Nickel Builds on RTA's.....
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Well, I have built my first ni200 coil. Came out at .11. 28 gauge, 8 wraps, 2.5mm on the Subtank mini. Got it on the ipv4 @ 22J @ 400 degrees. So far so good. Gonna play with it some this evening.
Built up the Goliath RTA last night with dual 28g coils, 10 wraps each 2.5mm id coming out to 0.078ohm total. It was a little tough fitting the chimney over such long coils, but after raising the coils and bringing them nearer the posts, the chimney just fit.
40J at 420°F gives a superb vape with massive clouds but also lots of flavor. The temperature control is working well, the only downside is I'm easily vaping 1ml/hr using the Goliath, so my VaporFlask and Lemo 2 will still get some use throughout the day.
-Treeburner
40J at 420°F gives a superb vape with massive clouds but also lots of flavor. The temperature control is working well, the only downside is I'm easily vaping 1ml/hr using the Goliath, so my VaporFlask and Lemo 2 will still get some use throughout the day.
-Treeburner
There are available M3.5 screws, I've seen them on Ebay and there's an old fashioned hardware store here in Austin that sells all kinds of metric screws; in brass, stainless steel, zinc-plated, black finish.
I get very good vaping on nickel coil builds with my Tobeco Kayfun V4 RTAs. The resistance stays rock solid stable and consistent. Excellent flavor and vape quality!
I do have Lemo 2 on order though, so many folks are raving about it these days.
I can't find them here in Sweden, and didn't find any when visiting my family back in Finland a week ago. I did hear about a shop here that specializes in screws and should have US sizes. What might a US size (and what are they called) between M3 and M4 be? I just need a couple, and ordering a bunch and possibly paying a lot for postage isn't appealing :-/
24 hours into my first nickel build and the ipv4 and my humble build have been great.
Not sure whether to be tickled or semi-uneasy......
Not sure whether to be tickled or semi-uneasy......
Out of interest have you tried filing/sanding the end of the screws to make them flatter/smoother? I was wondering if I should try that with some of my atty screws.
I was just thinking about doing it. Did a new build and kept clipping the leads by tightening the screws. Was very close to throwing the Goblin at the wall
I was just thinking about doing it. Did a new build and kept clipping the leads by tightening the screws. Was very close to throwing the Goblin at the wall
Yeah it's so frustrating! It usually takes me a while just getting a coil I'm happy with, so then when it breaks trying to put it in it drives me crazy.
It's been better since I started doing twisted wire. But then the wire is so much thicker, I get the other problem of not being able to fit coils in!
M3.5 which is 3.5 millimeters is equal to 0.14 inches.
A #6 SAE or standard US screw is 0.1380 inches while a #8 SAE screw is 0.1640 inches.
I was just thinking about doing it. Did a new build and kept clipping the leads by tightening the screws. Was very close to throwing the Goblin at the wall
Several of the reviews on YouTube recommend placing the wire underneath the screw head instead of using the screw post hole.
Nickel is so soft that they were having the same issue you are, the end of the screw cutting the wire.
Plus the length of the coil's legs will be less. This method also ensures a much better electrical contact so the resistance remains stable.
The coil(s) will sit somewhat higher off the deck of the RDA but that can be adjusted.
It appears that the coil screw heads on the Goblin RDA are certainly large enough to capture the wire with no issues.
Has anyone here tried Ni201 for RTA's? I have yet to get my hands on any, but I've heard it's better in some ways? Perhaps stronger, like tempered?
Excerpt from corrosionmaterials.com:
Also I ordered some tempered flat ribbon Ni200 wire, with my experience with ribbon wire I have yet to have it get cut by the post screws plus very flavorful. Would ribbon be a bad idea for RTA's?
Thanks
Excerpt from corrosionmaterials.com:
Also I ordered some tempered flat ribbon Ni200 wire, with my experience with ribbon wire I have yet to have it get cut by the post screws plus very flavorful. Would ribbon be a bad idea for RTA's?
Thanks
I haven't seen it offered at any of the vape suppliers. Not on Ebay either.
It's only available in very large spool quantities. Too expensive to buy.
Plus since we're doing temperature control, with wet wicks and such the temperature won't exceed 600F.
It's already difficult enough getting enough coils in to bump the resistance up with round nickel, ribbon sounds like a terrible idea.
