New Protege Button Idea - Please Steal Me.

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them0nk

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I thought this would be a good new thread... to get more input.

Out of the other thread here is my idea on a chinese button replacement for the protege. As in swap-out-able part.

Casey & Steve, if you guys like it, i'll shoot you the designs. All i'd ask for is one completed... and if you REALLY like it, a prodigy v2 (haha i wish)



the gray is supposed to be plastic. there is 1 part missing from this, a 2 piece button, the contact disk, and a plastic piece that would mate with the current protege button

top view:



what do you guys think about that idea? i saw somewhere you guys like new ideas... here is a new one... to take away all the solder.

i mean this concept can be used by anyone... just throw me a bone if you have a heart.

edit: maybe PS could create a protege v2 with a thicker tube & better end cap threads + the button idea... would make for a kick ... indestructible 14500 mod.
 
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BrockJ

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Schweet. the now plastic button could have a small brass *nail like* insert to make the connection.

Nice drawing Monk. I was going to try and draw something like this at work yesterday but the work load is rather high right now. I think they'd frown on that. LOL

Here's another quickie. Instead of a resisitor you could use different metals for the button insert that would have higher or lower resistance thereby changing the output voltage without a lot of heat buildup. When you wanted to vape at a different voltage you'd simply change your button.

*Gotta get CAD on the home machine*

Again, Nice detail man....
 

CaSHMeRe

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Monk ... Great Idea bud ...

Today at the shop we were brainstorming and came up with a way, much like yours, except the brass contact posts were (V'ed) and we were using a disk/snap spring :) Difference of materials would be super important so they wouldn't arch/weld themselves together. We were thinking Brass and Aluminum ... :) Both are great conducters :)

Casey & Steve, if you guys like it, i'll shoot you the designs. All i'd ask for is one completed... and if you REALLY like it, a prodigy v2 (haha i wish)

O ... we would take care of ya mOnk if we end up using something like this :)

O, and Brock ... We tried different materials for the contact posts ... The highest voltage drop we saw was using A-1 Steel and it was roughly .25v under load ... Not much.

The MOST conductive (even higher than brass) was Aluminum and Copper :)

Have to run out to grab food with the wife. be back on a bit later to discuss further :)
 
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BrockJ

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I'm not talking about simple metals like brass and copper.

There's always Monel, Hastelloy, etc. Think Alloy...

Here's a small list of the conductivity of various metals

Aluminum 59
Brass 28
Cadmium 19
Chromium 55
Cobalt 16.3
Constantin 3.24
Copper:
Hard drawn 89.5
Annealed 100
Gold 65
Iron:
Pure 17.7
Cast 2-12
Wrought 11.4
Lead 7
Manganin 3.7
Mercury 1.66
Molybdenum 33.2
Nichrome 1.45
Nickel 12-16
Nickel silver 5.3(18%)
Phosphor bronze 36
Platinum 15
Silver 106
Steel 3-15
Tin 13
Titanium 5
Tungsten 28.9
Zinc 28.2



.
 
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them0nk

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Use the same ID (inside diameter) so I can purchase the switch set up for my current Protege!


was my entire idea :p

and actually... some of these parts would be a BRAT to make... here is the finished drawing blown up the best i could get it to look:



the TINY tapped hole is a 0-72... wtf i've never even USED one of those in 3 years of machining (then again 6-32's were as far as we'd go)... there is probably an easier way to have the button not ground out on something when you pushed it in...

i'm really happy that people are responding well to this!!!!!

Oh and good point about the welding thing... i wonder how long it would take brass/copper fittings like that to weld to each other though... which would ALMOST be funny haha...

Graphite has a huge voltage drop i thought... and why would someone want to drop the 3.7v on the protege :p (i know i know the material voltage drop would be for the big brother prodigy^2 <---steal that too! hahaha)

edit: i know a guy that worked at, and might have gone back to work for a MICRO part manufacturing company called Sorensen Engineering... they make little tiny freaking contacts for computers and such...
 
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MaxUT

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I notice your spring is positioned between the two contacts, could this cause a short if it tipped to the side?

You could use a polyurethane cylinder as a spring, maybe about 60A durometer, it's not conductive. They use this material for punch press strippers. Make it a hollow cylinder with a close fit in its recess, and if you need to remove it, just thread a screw into the hole to pull it out.
Acrotech, Inc. manufactures standard and custom K-Prene®urethane products

The flats on two contacts need to be precisely aligned in order to make a good connection with the disc. Maybe you could press them in as rounds and then spot face with an end mill, to get the faces exactly in the same plane.
 
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them0nk

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I notice your spring is positioned between the two contacts, could this cause a short if it tipped to the side?

