New to the forum, new SVD

[Filmnazi]

So I've been lurking for a bit and I started vaping a couple of months ago with an ego purchased at a local shop. I finally decided to upgrade to a mod and 16 days from placing my order with fasttech my new SVD arrived. It worked great at first although I noticed a few minor differences in my unit as compared to pics and video reviews seen here and elsewhere online. First the screen, instead of being mirrored as I'd seen online it was smoke colored. Second the fire button wasn't white it was also smoke colored I'm not implying it is a fake because all of the packaging and markings look legit.

I was a bit trepidatious about ordering something like this from over seas but my local shop wanted $175 for the SVD kit and two batteries and charger. Obviously the price difference at fasttech won me over.

The SVD performed great giving full warm flavorful hits all day, right up to when it didn't. I was laying on my couch basking in the glow of my new toy when the fire button started blinking an ominous red. It was reading the iClear 30 at 0.0 ohms showing 0.0 A in SVD parlance. Run in circles scream and shout! I quickly tried the second iClear and my kanger MT3 both came up at 0.0 ohms. I posted a discussion about it on fasttech and tried a few things suggested by folks there to no avail. Fasttech support showed up in the discussion and I'll be opening a ticket with them to return the unit shortly.

What to do in the mean time? I went to the local shop and picked ap a Vamo V3 today and it is working great. I hate the way it looks compared to the SVD but at least it works! I may exchange the SVD instead of asking for my money back but not sure what the point of having two would be!

 

[Charlie C]

Sorry you had this issue with your PV.
This is one reason why I'd never buy anything from an overseas company.

Having said that one needs more than a single device; especially when going through the transition period.
I use three. This enables me to drip with one and have two flavors for my tanks.

Good luck with your device issues. The Vamo is a good unit for the price too.

 

[peter12345]

A very fancy resistance meter?

 

[Train2]

I got a FastTech SVD. And there's a LONG, VERY detailed thread somewhere comparing several different ones (down to the depth of the engraving), and determining pretty much that there ARE variances like those buttons, that do NOT indicate that it's a fake. I am very certain that it's an Innokin, they just have some of these differences in different runs or different manufacturing lines or something.

I've only seen the button light go red when the battery was dead.
Not to be silly - but did you change the battery for a fresh fully charged one?

If that's not it - check the battery connection post - in the top, where the battery touches the little round post. It is spring-loaded and may have gotten pressed down a touch too far, so that it's now not making a connection. USUALLY this symptom appears (on EGO's and VAMO's too) when you switch to a new topper or replace a coil - but who knows - it IS a common reason to get a 0 or error when you think you have a good coil...

 

[Fergie]

I hate the way it looks compared to the SVD but at least it works! I may exchange the SVD instead of asking for my money back but not sure what the point of having two would be!

Always a good idea to have a backup. My SVD fire button is smokey colour (Black) I think all the newer ones are. Screen is smokey/mirror depending on the light. Had mine for a few months, got it from Fastech as well and no problems so far, good luck.


Train is correct about the pin and the battery being really low.

 

[dice57]

Yeah, thought the battery needed replacing myself. Only time my button blinks on my Provari is when the battery has expended it's charge. I get an error code on the display for any problems with my build or circuitry. now that you have some good pvd's I'd recommend looking into a good rba. Check out the micro and nano build threads, they are mind blowing. Just did the Nano Volcano build for my Russian rba, we have lift off. OMG what a Vape.

 

[JeannieB360]

Welcome to the Forum!

 

[kerz]

Welcome!!!

 

[Filmnazi]

Thanks everyone for the replies-I have tried replacing the battery and the center pin is not stuck

 

[Arnie H]

Welcome aboard. The Vamo is a good device.

 

[Train2]

<----stumped.
Bummer.
Hopefully, FastTech will live up to what I've heard - that they "make good" when there's a problem, and you have to only return to Florida in order to get a replacement. I'd still go for an SVD. I have a VAMO and an SVD, and I like em both, but I kind of like the SVD more. It's mostly about the look, and quality - threading in particular. My VAMO is a V2, not a V3, so there have been improvements to a couple things that aren't quite right...
But, for instance, I only put ProTanks on the SVD, because with a VAMO, you have to deal with adapters or risk your 510 threads.

Anyway - Hope it works out for the best for ya!!

 

[Filmnazi]

Quick update: fasttech did make good... Eventually! They just issued a gift card so I'm about to order a new SVD. The vamo has been great it's starting to show the brass color through the chrome though.

 

[ZeroOhm]

Just seen this thread while browsing the forums, did you sort the problem out with your original purchase? From what i read it sounds like a short at the 510 pin, if you look carefully you should see a white insulator below the brass centre pin it looks like a washer. If it has come away you can use an O ring to repair it. I wouldnt buy another if i was giving advice.


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[jhelliwell]

You've got a hard short. The brass connector on the end of your SVD that connects it to an atomiser may be shorting against the casing. The advice given above about putting an O-ring over the connector to sit underneath it is a good one, it will insulate the short. You could also try a small pair of tweezers and grasp the connector, try to centralise it and slightly lift it out GENTLY, but do not rotate it, you might risk breaking off the cable that it attaches to inside (which is another possible reason you would get 0.0R on the readout)

Mine started doing it. Either reading NON or 0.0R. Hope you fixi it

 

[ZeroOhm]

You've got a hard short. The brass connector on the end of your SVD that connects it to an atomiser may be shorting against the casing. The advice given above about putting an O-ring over the connector to sit underneath it is a good one, it will insulate the short. You could also try a small pair of tweezers and grasp the connector, try to centralise it and slightly lift it out GENTLY, but do not rotate it, you might risk breaking off the cable that it attaches to inside (which is another possible reason you would get 0.0R on the readout)

Mine started doing it. Either reading NON or 0.0R. Hope you fixi it

Got any tweezers geezer?


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