New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[ukeman]

Getting my first DID in a minute... at the Post Office so tomorrow.

with my glass tank Genesis atomizers I do get some of the black into the juice after the wick gets broken in... so I don't like to not change out the wick... guess thats because I have lots of SS mesh too... but I like sweet juices and i guess that carbonizes especially with a sub 1.0 Ohm coil.

I haven't needed to clean my contacts yet... still firing like a champ. Currently using a Penelope (1.2 Ohms) and its just superb! the Cobra is killer on my BTO too, but looking forward to DID vaping.

 

[Dieseler]

Ukeman with my DID'S when the juice darkens and coil gets to much gunk.
I wait until tank is near empty and then pull wick out and take out the other screws.
Top of tank goes under running water and it flushes it out the screw holes nice and clean , i shake tank to get any remaining water out.
I never have to completely take tank apart and works well for me.
Mesh gets hand rub under running water and a recoil as kanthal is very cheap in large rolls.

With wick depending how bad it is sometimes during above process i leave mesh wick in when flushing tank , i then take toothbrush and scrub mesh (gently) with coil on it and suck up any water left in wick as i roll them with tiny center hold in mesh.

These DID20s (all i use are) very simple to recoil without hotspots with the wick already in.
Soon to have another as i await my 4th one.

 

[ukeman]

cool ... i also just ordered glass replacement tank for it from ibt.... so i can see whats goin on in there and glass because its probably going to be GREEN

Ukeman with my DID'S when the juice darkens and coil gets to much gunk.
I wait until tank is near empty and then pull wick out and take out the other screws.
Top of tank goes under running water and it flushes it out the screw holes nice and clean , i shake tank to get any remaining water out.
I never have to completely take tank apart and works well for me.
Mesh gets hand rub under running water and a recoil as kanthal is very cheap in large rolls.

With wick depending how bad it is sometimes during above process i leave mesh wick in when flushing tank , i then take toothbrush and scrub mesh (gently) with coil on it and suck up any water left in wick as i roll them with tiny center hold in mesh.

These DID20s (all i use are) very simple to recoil without hotspots with the wick already in.
Soon to have another as i await my 4th one.

 

[Hoey]

I am getting dry hits on my Gemini! and have to leave the fill screw out! I don't have to do that on my D20,D16 or D14.
How would you set up yours like mesh wise, size of kanthals or ribbons?? I got 28,30,32 kanthals and 0.7 ribbon, 0.6 is on its way.
I would love to have the fill screw in on my Gemini. so please educate this King of Noob! please please!

 

[Tonytiger1]

I am getting dry hits on my Gemini! and have to leave the fill screw out! I don't have to do that on my D20,D16 or D14.
How would you set up yours like mesh wise, size of kanthals or ribbons?? I got 28,30,32 kanthals and 0.7 ribbon, 0.6 is on its way.
I would love to have the fill screw in on my Gemini. so please educate this King of Noob! please please!

I leave mine out on both did and Gemini.


Tony

 

[Devonmoonshire]

I am getting dry hits on my Gemini! and have to leave the fill screw out! I don't have to do that on my D20,D16 or D14.
How would you set up yours like mesh wise, size of kanthals or ribbons?? I got 28,30,32 kanthals and 0.7 ribbon, 0.6 is on its way.
I would love to have the fill screw in on my Gemini. so please educate this King of Noob! please please!

On my Gemini I use about a three maybe four layer thick roll of 400 mesh with approximately an 18 gauge needle sized channel down the middle it is also cut short enough to have the top about 0.5mm below the center post in height and also about a quarter inch from the bottom of the tank. This allows for ample airflow, wicking and still being able to keep the fill screw in without a single dry hit.

Hope this info helps out Hoey
Sincerely;
Nate

 

[Dieseler]

I cut my mesh approx 1 and 1/2 inches tall by 2 and 5/8 inches width and roll with thin sewing needle then use stove flame process to oxidize. Then bottom is cut with scissors at 45 degree angle put in DID and trim the top even with top positive post.
Fill screw always stays in only come out to fill with syringe.

As a note when new mesh coil is installed i do not prime it with e-liquid i can easily watch it
self saturate itself quickly sitting in tank abd no dry burn hits when i vape. ; )

This is why i only use these well made DID'S thanks to Jim .

 

[dspin]

I am getting dry hits on my Gemini! and have to leave the fill screw out! I don't have to do that on my D20,D16 or D14.
How would you set up yours like mesh wise, size of kanthals or ribbons?? I got 28,30,32 kanthals and 0.7 ribbon, 0.6 is on its way.
I would love to have the fill screw in on my Gemini. so please educate this King of Noob! please please!