I feel like it would be difficult to wrap around the screw heads on the Goblin (mine at least). I'm gonna try sanding the screw ends a bit, and if that doesn't work I might just get some titanium wire (would also make it easier to fit coils). In a worst case scenario I'll just use it for kanthal builds.
You don't have to do a 360 deg. wrap, most of the time I'm only able to get about 30% of the wire captured, but it works.
Have you tried going under the screw heads? If not, give it a try; hey if RipTrippers that crazy Hillbilly from "Somewhere USA" can do it, I'll be you can!
Have you tried going under the screw heads? If not, give it a try; hey if RipTrippers that crazy Hillbilly from "Somewhere USA" can do it, I'll be you can!
I haven't tried, but I foresee two problems. First, the screw head is almost flush to the screw body. There's very little material to trap the wire. Second, it would make the leads considerably longer. Might give it a try though if I can't smothen the screw ends. This is the first atty where I've had problems with post holes.You don't have to do a 360 deg. wrap, most of the time I'm only able to get about 30% of the wire captured, but it works.
Have you tried going under the screw heads? If not, give it a try; hey if RipTrippers that crazy Hillbilly from "Somewhere USA" can do it, I'll be you can!
Sanding the ends of the screws definitely helped (though I still need to work a bit more on one of the screws. It's still a tiny build deck so difficult to build on.
Today I finally cracked open the Goliath - and I'm loving it! It's jumped right into my top three tanks alongside the Lemo 2 and Aqua v2.
This was a bunch of firsts for me - first Goliath build, first proper Rayon wick, and first time I've built a first time coil on a first time tank that's worked first time
No breaking of wire, no shorts, no leaks, no wicking problems, no problem positioning the coil, no need to make a second coil at any point, no problems with resistance or with TC.
And especially gratifying as I was, as usual, trying to go outside the box - I always try to make a coil just a bit too fancy, a bit too big, and end up paying for it for hours and hours. In this case I was pushing things by trying to put a large single spaced coil onto the Goliath's smallish deck which is clearly intended to be dual coil. And cripes, it only went and worked!
@ThunderDan you'll remember that's what I was asking about on this tank - it works well! And thus, once again, I am glad I ignored your recommendation Sorry bud!
For that gift, the Goliath shall remain ever in my heart! OK it still took me nearly an hour but it was a fun nearly-an-hour, something I can't often say about my struggles to get a good build.
Most importantly, it's vaping really rather nicely and TC is working great. I thus recommend the Goliath as a great TC tank! The accessible deck and filling method is particularly nice - I hate to say it, but a big improvement over the same concept in the Aqua v2. It's so nice to see a tank that's clearly had a lot of thought and care put into its design - not just another "err, four posts and a hole in the bottom?"
Bare Naked Coil:
Wicked (Rayon):
This was a bunch of firsts for me - first Goliath build, first proper Rayon wick, and first time I've built a first time coil on a first time tank that's worked first time
No breaking of wire, no shorts, no leaks, no wicking problems, no problem positioning the coil, no need to make a second coil at any point, no problems with resistance or with TC.
And especially gratifying as I was, as usual, trying to go outside the box - I always try to make a coil just a bit too fancy, a bit too big, and end up paying for it for hours and hours. In this case I was pushing things by trying to put a large single spaced coil onto the Goliath's smallish deck which is clearly intended to be dual coil. And cripes, it only went and worked!
@ThunderDan you'll remember that's what I was asking about on this tank - it works well!
And thus, once again, I am glad I ignored your recommendation Sorry bud!For that gift, the Goliath shall remain ever in my heart! OK it still took me nearly an hour but it was a fun nearly-an-hour, something I can't often say about my struggles to get a good build.
Most importantly, it's vaping really rather nicely and TC is working great. I thus recommend the Goliath as a great TC tank! The accessible deck and filling method is particularly nice - I hate to say it, but a big improvement over the same concept in the Aqua v2. It's so nice to see a tank that's clearly had a lot of thought and care put into its design - not just another "err, four posts and a hole in the bottom?"
- Twisted Ni200, two-strand 29G "soft finish"
- 11 wraps, 2.5mm, 0.14Ω
- 410°F, 40J (mostly, have experimented 380-420° and 30-50J)
- Digby's Mum's Custard
Bare Naked Coil:
Wicked (Rayon):
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