New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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Pete54

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Just a quick note on those ceramic wicks. I made another one and torched the daylights out of it. It's working REALLY well. I had used an old air stone that was in an aquarium several months ago so apparently it needed to be cleaned thoroughly! I'm going to make a 1Ω coil and try it to see if it can handle a heavy wicking load. I believe it will.
 

Oly6t1

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I think the locking button is a great option, If not just for looks it may be handy for those with younger kids around.
I want a slotted button sleeve or ribbed as well, Along with some brassy stuff someday :D

I like the sleeves off around the house lately, Easy to find the button and a different look with the O-ring slot exposed.
SAM_0896a.jpg


This next picture says it all :)

I have a buyer for the dry tank already. I may keep it being my very 1st rba....hmmm tempted.

Has anyone mentioned how nice the sleeve's sound when sliding them off and on? :lol:
 

mzsazri

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Just a quick note on those ceramic wicks. I made another one and torched the daylights out of it. It's working REALLY well. I had used an old air stone that was in an aquarium several months ago so apparently it needed to be cleaned thoroughly! I'm going to make a 1Ω coil and try it to see if it can handle a heavy wicking load. I believe it will.

where I can get the ceramic wick

sent from my nokia 3310
 

cryptodogg

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Stupid question

What does this mean?

IMPORTANT:
ALL PURCHASES
WILL INCLUDE
ALL 3 TUBES
(NO DIFFERENT FINISH.
ONLY THE SAME
AS YOUR CHOISE)

If this means it comes with all different size batt tubes, then I am guessing we will be able to order the different size pants as add on's really soon.

Thx
 

Cloud Wizard

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Stupid question

What does this mean?

IMPORTANT:
ALL PURCHASES
WILL INCLUDE
ALL 3 TUBES
(NO DIFFERENT FINISH.
ONLY THE SAME
AS YOUR CHOISE)

If this means it comes with all different size batt tubes, then I am guessing we will be able to order the different size pants as add on's really soon.

Thx

It means that it comes with 18650 tube & pants, 18500 tube & pants and 18350 tube & pants. If you order polished tube and satin pants, they will all be polished tube and satin pants. From what Jim's been hinting, in the not too distant future we will also be able to order individual parts "ala carte" :thumbs:

Like this :):
ADA03F9D-8CAC-46D3-BAA9-D510087054EE-4151-0000019392D6D074.jpg
 

pAth77

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I've had my DID for a while now, and I'm loving both its performance and aesthetics on my Precise+18350. I'm currently using 500 mesh rolled solid and 32awg kanthal with a 3/2 wrap. This setup totally outperforms everything that I have ever used. I have the version that utilizes the brass positive pole/nuts, and although it's working perfectly for me, I can't stand the tarnish that inevitably comes. Is it worth it to pick up the stainless positive pole/screw set? Will I see any change in performance versus the brass?

Also, any chance that there will be clear windows or Pyrex windows available soon?
 

overall

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I did not notice a change in performance with the SS setup. The stainless center pole nuts make the setup easier than the brass. Clear pyrex tanks are already available for the DID and short DID on the mm website.
I've had my DID for a while now, and I'm loving both its performance and aesthetics on my Precise+18350. I'm currently using 500 mesh rolled solid and 32awg kanthal with a 3/2 wrap. This setup totally outperforms everything that I have ever used. I have the version that utilizes the brass positive pole/nuts, and although it's working perfectly for me, I can't stand the tarnish that inevitably comes. Is it worth it to pick up the stainless positive pole/screw set? Will I see any change in performance versus the brass?

Also, any chance that there will be clear windows or Pyrex windows available soon?
 

Cloud Wizard

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I've had my DID for a while now, and I'm loving both its performance and aesthetics on my Precise+18350. I'm currently using 500 mesh rolled solid and 32awg kanthal with a 3/2 wrap. This setup totally outperforms everything that I have ever used. I have the version that utilizes the brass positive pole/nuts, and although it's working perfectly for me, I can't stand the tarnish that inevitably comes. Is it worth it to pick up the stainless positive pole/screw set? Will I see any change in performance versus the brass?

Also, any chance that there will be clear windows or Pyrex windows available soon?

