Official DNA 40 introduction

[Spirometry]

Can anybody see if the test below does anything to theirs

Note: To reset/force "new coil", unscrew cooled atty out half way so it's not making contact. Hold fire button and then re-tighten. Message will appear. Choos yes

Test:
- Let sit unused to ambient temp.
- Reset coil detection
- Check start resistance ( compare to external )
- Let everything sit for over 7 minutes
- Wake board up by using up or down button
- Check resistance ( Change? -0.02 ? )
- Reset coil detection
- Check resistance ( back to original? )

I get :
0.24
0.22
0.24

Mines a Hana dna 40

I did this test. I can start by saying that my board (VaporShark) definitely has the screen glitch.

Reset
0.24

Wait 7 minutes
0.22

Reset
0.24

Wait 7 minutes
0.22

Reset
0.24


After about of 8 hours of screen glitches, I can't get it to do it any more.I have been doing the TP and 40 watt thing for hours now.
When the base resistance reads 0.24 it vapes great and the wattage starts around 14w and falls during the draw to maintain 420°.
When the dna resets the base resistance to 0.22 the wattage starts around 11 and falls to 8 or 9 to maintain 420 and I have to turn the temperature up to 440° to get back up to 14 watts.

 

[NOVA jon]

Even after hardening? Or is it still inherently difficult to get your builds right?

 

[peraspera]

They should try titanium. I wouldn't use it w/o temperature protection due to its propensity to oxidize at higher temperatures, but with temperature protection, I like it better than either nickel or Kanthal.

My memory could well be faulty but didn't someone play around with titanium some time ago and found that it caught on fire easily? Have you fired the titanium coils with temp protection off with no ill effects?

 

[Rossum]

My memory could well be faulty but didn't someone play around with titanium some time ago and found that it caught on fire easily? Have you fired the titanium coils with temp protection off with no ill effects?

On my DNA40, no, but I've previously fired it on a DNA20 and a mech and it didn't catch fire. It just made plenty of white oxide, see my blog. I do like it on the DNA40 'cause it's not soft like nickel (in fact it's the opposite, perhaps a bit springer than optimal), it does run fine in temperature mode (although you have to use a lower temperature), it's got a higher resistance (meaning you don't need over-sized coils) and last but not least, it doesn't irritate my mouth and throat like both nickel and nichrome seem to.

 

[TIGwelder]

I did this test. I can start by saying that my board (VaporShark) definitely has the screen glitch.

Reset
0.24

Wait 7 minutes
0.22

Reset
0.24

Wait 7 minutes
0.22

Reset
0.24


After about of 8 hours of screen glitches, I can't get it to do it any more.I have been doing the TP and 40 watt thing for hours now.
When the base resistance reads 0.24 it vapes great and the wattage starts around 14w and falls during the draw to maintain 420°.
When the DNA resets the base resistance to 0.22 the wattage starts around 11 and falls to 8 or 9 to maintain 420 and I have to turn the temperature up to 440° to get back up to 14 watts.

Thanks!
Even though my screen hasn't acted up, you are describing exactly what happens and have duplicated the test results. The vape at the lower base is weak and it seems cold even though it then hits the temp protection. It's great until it sleeps, then it's unsatifying after the reset and any changes seem to not help much. Mine is up at 20 watts/430F

I'm not crazy
Thanks again

 

[KGie]

They should try titanium. I wouldn't use it w/o temperature protection due to its propensity to oxidize at higher temperatures, but with temperature protection, I like it better than either nickel or Kanthal.

And unless I'm misinterpreting the Wikipedia article on titanium, that oxidation doesn't occur until 2,190 °F...

On my DNA40, no, but I've previously fired it on a DNA20 and a mech and it didn't catch fire. It just made plenty of white oxide, see my blog. I do like it on the DNA40 'cause it's not soft like nickel (in fact it's the opposite, perhaps a bit springer than optimal), it does run fine in temperature mode (although you have to use a lower temperature), it's got a higher resistance (meaning you don't need over-sized coils) and last but not least, it doesn't irritate my mouth and throat like both nickel and nichrome seem to.

