. Although I do send massive heat into the wicks for my silica models I also hit the coil with a quick blast form the gas stove or the torch whichever is easiest at the time.

I have a couple of cheapies to experiment on coming Thursday. Hopefully by the time my Gemeni gets here I will have it down to a science on what I like so I can just build everything for the Gemini and fill and vape with ease.

I am probably going to twist some wire together tomorrow the way I do it because I used my last length yesterday changing the coil in my Ody but I want some good twisted wire to try out first on the Gemini :D

Nate aka Darth Vapor
 

overall

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I honestly have never worried about the position of the DID top cap. I run 3 mods at a time, I just throw the DID on and vape.
Hey guys. With my Mini DiD I can twist the tank around until it lines up with my mod's button. But with the regular DID it won't twist to suit. Is that normal or should I just try harder to twist it into place?
 
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