All genisis vape better without fill screws in, they need the air

 

[Uma]

On my Gemini I use about a three maybe four layer thick roll of 400 mesh with approximately an 18 gauge needle sized channel down the middle it is also cut short enough to have the top about 0.5mm below the center post in height and also about a quarter inch from the bottom of the tank. This allows for ample airflow, wicking and still being able to keep the fill screw in without a single dry hit.

Hope this info helps out Hoey
Sincerely;
Nate

Ditto.
Just last week, I too, encountered my first dry wick, using this same method as I've always used. The new mesh also didn't grey like it normally does when I hold it over the stovetop. It was also springier than usual. I had to remove the wick, and torch/quench 3x, then I did the season trick 3x with bic lighter and juice, and it's been fine since. It also stiffened the wick.
I think the different grades of mesh makes a big difference, and now I "totally get" why some peeps have wicking or hotspot problems now and then. Oh, and I had hotspot problems with this wick too, until it pulsated healed, but it took longer than usual. I usually don't have hotspot problems at all either. The mesh was different though.

 

[MiriamWTH]

All genisis vape better without fill screws in, they need the air

I dont agree with this, with my hollow wick in my DID if I take the fill screw out it over-wicks. With the screw in it is just perfect for me.

 

[ldwilliams.uk]

All of my DID's are, as created

 

[Uma]

I dont agree with this, with my hollow wick in my DID if I take the fill screw out it over-wicks. With the screw in it is just perfect for me.

I know right, same here. (minus the last wick I had problems with and it's still not "perfect" like my other wicks always were).

 

[Pete54]

I'm like Dspin on the air holes. I've never had a genny wick with the screw in. Maybe it's the ohms of the atty? I use 0.8Ω. I don't know .....
While I'm at it, how does a genny over wick? It's never happened to me either. Does the juice gather in the cap?

 

[ukeman]

My problem is top hot spot on coil.... on one of my hybrids in particular... getting my DID at the P.O. today as soon as i get a break...

 

[Uma]

I'm like Dspin on the air holes. I've never had a genny wick with the screw in. Maybe it's the ohms of the atty? I use 0.8Ω. I don't know .....
While I'm at it, how does a genny over wick? It's never happened to me either. Does the juice gather in the cap?

I bet you're right. My latest wick was on the dry side, until I seasoned it, and it was also a 0.8 ohm wrap. All my previous wraps have been in the 1.2 range... some as high as 2.4... but most in the 1.2.
When mine overwicked, it wouldn't produce much vapor, but would produce lots and lots of good flavor. I like balance. But the low-vapor always comes with a "dud" feeling, like when our carto's were dying, except of course, the dying cartos never had great flavor.

 

[Uma]

My problem is top hot spot on coil.... on one of my hybrids in particular... getting my DID at the P.O. today as soon as i get a break...

Just make sure your center tube is dry as a bone. (Cloud Wizard's the first (that I know of), that figured that trick out).
Also, if you quench your wick, be sure to dry it well (roll on papertowel and torch it too) before wrapping the coil or it will produce white hot spots, but then again, those white hot spots are fun when they sizzle, dry and explode lol.

 

[burnie71]

My problem is top hot spot on coil.... on one of my hybrids in particular... getting my DID at the P.O. today as soon as i get a break...

Carefull tweeking of the coil will stop that problem, just remember top coil is first in line it could be just a tad to loose or turns below are too tight. All must be equal! pull the wick out and dry burn a few times this will give a better indication of whats going on with coil, when all are equaly glowing then re-insert wick check and adjust if nessessery, once you have a good wick and coil going it will last for weeks just pull the wick now and then for a wash dryburn coil to remove gunk......its very well worth the time to get set up 100% for that long lasting setup.

 

[burnie71]

or it will produce white hot spots, but then again, those white hot spots are fun when they sizzle, dry and explode lol.

Uma this bit of your statement sounds a bit like Myth Busters watched them last night.

 

[overall]

I never leave my fill screws out. I also never have a dry hit.
I use 500 thread mesh rolled fairly solid with no center hole. I very lightly torch prior to rolling. I make the wick a little smaller than the wick hole. This allows air to enter the tank around the wick.
I am also playing with the ceramic wick in 2 of my DIDs. My first one is wrapped with 6mm ribbon 3/2 wraps came in at 0.8ohm. It has been going for a month with no maintenance at all.
My other ceramic wick I made last night. This one is coiled (using the hot wrap method) with 30 awg with a 3/4 wrap coming in at 1.4ohm.
I have to say that the ceramic wick creates a whole lot more vapor....less juicy though.
The hot wrap method does allow the flavor to come through right away. I will be trying this on my next ss wick build.

 

[Out Of The Ashes]

Anyone know if Jim has any plans on redesigning the Temon switch? I'm not a fan of it at all, its crunchy and the throw is very hard. I can't get the darn C clip off to cut the spring down to lighten the throw. I'm not sure that would fix the switch completly but might help.