Noisy cricket.

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CCarr33

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I'm enjoying the light weight of this, about the same size as my Abaddon, just a bit shorter. But holy $#% mine has some sharp edges on the bottom, sliced my thumb wide open before I realized it was even sharp! Going to have to carefully clean the bottom edges up.

Running single coil Haze tank on it about 1 ohm with a crapton.. Quite nice!
A tank? That just sounds ludicrously dangerous, Am I wrong?

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ccwaters

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A tank? That just sounds ludicrously dangerous, Am I wrong?

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The bottom edge of the Noisy cricket, not a tank, though I have some of those as well that are quite sharp. I was actually rubbing a little juice residue of the bottom of the mod. No idea if all the Crickets are like that, but mine is really sharp.

Looks like a nice mod But is the circuit complete by the button connection tapping the top of the battery or is there something sat on top of the battery to stop arcing?

Works just like hundreds of other mechs, none of which I've ever had any issues with arcing. Also not building super low resistance so the chance of arcing/hot button issues is very low.
 

CCarr33

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The bottom edge of the Noisy cricket, not a tank, though I have some of those as well that are quite sharp. I was actually rubbing a little juice residue of the bottom of the mod. No idea if all the Crickets are like that, but mine is really sharp.



Works just like hundreds of other mechs, none of which I've ever had any issues with arcing. Also not building super low resistance so the chance of arcing/hot button issues is very low.
I own a Noisy Cricket, I just think it's a BAD idea to put any tank on a hybrid adapter, especially dual series box with a hybrid adapter.

I just don't want you to blow your face off.

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ccwaters

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I own a Noisy Cricket, I just think it's a BAD idea to put any tank on a hybrid adapter, especially dual series box with a hybrid adapter.

I just don't want you to blow your face off.

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Thanks for the thought, however, any atomizer with a protruding fixed 510 pin is fine, be it RDA, RTA, whatever. Just because it is a tank does not mean don't use. Besides the Haze is not what your thinking.

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CCarr33

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Thanks for the thought, however, any atomizer with a protruding fixed 510 pin is fine, be it RDA, RTA, whatever. Just because it is a tank does not mean don't use. Besides the Haze is not what your thinking.

maxresdefault.jpg
Yeah I was thinking some type of kayfun style RTA, Not this beast, sorry for being an idiot haha [emoji3], and where do I get one of these? It looks badass. [emoji106]

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SLIPPY_EEL

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Works just like hundreds of other mechs, none of which I've ever had any issues with arcing. Also not building super low resistance so the chance of arcing/hot button issues is very low.

hmm, not all mechs are built the same, some have fixed connections to the batteries & some like this noisy cricket have an open connection on the battery or one of the batteries.
You might well not get any problem with arcing on this as its slightly different in that its a series and not like a parallel or even a single where you have to hit low ohms to get some power down, i sure would be curious!
I was more concerned with the pitting on the battery connection the arcing does rather than the heat produced, i see it has a plastic button anyway
 
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ccwaters

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hmm, not all mechs are built the same, some have fixed connections to the batteries & some like this noisy cricket have an open connection on the battery or one of the batteries.
You might well not get any problem with arcing on this as its slightly different in that its a series and not like a parallel or even a single where you have to hit low ohms to get some power down, i sure would be curious!
I was more concerned with the pitting on the battery connection the arcing does rather than the heat produced, i see it has a plastic button anyway

Never said "all" what I did say is hundreds, regardless, any mechanical switch which carries current will have some arcing. The switch on the Cricket seems to work well enough arcing has not been an issue thus far. I inspect my batteries pretty regularly and have some that have been in rotation on various contact switches for years with no pitting or other damage at all. I really don't expect this will be any different.

If it is a concern to you perhaps stick with electronic switches.


Yeah I was thinking some type of kayfun style RTA, Not this beast, sorry for being an idiot haha [emoji3], and where do I get one of these? It looks badass. [emoji106]

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Haze Dripper Tank
 
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CCarr33

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Never said "all" what I did say is hundreds, regardless, any mechanical switch which carries current will have some arcing. The switch on the Cricket seems to work well enough arcing has not been an issue thus far. I inspect my batteries pretty regularly and have some that have been in rotation on various contact switches for years with no pitting or other damage at all. I really don't expect this will be any different.

If it is a concern to you perhaps stick with electronic switches.




