Nickel Builds on RTA's.....

[sos2001]

My ipv4 will be here today...a couple hundred feet of ni200 on Tuesday. The question is, what rta has been the best or most reliable to build on with nickel? I just realized that my only single coil tanks in my current inventory are Subtanks and Infinite kayfun 4. I've heard horror stories about the K4 being very unstable with nickel.

I've seen some YouTube vids, but I'm not sure some of these guys know what they are doing.

 

[KenD]

My only single coil RTAs are a Russian 91% and the Subtank Mini. They both work great. However, I haven't had any problems with dual coils either (Fogger v4 and v5), but I use tempered ni200 and machine screws to make uniform coils.

 

[Nomoreash]

I've been running nickel single coil builds on my Kayfuns since the DNA40 came out with no issues, make sure the coil is secured tightly under the screws but that goes for any nickel build. If yours has an adjustable center pin if possible adjust it all the way so there's no chance of any play or it moving. I do 28ga contact coils and never had an issue but it's generally recommended to do spaced coils with nickel. The most important thing is to make sure your build is solid and contact points are well secured as even the slightest variance in resistance can be a potential issue.

 

[Highwayman1224]

Been very happy with nickel builds in my Lemo's, both the original & the v2.

 

[Treeburner1983]

Love my Lemo 2 for nickel builds, and I'm having no problem using the post holes as long as I reinforce the trapped leads with stainless steel wire through the post hole as well. Most recently using twisted 28g nickel w/ 32g kanthal and that secures through the post holes without a problem as well.

-Treeburner

 

[Vatic]

inline dC V4, Love it.

 

[TheBloke]

The Lemo 1 and 2 decks are ideal for Nickel - loads of room for long spaced coils of any diameter you might wish. Single coil only (by design) but that too is fine for Nickel where single coil is the more common build (though not exclusive, especially on the IPV4 which will go down to 0.05 resistance and where Pioneer4You actually recommend the range 0.05 - 0.10.)

I too found the post hole issue with normal Ni200 wire, so I now use the screw heads instead - capturing the wires under the screw heads. RIP Tripper has a quick video demonstrating the process of a Ni200 coil on the Lemo, using the screws not the post holes, where he gets it done in a couple of minutes.

I initially had enormous problems using my Lemo 1 for TC, which I then discovered was quite common in that RTA. The 510 connection was not stable, causing resistance to jump about. Not hugely noticeable with Kanthal, but a killer with Ni200 TC vapes. The fix was to unscrew the 510 pin, then put a tiny o-ring (2mm x 1mm I believe it is) on the thread and screw it back in. That causes the pin to stick out a little further, and ensures it doesn't screw/unscrew. Tighten it back up enough to keep it in place but not super hard. Since then it's been vaping OK for me. Fortunately the required o-ring actually comes with the Lemo, because there are two of them on the little keyring screwdriver that is supplied with both Lemo 1 and 2! I can find a link to further discussion of that if it applies to anyone here.

The Lemo 2 on the other hand has worked first time, every time in my TC vapes. It's currently my prime TC RTA, and I'm not sure I've even done a Kanthal build in it since I had it (it arrived same time as my IPV4.)

So I would highly recommend the Lemo 2 and I'm now strongly considering buying a second one.

I've also done a couple of builds on my beloved Aqua v2s - my all time favourite RTA. It's not ideally suited to nickel builds because the deck is a little cramped so you can't easily do long spaced coils. But it does vape fine with nickel if you manage it. I'm working on a mod to the deck whereby I unscrew the posts and enable wiring coils directly into the deck, giving me loads more room for larger coils. With that setup I plan to try some long single coil builds (straddling both air holes), similar to what I do in the Lemo.

I haven't even tried my UD Goliath or Goblin yet, because their build decks are very restricted and I can't imagine I'll be able to get satisfactory spaced coil(s) in there.

I also have a Kanger Subtank Mini with RTA deck but I'd heard the Subtanks weren't highly recommended for TC so I've not tried yet. (That might be just relating to their Ni200 coils, though.) Ditto I've not tried the RTA decks I have for my Smok GCT or VCT tanks. I did once try the Smok NI200 coils in a Smok GCT and that went OK - though I had to put the temp up over 500 to get a good vape. I only had one new Ni200 coil left so I haven't bothered trying again yet.

 

[TheBloke]

Love my Lemo 2 for nickel builds, and I'm having no problem using the post holes as long as I reinforce the trapped leads with stainless steel wire through the post hole as well. Most recently using twisted 28g nickel w/ 32g kanthal and that secures through the post holes without a problem as well.

