Odysseus leakage

[The Yeti]

Double wick down the channels, or single wick - I get leaking in big mode on first fill, then fine until juice level drops below window. Same with GGTS as with 510 base.

In short mode, I get very little to no leaking no matter what wick I use. Same with GGTS as with 510 base.

Have not tried the wire down the channel trick yet, waiting until I have to change coils and this one's been going strong for about two weeks.

Just my input for info gathering.

 

[Six2arms]

Double wick down the channels, or single wick - I get leaking in big mode on first fill, then fine until juice level drops below window. Same with GGTS as with 510 base.

In short mode, I get very little to no leaking no matter what wick I use. Same with GGTS as with 510 base.

Have not tried the wire down the channel trick yet, waiting until I have to change coils and this one's been going strong for about two weeks.

Just my input for info gathering.

I started making a new coil tonight, and jotted down all the possible ways for no-leaking issue on Big mode.. I started with double wick, and put a slight Vaseline in the o-rings, especially on the small one by end of the connection, and it miraculously worked for me.. Maybe leaked very little (I'll say probably 5 drops the most) at first, then it stopped since. Just make sure to take drags about 10x or so, before turning the JC half a turn.. Im in 1-1/2 turn already, and didn't increase the leak at all.. Just sharing my experience, and hope to work on you too..

 

[Six2arms]

Simple yet effective method that I was shocked hasnt been mentioned yet.... We all know to grease up the o-ring at the bottom of our center pin with vasoline... but I found applying some vasoline inside the bottom of the base and lower threads with a q-tip is perfect and creates a nice seal as well as making it much easier to remove the coil housing when its time to build another coil... VASOLINE is KING!!!

Thanks Chief, this works for me!!

 

[dspin]

Thanks Chief, this works for me!!

I put vaseline on everything including the housing, rings, everywhere its not smooth

 

[critterbug]

Simple yet effective method that I was shocked hasnt been mentioned yet.... We all know to grease up the o-ring at the bottom of our center pin with vasoline... but I found applying some vasoline inside the bottom of the base and lower threads with a q-tip is perfect and creates a nice seal as well as making it much easier to remove the coil housing when its time to build another coil... VASOLINE is KING!!!

I guess I have avoided using vaseline liberally - in areas where the juice sites - because I'm concerned that it will mis with the juice and I don't want to vape vaseline. But then it's insoluble in PG/VG, but if it gets on the wick, isn't there some chance of vaporizing it? I'm going to try this if y'all can help me believe it's perfectly safe!

 

[fright88]

I guess I have avoided using vaseline liberally - in areas where the juice sites - because I'm concerned that it will mis with the juice and I don't want to vape vaseline. But then it's insoluble in PG/VG, but if it gets on the wick, isn't there some chance of vaporizing it? I'm going to try this if y'all can help me believe it's perfectly safe!

I don't think vasoline will travel up the wick if a little did manage to get on it. But I also vasoline all non smoothe parts (ie all threaded parts) and have never had an issue.

 

[critterbug]

Good info. Thanks fright et al.

 

[Oddy]

quick update using the method in post #80 but this time with single stock ody wick in the channels i get no leaking with the 510 base but juice control only has to be cracked open ever so slightly to feed, and will over wick if left open for long periods without use.

for some reason though i'm getting over wicking on the ggts base with single wick even with juice control closed. only reason i can find for this is because the ceramic sits lower in the ggts base and liquid doesn't have as far to travel.

none of these issues tho with double wick.

if some body else who has leaking issues could try this method it'd be appreciated by more than just me i believe.

like i say, i don't usually have any issues using the original method.

 

[gredie]

I tried doubling the wick just at the top where the coil it and it worked as it should. This time I tried it Oddy's way combing the 2mm? and the thinner 1mm wick all the way down the channels. Works perfect, no wicking or leakage issues.

 

[SAX]

When you all are talking "Double Wick" are talking about at the top on the coil in cup part?

 

[gredie]

Not at the top of the coil, i took a second strand and wrapped the wire around both strands of wick - the 2nd strand was just as long as the top of the cup part the other strand of wick went down the channels on the side of the ceramic.

 

[Oddy]

I tried doubling the wick just at the top where the coil it and it worked as it should. This time I tried it Oddy's way combing the 2mm? and the thinner 1mm wick all the way down the channels. Works perfect, no wicking or leakage issues.

nice one gredie

When you all are talking "Double Wick" are talking about at the top on the coil in cup part?

double in the channels and coil Sax, i actually used 2mm ody wick and 1mm ce2, so 3mm total of wick through channels and coil.

 

[SAX]

Got ya, that is what I am doing when I put it in run the long wick down the channels and trim the shorter wick at the top.

Well maybe not

 

[Rick.45cal]

Hmm this is interisting. I don't mean to offend Rick but have you tried filling closing the juice controll completely and letting it sit over night on a paper towel or something like that (on a water resistant surface) to see if it isn't just over wicking? Also have you tried an o-ring around the knurled nut where it joins the base (not under it because this adds height just a tight fitting one around the outside) Also have you done this since you changed to the new wire outside wick but in the base method?

