Hi i have an idea on a mod i would like to make but have no idea on how to make it without wires or solders... can somebody give me an idea on how to make a circuit with just the battery case. thanks.
No wires or soldering... how?
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i'm still scratching my beard trying to figure out why someone would want to avoid key components in an electrical device lol. an aversion to wire? I think maybe trying to design those components out of a mod would over-complicate the plumbing somewhat...it only sounds simpler..
Primary issues would be machining the parts in such a way that everything fits and continues to fit and contact continues to be made during use. very few devices are truely solder and wire free..you do have to connect the center post of the batt connector to the battery somehow after all. and that challenge may not require wire and solder..but i'd call it the preferred method
The only reason to go solderless and wireless is to avoid the usage of a pushbutton, which will degrade and eventually stop working after a while. I prefer just to change the pushbutton ;-) or actually, I didn't use a mod for long enough to break it, usually I create a new one every month (or less)
With one of the mods I made (although it still had wiring) I used a spring loaded Pin as the button to make the centre contact with the atty, there really wasn't much chance of 'that' button ever degrading or needing to be replaced but unfortunately it was a four year old Black and Decker screwdriver that had seen a lot of use. So I had needed new batteries for it and the batteries it used were hard to find anywhere, so that mod was given up with.
I think a few devices use a manual connect button (screwdriver and Super T come to mind) but i think both use a wire/solder to the atty center conductor..it's virtually impossible to eliminate all wire and solder without really overcomplicating the soup
a power screwdriver mod? excellent!
how'd you keep the atty and cart from spinning in your mouth tho? seems like it'd be hard to vape
joking of course LOL!
Super-T1 has no wires - atty connection is outter shell and solid 'pin' center post.
The battery (+) side is pressed up to the center post of the atty connector by the electrically isolated spring at the bottom.
When you press up on the bottom button, you compress the spring and make (-) contact to the bottom of the batt and the shell of the device - ultimately the outter threads of the atty.
Only "wire" involved is the spring
The battery (+) side is pressed up to the center post of the atty connector by the electrically isolated spring at the bottom.
When you press up on the bottom button, you compress the spring and make (-) contact to the bottom of the batt and the shell of the device - ultimately the outter threads of the atty.
Only "wire" involved is the spring
he he......I am not sure but I think it might have been the only mod that 'really' was a screwdriver, although when I had finished modding it, it looked more like a penguin or south park kenny....lol.
Not Really
Its actually the oposite...Why would you want to put solder around all the liquid, heat, and manual use(for some 500 to 1000 pushes a day) when you can easily make a mechanical connection? The solder is SURE to fail eventually...The solder points are also varying draws causing inconsistancy in Volts and Amps negotiating Mah and atomizer issues... It wont be long where you will be able to see the differences
Not Really
Totally disagree. Since most mods are sealed the solder from it is not around the juice so thats a non-issue. You are aware that there is solder in the atomizer though..right?
A solder joints primary purpose is to provide conductivity and no mechanical connection can compete. A mechanical connection will also fail long before a proper solder joint.
A solder join will provide far more consistency than a mechanical connection can ever possibly achieve.
So..I agree with all your points, you just have them backwards
You just explained why no switched device, anywhere, ever, was a good design, and why every electronic device in existence more complicated than a Leyden Jar is a waste of money.Not Really
Switches degrade with time and use, yes. But how *much* time is the critical factor. Most mods are hastening that day by using under-sized switches, but a well-built switch is good for hundreds of thousands of activations inside its rating envelope.
There's an elegance to the switchless and solderless designs. But there's no reason to limit ourselves strictly to that set of rules.
--Dave
+1Totally disagree. Since most mods are sealed the solder from it is not around the juice so thats a non-issue. You are aware that there is solder in the atomizer though..right?
A solder joints primary purpose is to provide conductivity and no mechanical connection can compete. A mechanical connection will also fail long before a proper solder joint.
A solder join will provide far more consistency than a mechanical connection can ever possibly achieve.
So..I agree with all your points, you just have them backwards
I agree that a "mechanical" connection is fine for those that want to replace parts at home , but if it's mechanical it'll certainly need replacing.
They require a higher degree of accuracy to work and hence open to more failures.
First, Most all switches are mechanical, be they commercially mass produced encased switches we see all over the boards and in our mods or produced by the modder such as in the Super T or GG. Mass produced mechanical encased switches fail primarily because the electrical arc slowly erodes the contacts and one can not access them to clean and/or replace them. That is why the rated mechanical life of commerical switches is much higher then their rated electrical life.
On the Super T's switch design, it has a replaced and cleanable brass contact, it's theoretical life span is indefinite.
Second, there is nothing wrong with using solder or wires as far as reliability IF done properly. I suspect why solder has received a bad reputation on the boards is primarily through poor design where the wires and/or solder joints are improperly soldered or where they are under stress from movement or load. If soldering is good enough for the aircraft industry, it is more then good enough for a pv!
On the Super T's switch design, it has a replaced and cleanable brass contact, it's theoretical life span is indefinite.
Second, there is nothing wrong with using solder or wires as far as reliability IF done properly. I suspect why solder has received a bad reputation on the boards is primarily through poor design where the wires and/or solder joints are improperly soldered or where they are under stress from movement or load. If soldering is good enough for the aircraft industry, it is more then good enough for a pv!
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This is the same GG that used a metal button for positive and a metal body for ground?
Sorry..off topic..my bad
Totally disagree. Since most mods are sealed the solder from it is not around the juice so thats a non-issue. You are aware that there is solder in the atomizer though..right?
A solder joints primary purpose is to provide conductivity and no mechanical connection can compete. A mechanical connection will also fail long before a proper solder joint.
A solder join will provide far more consistency than a mechanical connection can ever possibly achieve.
So..I agree with all your points, you just have them backwards
Then I guess the SEALED mods I have that leak juice all over and dont work any more becase of failed soldering are really great designs???
Thanks for clearing that up for me...You made your own point on the solder in atomizers??? Even when soldered ther is still a mechanical mechanism to complete that failable solder joint...Therefore switches are rated at how many uses are assumed before failure...A mechanical switch witout solder requires cleaning only not resoldering or,( for most people that dont ahve soldering irons), replacement...
Drew
If your sealed mods are leaking then perhaps you should get better mods and if the solder failed then either it was soldered on a movable part or the solder was poorly done.
I understand you are selling a mod that I would guess, based on your disinformation, is solder-less, but it's not an opinion that a soldered connection provides better conductivity. It's a simple fact.
A mechanical solution can work perfectly well, but to pretend they are somehow superior to a soldered solution is self serving and ridiculous.
Better than my Stick and my Prodigy...I designed my Mod with the idea of the Mechanical switch because of my experience with my other mods...I also own a GG,Screwdirver, and a Chuck..all great mods...Inever said here mine was or wasnt better...I just said that a mechanical switch is a MUCH better way to go based on my experiences....I worked as designer and developer as a Mechanical Engineer with Johnson Controls World Services for many years and designed and developed the Medasis Building ops system which icorporated computer controling to mechanical equipment...In adition to being a Journeyman Electrician to earn my way through school for a Mechanical Engineering Degree...I also have a Black, Blue , and Red Seal in Engineers Licenses...So I think I might just understand the difference between Mechanical and Electrical connections and there properties...So your comments may impress some but I challenge you to show me an example of a better soldered button that will out last a mechanical button and be more easily serviced and I will gladly streak but naked on TV with an apology written on my Bum...Have a great day...
Drew
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