Set of 2
https://smile.amazon.com/Bondhus-10...rd_wg=Vhjfl&psc=1&refRID=JEQW0FC3RBN4EH8HJ680
More expensive, but doesn't require a US$ 25 purchase.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002USI...TF8&colid=3BGE2JSM6TTV2&coliid=I1YVU4K0TKOBQJ
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https://smile.amazon.com/Bondhus-10...rd_wg=Vhjfl&psc=1&refRID=JEQW0FC3RBN4EH8HJ680
More expensive, but doesn't require a US$ 25 purchase.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002USI...TF8&colid=3BGE2JSM6TTV2&coliid=I1YVU4K0TKOBQJ
Would the the baby and big baby beast tanks be one of those, too,as I believe they can use the the TFv4 massed produced heads. I may be wrong.
Are the Tfv4 mini tanks good on flavor? I need a small tank for my macro sbody dna 40 unit, also.
Great info, Thanks
If you wanted to go with individual drivers, this one fits a fair number of other tanks (along with the 1.5 for the engine nano and some tanks):
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-1064...qid=1488229576&sr=1-4&keywords=bondhus+1.27mm
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-1064...qid=1488229576&sr=1-4&keywords=bondhus+1.27mm
I like the TFV4, pretty decent flavor though not as good as the Nano IMO. The 22mm form factor fits in my MicroStick mech (as does the GeekVape Ammit).
You're saying that though this one is 1.27mm it will fit the Nano & other tanks too? I thought the Nano uses 1.5mm?
Sorry about lack of clarity, you need the 1.5mm for the Nano. The 1.27mm is for many other tanks, for example Aromamizers.
For the smaller (1.27mm) driver, the Bondhus 40602 should work well, costs less than the metric:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-4060...rd_wg=FZuar&psc=1&refRID=FTEPAFJJCGED27CKYAR6
(likely made off the same die, 1.27mm gets the red handle, 0.05" gets the yellow instead)
1.27mm = 0.050"
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-4060...rd_wg=FZuar&psc=1&refRID=FTEPAFJJCGED27CKYAR6
(likely made off the same die, 1.27mm gets the red handle, 0.05" gets the yellow instead)
1.27mm = 0.050"
Those are used for the screws. Tanks come with little L-shaped allen wrenches (hex head wrenches). I like the hex head screwdrivers -- better quality construction than the allen wrenches that come with tanks (they generally don't strip screws), and easier on the hands.
To line up the coil, get it "level", a simple drill bit, thin nail, or coil-winding mandrel is used. It's just something roughly the same as the inner diameter of the coil that you can twist around a bit to move the coil position. (the legs on a coil, the things captured under the grub screws, can be bent a bit with no problem, once you have something stuffed through the body of the coil to use as a lever)
You line up the coil after you initially install it, before the wick goes in.
Back to the Nano - Hadaly on the therion bf is my workday setup, but I'm really loving that 316l 3mm coil on the Nano. That's what I use with an SDNA on a lanyard, for random household chores
To line up the coil, get it "level", a simple drill bit, thin nail, or coil-winding mandrel is used. It's just something roughly the same as the inner diameter of the coil that you can twist around a bit to move the coil position. (the legs on a coil, the things captured under the grub screws, can be bent a bit with no problem, once you have something stuffed through the body of the coil to use as a lever)
You line up the coil after you initially install it, before the wick goes in.
Back to the Nano - Hadaly on the therion bf is my workday setup, but I'm really loving that 316l 3mm coil on the Nano. That's what I use with an SDNA on a lanyard, for random household chores
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It went looking for something to tighten the grub screws down with. It's still rummaging in the toolbox while muttering something about "metric, Imperial, why can't they get this crap straight".
Oh, that's odd, all my RTA's came with the right sized tool. Once that's all figured out, I'll post my 1st impressions of the actual RTA.
My DW often calls me a tool (that's a compliment, right?...[emoji1])
So Mactavish, what do you think of the Nano?
So Mactavish, what do you think of the Nano?
Funny you should ask.
OBS Engine Nano RTA
First impressions:
Received my black version from SubtankSupply, delivered in 3 days from ordering.
Installed a 5mm (4.8mm I.D.) SS 316L Wismec Notch coil. Fits fine. The top down grub screws captured the wire much better then the posts with side capture holes on many other RTA's, with those it's much easier to cut or break off the Notch coil leads, something I always have to be careful of, otherwise you ruin the Notch coil, one of the only downsides of the Notch.
Wicked with Rayon, fluffed, then I cut off 40-50% on top near coil ends. My first attempt, still lots of rayon left to cram into the juice holes, looked like a lot of it reached the bottom of the deck. Some advise otherwise, but you have to start someplace before you can make adjustments. Seems to feed the juice fine. I'm not a chain vapor, but it seems it could keep up. I don't know how cotton responds, as I don't use it anymore.
This 25mm RTA, fits perfectly on my VaporShark Switchbox DNA75, no overhang, though it does not sit flush, seems like a fairly tall 510 pin. TC mode, 23 ohms, (I leave wattage at 75) TEMP: 460f. Airflow closed way down.
My first vape, I choked on all the vapor, hadn't closed the airflow down yet. I'm still braking in the rayon, and I've never been a great judge of flavor, but using the same device, settings, coil, and juice, I'd say it's about the same as my Merlin Mini. The airflow path while vaping is super smooth, even closed way down for my restricted MTL style.
Surprised that it's only a short drip tip taller then the Merlin Mini, the extra juice capacity is a non factor to me as I change flavors a lot, and usually just vape a tank dry, and vape through the flavor change over period. One of the many advantages of good temperature control devices.
I like that there are few parts and orings to lose, unlike my Aromamizer Supreme Lite. But, since the entire top part is press fit, to do a deep clean, it will have to be submerged in a hot water bath, since you can't get into the "internal" airflow chamber. Then allowed to air dry. I could use my ultrasonic cleaner, but it has been known to take the paint off on cheaper subtanks, so I doubt I'll use it, just in case.
So far I'm quite pleased, and since it fits nicely on my main mod (other then the tall 510 pin), I'll probably get a gold version next. I can't say it's better or worse in any regard compared to my other favorite RTA, the Merlin Mini, but since I have both, it's all good.
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