Yes on all accounts

Sometimes it just leaks to leak
sometimes it doesn't
sometimes I put a new wick in and it's dripping out the bottom at 2-3 drops a second
sometimes I change the wick (made exactly the same) and it stops

Orings here, Orings there, tried em all.
New ceramic, modified ceramic it does as it pleases

It's made me want to pull what little hair I have left out at times, it's wasted juice, most of it on me. Strangely my new freshly broken ceramic, is working wonders in large mode. So I really have no clue, it's completely arbitrary and random

I think it is just testing me like a 2 year old... I'm hoping I have it whooped this time though

My problem is mine loves to act up, when I'm trying to build a new coil so I can go to a 4 hour long studio class, never when I've got plenty of free time to mess with it. Which just pushes my buttons

Who knows, it's working right now... I'm gonna vape myself sick while it's letting me

 

[fright88]

Yes on all accounts

Sometimes it just leaks to leak
sometimes it doesn't
sometimes I put a new wick in and it's dripping out the bottom at 2-3 drops a second
sometimes I change the wick (made exactly the same) and it stops

Orings here, Orings there, tried em all.
New ceramic, modified ceramic it does as it pleases

It's made me want to pull what little hair I have left out at times, it's wasted juice, most of it on me. Strangely my new freshly broken ceramic, is working wonders in large mode. So I really have no clue, it's completely arbitrary and random

I think it is just testing me like a 2 year old... I'm hoping I have it whooped this time though

My problem is mine loves to act up, when I'm trying to build a new coil so I can go to a 4 hour long studio class, never when I've got plenty of free time to mess with it. Which just pushes my buttons

Who knows, it's working right now... I'm gonna vape myself sick while it's letting me

Hmmm well I can say I am glad the new broken ceramic is working ok. Hopefully it will continue to do so. And I know what you mean about stuff going wrong at the wrong time. I always seem to pop my old coil when I won't be able to make a new one for a few hours lol

 

[J**2]

So, I'm here. Had one of my Ody on my stealth in short body (secondary flavor) and a few days ago got my expansion kit and GGTS base so I set my other Ody up on my main one in full mode. Got the leaking problem, but vapes great (with the dual coil as posted elsewhere ....

Where is the dual coil explanation ??

J

 

[Quigsworth]

I've been using xc 116 from the beginning, I got mine from a buddy who's in the Steam Boiler business in the form of a 2" rope that I had to un-ravel (I got enough to last well past the end of the world according to the Mayan's)...some of the strands are thicker than others so I have (at least for my scenario) managed to get it to leak, or not to leak, by design...(as opposed to what appeared to be a random event). I "pack" (I mean seriously pack) the side slots with pre juiced wick (kind of a messy procedure but meh) I complete the pos wrap and also bring the neg down (fully slotted)...then before I screw on the base I run the lock ring all the way down to shave off the excess wick (I've packed it so tight the wick has thread lines cut into it and it blends from steel to wick to steel...no ceramic can be seen)...I then carefully pull up the neg, spin on the base and pinch the neg between the base and lock ring old school (I use super soft non resistance, it mashes flat, also, I tried the loop around the wick in the slot method, didn't seem to make a difference for me).

The moral of my particular story is "over load" the slots with wet wick and shave with the ring...I can even crack open my flow to the max now without it flooding/leaking...I'm on my 4th re-wick now, so far so good (and I can run it down below the site window...) <<major sigh of relief>>

 

[Zoranth]

If you got it in the form of a 2 inch rope then it is probably not XC 116. Maybe something similar though seeing as XC-116 is hollow. it is made from Nextel 312 which is an Alumina-Borica-Silica fiber that is braided.


XC-116
• Six Sizes
• 1/16", 1/8", 3/16", 3/8", 1/4", 1/2" Nominal Inside Diameter
• Low Thermal Conductivity
• Non-Hygroscopic
• XC Series: 1200°C (2200°F ) Continuous Rating - Nextel 312
• XC Series: 1425°C (2600°F) Short Term Rating - Nextel 312
• XC4 Series: 1375°C (2500°F) Continuous Rating - Nextel 440
• XC4 Series: 1550°C (2800°F) Short Term Rating - Nextel 440
• NEXTEL sleeving can not be exported. Use XS (silica material) for export.

I've been using xc 116 from the beginning, I got mine from a buddy who's in the Steam Boiler business in the form of a 2" rope that I had to un-ravel (I got enough to last well past the end of the world according to the Mayan's)...some of the strands are thicker than others so I have (at least for my scenario) managed to get it to leak, or not to leak, by design...(as opposed to what appeared to be a random event). I "pack" (I mean seriously pack) the side slots with pre juiced wick (kind of a messy procedure but meh) I complete the pos wrap and also bring the neg down (fully slotted)...then before I screw on the base I run the lock ring all the way down to shave off the excess wick (I've packed it so tight the wick has thread lines cut into it and it blends from steel to wick to steel...no ceramic can be seen)...I then carefully pull up the neg, spin on the base and pinch the neg between the base and lock ring old school (I use super soft non resistance, it mashes flat, also, I tried the loop around the wick in the slot method, didn't seem to make a difference for me).

The moral of my particular story is "over load" the slots with wet wick and shave with the ring...I can even crack open my flow to the max now without it flooding/leaking...I'm on my 4th re-wick now, so far so good (and I can run it down below the site window...) <<major sigh of relief>>

 

[Valsacar]

Ok... so, after about 3 dry burns my wick was just dead. Made a new one (still dual coil) but used double wick. Most of the wick ended up coming apart (the top one) when being screwed in, it was pushed in as far as I could get it (stock wick). Still had no leaks, but gunk built up fast and needed a dry burn after one tank (1-2 tanks seemed normal with my stock wick). Problem was, after a dry burn it just wouldn't produce anymore... so I swapped into a new wick the next day, but a single strand as I couldn't see why what little wick survived the "holding ring" could have possibly done anything... tank is just dumping now (only starts when juice gets low, as others have previously reported).... so apparently the double wick did help.

 

[MrGiggly]

Wonder if someone could confirm if there should be some lateral play in the knurled ring when screwing it down or should it be a tight screw?

Initally I had quite a bit of leakage down the centre post but I've managed to stop that using 3mm wick all the way down. Never have to open the juice control, if I do, even a fraction it floods. I haven't tried trapping the wire under the inside of the ring yet, thats for next build. Just interested in the above really as this last build is vaping like a champ!