Haze Dripper Tank
I love My Haze RDA, so I will definitely pick this up in the future [emoji106]

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SLIPPY_EEL

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Never said "all" what I did say is hundreds, regardless, any mechanical switch which carries current will have some arcing. The switch on the Cricket seems to work well enough arcing has not been an issue thus far. I inspect my batteries pretty regularly and have some that have been in rotation on various contact switches for years with no pitting or other damage at all. I really don't expect this will be any different.

If it is a concern to you perhaps stick with electronic switches.




Haze Dripper Tank

What ohms do you run through your mechs? i normally like to be around the 0.1ohm range sometimes 0.07ohm sometimes 0.2ohms depending on atty used, hence the reason for asking nicely if someone could let me know how the batteries hold up under the abuse that normally happens with these types of switches on mechs that i normally avoid.
I use to run a mech reo at around 0.2ohms and you could visually see the arcing which slowly snowballed to the point where no matter how much you cleaned the contact the pits from arcing remained and ever since ive always gone for mechs where the contact point is somewhere other than the battery.
I'm quite interested to know how a series mech compares.

But its pointless asking you yourself about this as you seem to be a tootle puffer rather than a 1 or 2 second blaster or else you would have already seen carbon build up let lone pitting from arcing.


I have an Army of all dif kinds of mods, electronic switches included :thumbs:
 

ccwaters

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What ohms do you run through your mechs?

Sorry, "ohms" don't run through my mechs. If your asking what resistance I typically use when vaping it varies with the hardware I'm using. Anywhere from 1.5 ohms down to .05.

i normally like to be around the 0.1ohm range sometimes 0.07ohm sometimes 0.2ohms depending on atty used, hence the reason for asking nicely if someone could let me know how the batteries hold up under the abuse that normally happens with these types of switches on mechs that i normally avoid.

For safety reasons I think most here would agree your target resistance range is not best suited for the Noisy Cricket. I'll add general consensus is .40 is the lower range of safety for it.

I use to run a mech reo at around 0.2ohms and you could visually see the arcing which slowly snowballed to the point where no matter how much you cleaned the contact the pits from arcing remained and ever since ive always gone for mechs where the contact point is somewhere other than the battery.
I'm quite interested to know how a series mech compares.

Probably should have taken the hint your Reo was not intended to be ran that way.

But its pointless asking you yourself about this as you seem to be a tootle puffer rather than a 1 or 2 second blaster or else you would have already seen carbon build up let lone pitting from arcing.

I'm clearly not "CloudBra" material, definitely a fail due to not skirting battery safety to the point of spot welding my mods contacts, and not having carbon build up on my batteries.


I have an Army of all dif kinds of mods, electronic switches included :thumbs:

Yep, I do see at least a partial list of your impressive army in your sig:party:
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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Lets say 8v on fresh cells in the cricket and 0.4ohms = 160w.
Now lets take a mech or a parallel mech, it doesnt really matter! then for argument sake we give that 4v and a 0.1ohm build which is where i would normally be and we also get 160w, i'd say that looks pretty well suited to my needs, no?

As for me running at 0.1ohms on a parallel mech mod or 0.2ohms on a reo is no more dangerous than what you are doing on a mech, yes! there is a safe limit and yours is different to mine, thats all.

And im definitely no cloud chaser armed with my 50/50 juice, clouds are the last thing i chase, i chase TH & Flav only.

If i remember rightly i think even people at 0.4-0.5ohms were getting arcing between the battery and contact on the reo's, even people at 1ohm were having to clean contacts, i bet all mechs arc to some degree at all pwr lvl's, some of the better mechs in my opinion have the contact point somewhere else other than the battery and the reason i say this is cus the contact point on say my cherry bomber doesnt look pitted or dirty and i've run that as low as 0.07ohms, havent needed to clean it.

And cc you knew exactly what i ment about the ohms you run through your mod and something else you were obnoxious about, if you know what im saying then why make a scene about it
 
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ccwaters

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Maybe for the same reason you used "tootlepuffer" in a derogatory manner? your way of vaping is in no way better then anyone else, if it suits you good. Want to run a cricket @ low resistance, have at it. Not something everyone should do, just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be.

Forum is full of folks who don't know better.
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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Maybe for the same reason you used "tootlepuffer" in a derogatory manner? your way of vaping is in no way better then anyone else, if it suits you good. Want to run a cricket @ low resistance, have at it. Not something everyone should do, just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be.