I finally got around to making some twisted Ni200 wire the other day, and I did the same gauges, but both Ni200 - 28G + 30G Ni200 (both 'hard finish' wire.) I've not tried Ni200 + K yet.

My question is, is there anything I can do to make the wire less springy? I love working with plain Ni200 because it's so malleable. So much nicer than most Kanthal, I can just sculpt it however I want. But that all goes away with my twisted wire, which is even worse than plain Kanthal.

Is there anything I can do to the twisted wire to make it a bit less springy and a bit more malleable? I think I heard that people torching the twisted wire - do you do that? If so, do you know if I have to have a blow torch or could I, for example, hold it over the open flame of my stove? I don't know if that's hot enough of course. I looked at blow torches recently but they were surprisingly expensive (at least £20 / $30) for something I'd only be using to de-spring twisted wire

 

[KenD]

I finally got around to making some twisted Ni200 wire the other day, and I did the same gauges, but both Ni200 - 28G + 30G Ni200 (both 'hard finish' wire.) I've not tried Ni200 + K yet.

My question is, is there anything I can do to make the wire less springy? I love working with plain Ni200 because it's so malleable. So much nicer than most Kanthal, I can just sculpt it however I want. But that all goes away with my twisted wire, which is even worse than plain Kanthal.

Is there anything I can do to the twisted wire to make it a bit less springy and a bit more malleable? I think I heard that people torching the twisted wire - do you do that? If so, do you know if I have to have a blow torch or could I, for example, hold it over the open flame of my stove? I don't know if that's hot enough of course. I looked at blow torches recently but they were surprisingly expensive (at least £20 / $30) for something I'd only be using to de-spring twisted wire

You can torch/heat it up, which basically makes it annealed. Might as well just get some annealed ni200 wire.

 

[TheBloke]

You can torch/heat it up, which basically makes it annealed. Might as well just get some annealed ni200 wire.

I think that's what I already have - isn't annealed the same as Hard Finish?

I have two kinds of Ni200. The first kind I bought is called Soft Finish and is indeed very soft. Then I bought some Hard Finish which is, indeed, a little harder and therefore more resilient.

I thought the later was also known as annealed?

If so, then when it gets twisted it still gets springy as hell, nothing like it was when it was two individual strands. I suppose it's somewhat inevitable with two strands that can move against each other. But I was sure I read somewhere, when people were talking about twisting wire, that there was a step that would make it less springy.

 

[Hammy75]

On the ST Mini RBA deck I use 2 strand drill twisted 32awg ni200 from lightning vapes. I do a spaced coil with 6 wraps around a 2.8mm drill bit. Comes out at about 0.2 ohmsish. I make sure to tighten it as much as possible with the screws then check it again for a loose connection by tugging on the end. If the coil moves at all I tighten it more. Works great.

I use the same method with the Lemo 2 but it's harder to trap the wire under the screws and get a tight connection. Once you get it it's great. I find the twisted wire is a lot easier to rewick then a 10 wrap 28awg. The 28 works well too but more messing with it while threading the cotton.

I haven't used my 30awg much yet but will mess around with it when I find the time/desire. Good luck and remember it's well worth it once you get a solid build down.

 

[sos2001]

Thanks for the input. I conquered kanthal pretty quickly. Looks like a learning curve again. Just wish finesse was my strong suit...but it is not. Gonna have to learn not to be ham handed. My sister in law says all males in my family have freakishly large fingers. Must be gentle with these nickel coils!!!!!!!

 

[KenD]

I think that's what I already have - isn't annealed the same as Hard Finish?

I have two kinds of Ni200. The first kind I bought is called Soft Finish and is indeed very soft. Then I bought some Hard Finish which is, indeed, a little harder and therefore more resilient.

I thought the later was also known as annealed?

If so, then when it gets twisted it still gets springy as hell, nothing like it was when it was two individual strands. I suppose it's somewhat inevitable with two strands that can move against each other. But I was sure I read somewhere, when people were talking about twisting wire, that there was a step that would make it less springy.

Tempered is hardened, annealed is the softer type. I only have tempered (springy, more stable) from stealthvape so can't really say anything about "real" annealed ni200, but I know that mine turned soft and malleable (didn't like it) when I messed up my settings/coil (not sure which) and got the coil glowing by mistake.

 

[roxynoodle]

So far I've only tried tc with my Erlkonigin, and its going well.

Steam Tuners sells a part that replaces the spring in the k 4 to make it stable for tc. I have one so that will be my next experiment.

