That is definitely one of my gripes with this tank. Wish it came apart more for cleaning :/ The deck section also.
OBS Crius RTA?
- Thread starter Hightech Redneck
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They come apart, you'll need some rubber gloves and they are really tight. Some have suggested sticking something in one of the juice holes and I can tell you from experience that you don't want to do that, it will dimple the holes.
Rubber gloves work well, just keep trying. After you break them down the first time just don't over tighten them again.
Rubber gloves work well, just keep trying. After you break them down the first time just don't over tighten them again.
Finally got this tank in the mail and been messing with it for the past couple days. My impressions:
1) It's nice looking and well machined
2) The top fill method is pretty slick
3) It's hard to take apart
4) I don't like the wicking ring. They should have made it removable like on the Chuthulu.
5) The velocity deck is great (my first velocity deck).
6) Wicking it is very finicky, mostly because of the wick ring. My first build, I stuffed cotton in the holes. Got nothing but dry hits (well, dry as in using only 10watts in temp control). My second build I didn't cover the holes. The vape was much better but it leaked everywhere. That's no good. With my most recent build I went somewhat in the middle (cotton about half way down) and am getting the most clouds yet. However, I am still only able to get about 20-30W out of a 10 wrap dual Ti build (before my DNA200 hits temp limit). I am not sure how all these people are putting 70-80W to it. I guess they are doing it in Kanthal mode and vaping it warm. I typically keep my temp control between 450-480.
1) It's nice looking and well machined
2) The top fill method is pretty slick
3) It's hard to take apart
4) I don't like the wicking ring. They should have made it removable like on the Chuthulu.
5) The velocity deck is great (my first velocity deck).
6) Wicking it is very finicky, mostly because of the wick ring. My first build, I stuffed cotton in the holes. Got nothing but dry hits (well, dry as in using only 10watts in temp control). My second build I didn't cover the holes. The vape was much better but it leaked everywhere. That's no good. With my most recent build I went somewhat in the middle (cotton about half way down) and am getting the most clouds yet. However, I am still only able to get about 20-30W out of a 10 wrap dual Ti build (before my DNA200 hits temp limit). I am not sure how all these people are putting 70-80W to it. I guess they are doing it in Kanthal mode and vaping it warm. I typically keep my temp control between 450-480.
Threaded, the chimney is a separate piece. you have to grab the silver ring on the bottom and the ring just below the juice fill cap. There's really not much to grab but once you get it broken down the first time you're set.
Rubber gloves were the only way I could get it done. It's treaded like every other thank, normal threading so it's left hand twist to get it off. You'll end up with this:
They come apart. Rubber glove index finger in the chimney works for me. This tank is perfect. I have the v3 in black Vape at 50watts on a .39 ohm 24 gauge 2.5mm kanthal build. Love this Rta!
^^^^ agreed!
There is so little to grab that I think the gloves really help. So far I have 3 of them and all of them perform great.
There is so little to grab that I think the gloves really help. So far I have 3 of them and all of them perform great.
Marc.
C.hicks89 was asking about how to take apart this top piece
I thought that was the part you were refering to.
C.hicks89 was asking about how to take apart this top piece
I thought that was the part you were refering to.
Sorry jefx, I misunderstood the question. I don't believe that part comes apart. I open it when I let it soak and it cleans up fine.
Wonder if they fixed the few little QC things that are happening on some on the limited V3. Otherwise, I'd stick with a black or stainless.
If you look at that picture on wetvapes, the deck on the right without a tank on it, you can see the ring doesn't line up perfectly to the deck cutout for the wick, which is the same problem others have seen. Going off that picture, I'd guess they still have QC issues.
Has anyone who has problems with their Crius leaking from between the afc and the jfc managed to fix the problem? I'm getting really annoyed with mine as I love everything else about the tank. Btw, my insulator isn't cracked.
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Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
If you have the v3, the one with the velocity deck, try raising the coils up. As stated previously in this thread, it will help with that leakage between the afc and jfc.
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leakage is due to poor machining, coil placement may help, but its just a poorly built part. My new replacement deck has no leakage and everything is nice and tight.
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