Forum is full of folks who don't know better.

Ive just shown you in my last post 'cc'! a 0.1ohm coil in a parallel mech has the equivalent wattage output of a 0.4ohm coil in a series mech which is 160w, meaning that if i were to get a cricket then i would be vaping at the same ohms as most other people that own one.

When did i say my way of vaping is any better than others?

My Tootlepuffer comment was ment to mean that you must vape at very low watts/power and take longg drag's, nothing more, i have friends that vape this way, heck i even vape at 40-50w sometimes, obviously some vape cooler than that, its no biggie theres a whole thread devoted to people that call themself's tootlepuffer's. :D

Yes there are some folk on here that dont know better cc but i'm not sure what you mean by this or why this is relevant to me:confused:
 

ccwaters

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Ive just shown you in my last post 'cc'! a 0.1ohm coil in a parallel mech has the equivalent wattage output of a 0.4ohm coil in a series mech which is 160w, meaning that if i were to get a cricket then i would be vaping at the same ohms as most other people that own one.

Well I do hope you meant power, not "ohms" because you obviously would not be using the same resistance.

A .4 ohm load @ 8.4 volts =176 watts not 160. as does
A .1 ohm load @ 4.2 =176.4

Soooo, you figure 176 watts on what is essentially a single 18650 battery is a good thing? Again, can? Should?

When did i say my way of vaping is any better than others?

My Tootlepuffer comment was ment to mean that you must vape at very low watts/power and take longg drag's, nothing more, i have friends that vape this way, heck i even vape at 40-50w sometimes, obviously some vape cooler than that, its no biggie theres a whole thread devoted to people that call themself's tootlepuffer's. :D

oih...... Really? Not an entire thread? Devoted to "tootlepuffers"? wonderous!

Its all about implication, and mindset. I'll bet your a big hit with the neckbeards down @ the local B&M ;)


Yes there are some folk on here that dont know better cc but i'm not sure what you mean by this or why this is relevant to me:confused:

Completely irrelevant when it comes to you, carry on my 1337 friend. :thumbs:

Back to my Vamo with the SR Boge...:rolleyes: And done derailing this thread for a lost cause..
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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Well I do hope you meant power, not "ohms" because you obviously would not be using the same resistance.

A .4 ohm load @ 8.4 volts =176 watts not 160. as does
A .1 ohm load @ 4.2 =176.4

Soooo, you figure 176 watts on what is essentially a single 18650 battery is a good thing? Again, can? Should?



oih...... Really? Not an entire thread? Devoted to "tootlepuffers"? wonderous!

Its all about implication, and mindset. I'll bet your a big hit with the neckbeards down @ the local B&M ;)




Completely irrelevant when it comes to you, carry on my 1337 friend. :thumbs:

Back to my Vamo with the SR Boge...:rolleyes: And done derailing this thread for a lost cause..

Yes your calculations are correct But a mech will never give you the entire 4.2v or 8.4v due to VoltageDrop. Some mechs have a lot more vd than what i've allowed for on my calculations with the 4v or 8v so..
Oh and as for me running a 0.1ohm coil on a single 18650, Nope never done it! Thats what you were assuming.
i have a couple of triple parallel mechs and dual parallels i run the high power builds on.

Have a nice time tootlepuffing your vamo, oh so great friend :lol:
 
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ccwaters

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Yes your calculations are correct But a mech will never give you the entire 4.2v or 8.4v due to VoltageDrop. Some mechs have a lot more vd than what i've allowed for on my calculations with the 4v or 8v so..

.4 vdrop? :blink:

Oh and as for me running a 0.1ohm coil on a single 18650, Nope never done it! Thats what you were assuming.

easy to ASSume with you.

i have a couple of triple parallel mechs and dual parallels i run the high power builds on.

ewwww, ahhhhh!

Have a nice time tootlepuffing your vamo, oh so great friend :lol:

I guess you have difficulty discerning sarcasm, kinda thought the emo was a give away.

Ahh well time to unwatch this thread.
 
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Bad Ninja

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Have a nice time tootlepuffing your vamo, oh so great friend :lol:

Are you really trying to insult someone because they understand their gear?
:facepalm:

I'm curious as to why you think you need 160watts to get a good vape?
I'm guessing you use extremely thick wire, and need all that power to make them fire.

There's a lot more to vaping than blasting turbo power through coat hanger gauge coils.
 
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