OBS Crius RTA?

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KenD

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Getting is apart is easier then it looks: Take a small, thin kitchen knife, press firmly where you want to separate the base. Roll the base on wooden desk, applying more pressure to the knife. Like if you want to cut it in half. Then, replace the small knife, with a bigger one and keep rolling 360°. Then even bigger, thicker knife. Until the base comes apart completely. Putting it together is even easier: You could do it using a small, brass hammer or press it together between the jaws of a vise. I pressed it together using a little pressure of a drill press.
Thanks! Will this break the ceramic insulator (my guess is yes)? Do you think it would be possible to "tighten" the base, make the gap between the afc and jfc smaller, by using your method of pressing the disassembled base back together again? I'm thinking that the cause for the leaking lies there.

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AMDTrucking

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Thanks! Will this break the ceramic insulator (my guess is yes)? Do you think it would be possible to "tighten" the base, make the gap between the afc and jfc smaller, by using your method of pressing the disassembled base back together again? I'm thinking that the cause for the leaking lies there.

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Yes, the whole idea was to tighten the base and prevent leaking. That, has been accomplished. Will this method destroy ceramic insulator? Absolutely, it will. But I've got a news for you: It is, most likely, already cracked in more then one place. You could try to save the insulator by trying to pull the positive terminal first. It is lightly press-fit into the brass center pin, that has useless screwdriver slot at the bottom. If you guys can make Saab and Volvo, you could do Crius in a heart bit.
 
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KenD

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Yes, the whole idea was to tighten the base and prevent leaking. That, has been accomplished. Will this method destroy ceramic insulator? Absolutely, it will. But I've got a news for you: It is, most likely, already cracked in more then one place. You could try to save the insulator by trying to pull the positive terminal first. It is lightly press-fit into the brass center pin, that has useless screwdriver slot at the bottom.
My insulator is actually intact, weird as that is. I'm not sure where I'll get delrin or peek for a new insulator, plus I'm not 100% confident in my ability to pull this off. Therefore I'd rather just tighten the base without taking it apart.

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jefx

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I applaud your ingenuity and machining skills. you have managed to fix the weak points in the Crius design and you rebuilt it the way that it should have been engineered in the first place.

However, I'm concerned about Delrin as an insulator too. according to Wiki, Delrin (POM) has a melting point of under 350 degrees F. Will that insulator hold up to the temperature of the coils in the deck?
 

AMDTrucking

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AMDtrucking.

I applaud your ingenuity and machining skills. you have managed to fix the weak points in the Crius design and you rebuilt it the way that it should have been engineered in the first place.

However, I'm concerned about Delrin as an insulator too. according to Wiki, Delrin (POM) has a melting point of under 350 degrees F. Will that insulator hold up to the temperature of the coils in the deck?

How many atomizers with delrin insulators do you have? In how many of them, has the delrin insulator actually melted? My Crius, with delrin insulator, works for two weeks now. The insulator, in it, is just fine so far.
 
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jefx

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I dont know how many delrin insulators I have, but I dont see many listing the insulator as being Delrin. It seems peek is the more popular choice for its higher heat tolerance.

I think the first Subtank Mini rba had a delrin insulator, and many people reported them melting. Kanger later went to peek to fix the problem.
 
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AMDTrucking

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I dont know how many delrin insulators I have, but I dont see many listing the insulator as being Delrin. It seems peek is the more popular choice for its higher heat tolerance.

I think the first Subtank Mini rba had a delrin insulator, and many people reported them melting. Kanger later went to peek to fix the problem.

Who's debating that PEEK is a better chose, to make insulators, then Deloris (POM) or Teflon (PTFE)? It was just the matter of, what I had on hand. In fact, I have just bought a 12" long Ø3/4" PEEK rod. But for all fairness to Delrin, other then Kanger Subtank mini and Kayfun 4.0 subohm kit, everybody else uses it.
 
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jefx

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I think you did an awesome job upgrading your Crius. I'm not trying to argue or belittle your effort.

However, I'm pretty sure that most atomizers have been using peek since subohm vaping has become popular.

In fact, after some google-fu, it appears that all of my RTAs have peek insulators, other than my authentic Crius, which has ceramic.

So, to answer your question, I have never had a delrin insulator melt, because I have never had a delrin insulator.
 
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Hightech Redneck

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It was brought up way earlier in this thread about glass. If you haven't recently go on ebay and search crius rta. They have 5 packs replacement glass now. Also stainless clones with colored glass and so on. Just wanted to mention the glass in case anyone is still looking.
 
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ashtrayogdc

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I think you did an awesome job upgrading your Crius. I'm not trying to argue or belittle your effort.

However, I'm pretty sure that most atomizers have been using peek since subohm vaping has become popular.

In fact, after some google-fu, it appears that all of my RTAs have peek insulators, other than my authentic Crius, which has ceramic.

So, to answer your question, I have never had a delrin insulator melt, because I have never had a delrin insulator.
This is why it just confused the freaking poo out of me why in their right mind would they even bother to use ceramic. Seriously....why?? Is it cheaper to produce? Blah....still a head scratcher for me.
 
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cigatron

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so far so good.

it works every bit as well as the authentic, and waaaaay better than my first one (which was defective and documented earlier in this thread)

The deck is tight. no jiggling, and no leaking. The afc and jfc have a nice and tight tension to them. they won't move accidently while in your pocket. So far, there is no leakage at the afc/jfc junction.

the chimney cap looks just a tad bit taller than the authentic, but i don't have a micrometer to tell exactly. the authentic chimney cap looks wider in the pic, but that's only because there was juice in it when I took the pic. I'm pretty sure they are the same size.

Now, the only con............
not all of my drip tips fit in the clone.
Most do fit, but the drip tips from my Bellus and Goliath v2 do not. those same drip fits DO fit in the authentic.
It's not a dealbreaker, but it should be noted.

Verdict....
If I could go back in time and choose the authentic or the clone.......I would take the clone.
It does everything the authentic does, plus it has a plastic (peek) insulator, and only cost $16.51 shipped from FT.

If it develops any leakage or problems, I will update.

I wonder if FT sells a clone V3 base with PEEK insulators. I have 2 V2s with cracked ceramic insulators that could use upgrades.
 

AMDTrucking

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I'd be interested in acquiring a couple of your nicely machined PEEK insulators @AMDTrucking . When do you think they would be available?
As soon as I will receive my order of PEEK material from eBay. :2cool: I have ton of Delrin, but you don't want it. I'm willing to bet that Delrin is used in Crius clone. I'm planning to machine few PEEK insulators and place them on eBay. At how much, do you think, I should price them?
 
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