You could use a polyurethane cylinder as a spring, maybe about 60A durometer, it's not conductive. They use this material for punch press strippers. Acrotech, Inc. manufactures standard and custom K-Prene®urethane products

The flats on two contacts need to be precisely aligned in order to make a good connection with the disc. Maybe you could press them in as rounds and then spot face with an end mill, to get the faces exactly in the same plane.

there is a hole in the design that would prohibit the spring from touching the contacts in the main housing where the spring resides...

i agree with the insert as rounds and spot facing idea, it was more of what i had in mind... i just didn't draw it that way cause it was a bit more of a pain to do. i actually intended the brass rounds to be a gooooood Press fit.

the measurements in the drawing are all rough and would need a bit of tweaking to make them actually work seemlessly with the protege. mind you i took them with a set of calipers with a dead battery haha, hey it was almost 2am :p

edit: there is also a small bore where the spring contacts to the contact disk, the RL spring would hopefully have a flat circular lead in to match it. that spring is also TINY... the hole it would fit into would be .125
 
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BrockJ

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Is Delrin conductive? I thought it was Derlin like gears are made from?

From DUPONT MSDS on Delrin
"POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE (PTFE)

Heating PTFE above 300 degrees C may liberate a fine particulate
fume. Inhalation may produce polymer fume fever, a temporary
flu-like condition with fever, chills, nausea, shortness of
breath, chest tightness, muscle or joint ache, and sometimes cough
and elevated white blood cell count. The symptoms are often
delayed 4 to 24 hours after exposure. These signs are generally
temporary, lasting 24-48 hours and resolve without further
complications. However, some individuals with repeated episodes
of polymer fume fever have reported persistent pulmonary effects.
Protection against polymer fume fever should also provide
protection against any potential chronic effects.

Exposure to decomposition products from PTFE heated above 400
degrees C may cause pulmonary inflammation, hemorrhage or edema.
These more serious consequences of exposure may occur from extreme
thermal decomposition of PTFE which can liberate fume particles,
and toxic gases (carbonyl fluoride, hydrogen fluoride, and other
fluorinated gases) especially under conditions of poor ventilation
and/or confined spaces. These decomposition products may
initially produce chest tightness or pain, chills, fever, nausea,
with shortness of breath, cough, wheezing and progression into
pulmonary edema. Edema may be delayed in onset and requires
medical treatment. In severe cases, if medical intervention is
delayed, pulmonary edema may become life threatening. Recovery is
generally complete within a few days; in some rare cases,
persistent lung function abnormalities have been reported.
Smokers must avoid contamination of tobacco with residual polymer from their hands or
from fumes, and should wash their hands before smoking"
 
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YoMike

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Delrin YoYo's how many do you want?

kickgroup.jpg
 

MaxUT

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Is Delrin conductive? I thought it was Derlin like gears are made from?

From DUPONT MSDS on Delrin
"POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE (PTFE)

Heating PTFE above 300 degrees C may liberate a fine particulate
fume. Inhalation may produce polymer fume fever, a temporary
flu-like condition...

< big snip >

...in some rare cases,
persistent lung function abnormalities have been reported.
Smokers must avoid contamination of tobacco with residual polymer from their hands or
from fumes, and should wash their hands before smoking"

Oh?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From Polytetrafluoroethylene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia :
In chemistry, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene which finds numerous applications. PTFE is most well known by the DuPont brand name Teflon.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From Polyoxymethylene plastic - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia :
Polyoxymethylene (commonly referred to as POM and also known as polyacetal or polyformaldehyde) is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. It is commonly known under DuPont's trade name Delrin.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yes, Delrin is used to make gears. It's also used to make the switch housings for Prodigys.
 

CaSHMeRe

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m0nk ...

That spring would have to be trapped somehow, with an insulation material around it (as to not accidentally ground out and fuse to the contact posts. We would also have to trap that round piece within delrin so it wouldn't ground out either.

I'm hoping to have drawings of our version Monday/Tuesday, at which point, I will post for you to take a look at. Again, we decided on a snap/disc spring, that would actually sit on top of the plastic. It would be protected via Delrin Shielding, with a Delrin Button :)

Brock ... Will take a look at all those materials to see if we can come up with something. Essentially, if we go the disc spring route, a different button COULD be used on whenever you wanted made out of whatever conductive material you want. This could solve the *no resistor* idea :)
 

them0nk

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San Bernardino, CA
i tried to accomplish make a place for the spring to reside in while the button was pushed:



(i highlighted the face that is actually about .015 lower than where the contacts are...)

and in the contact disk:



that spring isn't really drawn perfectly, it would need the flat ends of the spring for it to work correctly, so it didn't skew when the button was pushed down... i don't know where to find a list of crazy small but strong springs that would fit in that tiny space... the spring would have to fit inside .125 diameter and be strong enough to push the button back up thousands of times. not to mention it would need to be short enough to let the contact disk touch the contacts with out over compressing the spring. the idea with a urathane spring would work too i think.
 
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