 

[KenD]

Got a Goblin clone today and put ni200 coils in it. A pain, not so much with the small deck as with the posts, but I managed. Tempered ni200 and machine screws are a great help.

 

[TheBloke]

Got a Goblin clone today and put ni200 coils in it. A pain, not so much with the small deck as with the posts, but I managed. Tempered ni200 and machine screws are a great help.

Ah good to hear! I've had a Goblin clone from FT for a few days but not tried it properly yet.

So you replace stock screws with machine screws with better heads? Where do you get them from - got any good links for cheap/convenient deals (multi packs or big packs), or do you buy them locally?

I bought some bags of very cheap screws from FT but, again, haven't really tried them yet. Also I assumed they were just as cheap and basic as the screws I get with my clones.

I have noticed that M screws below M3 are quite hard to come by. I can't find them in any hardware stores, only online. I bought some brass M2 and M2.5 washers, and some brass M3 screws for a mod to my Aqua v2 that I'm working on. Length was another issue I found - most screws I saw were usually longer than a deck would need - and also head size, again too big. I think my M3 screws are 6mm long in total, with a 5.6mm wide head, which is pretty big for a post screw. Probably I'd need M2 or M2.5 screws for most posts, and their heads would be smaller, but I'm not sure if small enough?

 

[KenD]

Ah good to hear! I've had a Goblin clone from FT for a few days but not tried it properly yet.

So you replace stock screws with machine screws with better heads? Where do you get them from - got any good links for cheap/convenient deals (multi packs or big packs), or do you buy them locally?

I bought some bags of very cheap screws from FT but, again, haven't really tried them yet. Also I assumed they were just as cheap and basic as the screws I get with my clones.

I have noticed that M screws below M3 are quite hard to come by. I can't find them in any hardware stores, only online. I bought some brass M2 and M2.5 washers, and some brass M3 screws for a mod to my Aqua v2 that I'm working on. Length was another issue I found - most screws I saw were usually longer than a deck would need - and also head size, again too big. I think my M3 screws are 6mm long in total, with a 5.6mm wide head, which is pretty big for a post screw. Probably I'd need M2 or M2.5 screws for most posts, and their heads would be smaller, but I'm not sure if small enough?

No, I wrap the coils on machine screws (M3 usually, M4 if the build deck allows it. Trying to find something in a size between those two). Gives very uniform coils, which is pivotal when using dual coils. The screws on the Goblin build deck (mine at least, from the Focalecig group buy) are very sharp so one must secure the leads extremely carefully. My coils are certainly not pretty, but they work just fine (though I gotta admit that the Fogger v4 works better, but sadly it's prone to leaking. A very difficult atty to wick correctly that one).

 

[Vooper]

No need for machine screws with wire as soft as nickel, just wrap a contact coil, gently pull the coils apart from either end, then gently push them all together again.

Perfectly spaced coil!

 

[TheBloke]

No, I wrap the coils on machine screws (M3 usually, M4 if the build deck allows it. Trying to find something in a size between those two). Gives very uniform coils, which is pivotal when using dual coils. The screws on the Goblin build deck (mine at least, from the Focalecig group buy) are very sharp so one must secure the leads extremely carefully. My coils are certainly not pretty, but they work just fine (though I gotta admit that the Fogger v4 works better, but sadly it's prone to leaking. A very difficult atty to wick correctly that one).

Ahhh I see, sorry I completely misunderstood the purpose.

That's an interesting idea, I never thought of that. I use a Kuro Koiler set to do standard coils then pull them apart / push them back together as Vooper just mentioned.

The only problem I have is when pulling them apart, I haven't yet found a nice way to do that without grabbing both ends with my fingers and pulling which always bends the wire at both ends which I then have to re-straighten. When I pull on each leg to expand the coil, the legs end up pulling outwards such that they're no longer at right angles / 90° to the rest of the coils, but more like 45° or even less.

No big deal given how malleable Nickel is (at least when not twisted), but it would be nice to find a better way.

 

[KenD]

No need for machine screws with wire as soft as nickel, just wrap a contact coil, gently pull the coils apart from either end, then gently push them all together again.

Perfectly spaced coil!

At least with tempered ni200 it's easier. Also, when dealing with decks as small as the one on the Goblin it might be difficult to get the wraps pulled apart evenly enough while keeping the coil as a whole short enough. I'm thinking you'd easily end up with one or more wraps touching. If nothing else it'll be more difficult to get (near) perfectly uniform coils when using duals. In any case, wrapping on a machine screw is no more difficult than wrapping on any other type of rod, and machine screws are readily available. I just can't see any good reason not to use them.