Some that are into really high performance vaping swear they can notice a difference between brass and SS. I converted all my DIDs to SS and have never looked back (YMMV). For clear windows, depends on which sized DID. MMV has Kir Fanis clear tanks for Std/Shortie/Mini and Pyrex for Std/Shortie. Temon (D16) and Gemini don't have clear or Pyrex that I've seen.
 

Tonytiger1

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I've had my DID for a while now, and I'm loving both its performance and aesthetics on my Precise+18350. I'm currently using 500 mesh rolled solid and 32awg kanthal with a 3/2 wrap. This setup totally outperforms everything that I have ever used. I have the version that utilizes the brass positive pole/nuts, and although it's working perfectly for me, I can't stand the tarnish that inevitably comes. Is it worth it to pick up the stainless positive pole/screw set? Will I see any change in performance versus the brass?

Also, any chance that there will be clear windows or Pyrex windows available soon?

Give 30 gauge a try. Im sold.


Tony
 

kwalka

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I dont like anything about brass being exposed to juice (dont really want to go around about that issue again). I paid for shipping and the stainless pole and nuts. After a few days I put the brass pole back in and kept the stainless nuts. There is a scientific conductivity difference between the 2 metals. rwelscher commented on it in the Poldiac vid. There is a noticable current loss w the stainless pole. I even removed the wick and coil as one and put them back in, never switched the batt. So it was a 10 min back to back test, if you will. :2c:
 

kwalka

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You can measure the difference. I multi-metered both and there was a 0.05ohm difference in resistance.

There is no way I noticed that amount of difference. I am not saying that your claim isn't true, I just dont see how the difference in conductivity of the 2 metals equates to that small of a difference in ohms. I am going to have to measure and do it again. Thanks for the heads up.
 

Cloud Wizard

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I wnt Jim to make a brass center post that screws into the poldiac and goes up into the Gemini. Remove one more contact point.


Tony

If he comes out with the Hy-DID bases for our beloved Poldiacs you may actually get Silver plated brass (can't wait to see RW's eyes water when that video comes out :laugh:)
 

Cloud Wizard

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There is no way I noticed that amount of difference. I am not saying that your claim isn't true, I just dont see how the difference in conductivity of the 2 metals equates to that small of a difference in ohms. I am going to have to measure and do it again. Thanks for the heads up.

You should (I'm interested in hearing the results). Use a single strand of wire (doesn't matter what gauge) and config with hard loops to ensure equal length. Build'em both and hit them with the meter. Resistance is a product of distance through a medium and the center post is very short (other dimensions e.g. cross section are negligibly similar). Subtract the difference and see what ya get.

Edit: I just went back and measured just the posts (see pics below). Figure everything else would be the same so a lot of extra effort to rebuild.
 
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Tonytiger1

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If he comes out with the Hy-DID bases for our beloved Poldiacs you may actually get Silver plated brass (can't wait to see RW's eyes water when that video comes out :laugh:)

Lol. Yea I'm on the road I had my Gemini screwed all the way on the top cap. But now my top adjustment screw got to tight. I can't adjust it so I had to switch the large nuts around on the switch . Not sure how I can loosen it. Afraid to break it. But it's on the battery side. No problem making contact. But now I am leaving a little gap on the top. Not sure why it happen.


Tony
 

pAth77

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Some that are into really high performance vaping swear they can notice a difference between brass and SS. I converted all my DIDs to SS and have never looked back (YMMV). For clear windows, depends on which sized DID. MMV has Kir Fanis clear tanks for Std/Shortie/Mini and Pyrex for Std/Shortie. Temon (D16) and Gemini don't have clear or Pyrex that I've seen.

I have the standard DID. Both the clear windows and Pyrex are currently not available so hopefully they get a new batch in soon. I'm do have a clear window in right now, but I just wanna have spares just in case.

Give 30 gauge a try. Im sold.


Tony

32awg 3/2 wrap measures in at around 1.3-1.4Ω, which is perfect for me on the P+. I haven't used 30awg, but I have used 28awg. I've tried 5/4 and 6/5 coils (around 1.0-1.2Ω if I remember correctly), and that's just way to harsh for me. Plus, I chain vape, and the top cap would get pretty hot after the third rip.

As for the SS pole, I guess there's no real way for me to find out without ordering it. If there is a significant difference, then I guess I can drop down to 30 or 28awg. Thanks for the help guys!!!
 
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