...which implies without TP that coil must be hitting at least 2190 °F...

 

[DejayRezme]

About the brass, the lead free brass is called naval brass I think (not marine brass). There is also a method to detect / remove the surface lead bubbles from brass (Google "remove lead brass" and you'll find pages). But I'd go with stainless steel.


About the through post hole connection, I posted this before but an alternative is using stainless steel nails and cut / file them to size so they just drop into the post and form a platform. My Aris RDA surprisingly had this already. The hex grub screws are a nice idea too, but the surface area of a filed nail should be even better.


And tchavei you should be fine with customs. At least theoretically as long as it's declared "repair / return" with zero product value. Tariffs are based on the declared product value. It should be standard procedure for customs.

Thanks! Even though my screen hasn't acted up, you are describing exactly what happens and have duplicated the test results.

Strange. The chip just shouldn't adjust base resistance. I thought the chip only adjust base resistance after a reset with battery or due to the screen glitch and reset with the "Evolv DNA40" message. When I vape with screen glitched, set it down for 5 minutes it resets and when I pick it up there is still enough heat in the coil to increase the resistance on reboot. But it seems to work differently for you.

 

[KGie]

About the brass, the lead free brass is called naval brass I think (not marine brass). There is also a method to detect / remove the surface lead bubbles from brass (Google "remove lead brass" and you'll find pages). But I'd go with stainless steel.

Yep, you're right. I stand corrected, thanks.

 

[HolmanGT]

HGT, can you refresh me what application we're talking about here that you're going to use aluminum for? I've lost the chain of reference.

KGie,

I make a small ferrule crimp tube to use in the post holes of my atty. The darn Ni200 is so soft that I can't tighten them without cutting them off. Before using the ferrules I don't know how many coils I cut off but it was enough that I was ready to throw the Fogger out or thru the window.

The small aluminum ferrule soled the problem and I am now a very happy camper.

I have seen some fishing ferrule crimps on eBay for cheap just need to find one small enough for the job. They sell all kinds more than I ever imagined and sever types out of aluminum. So if I find the right size I'll just buy a bag full. I was working on it yesterday but there were so many types and sizes I got tired of converting and verifying sizes. But I'll go at it again in the AM when I am not so burned out.

Besides my Fogger is currently working with dual coil 32 Ga coils... try doing that without a crimp sleeve. If you even think the set screw has touched the coil wire it is already too late - Cut, start over.

Somebody on this thread (or one of the other DNA40 threads) asked "if you had it to do over would you buy a TP mod that used Ni200". I didn't reply but if called on it I would have to say something like it would be a cold day.

 

[KGie]

KGie,

Somebody on this thread (or one of the other DNA40 threads) asked "if you had it to do over would you buy a TP mod that used Ni200". I didn't reply but if called on it I would have to say something like it would be a cold day.

Have you considered switching to Titanium? Rossum certainly seems to like it a whole better than nickel for building, plus he says it doesn't irritate his throat like nickel and nichrome seem to. (In case you missed it, it's post #2084, just a few posts previous.)

 

[Vwls]

My memory could well be faulty but didn't someone play around with titanium some time ago and found that it caught on fire easily?

Not titanium, but... funny story.

 

[laurie9300]

KGie,
I have seen some fishing ferrule crimps on eBay for cheap just need to find one small enough for the job. They sell all kinds more than I ever imagined and sever types out of aluminum. So if I find the right size I'll just buy a bag full. I was working on it yesterday but there were so many types and sizes I got tired of converting and verifying sizes. But I'll go at it again in the AM when I am not so burned out.

How about these?
http://youtu.be/9G9UvJ690LY

1.0mm OD , 0.7mm ID

http://www.thesilvercorporation.co.uk/home.asp

 

[Rossum]

And unless I'm misinterpreting the Wikipedia article on titanium, that oxidation doesn't occur until 2,190 °F...
...which implies without TP that coil must be hitting at least 2190 °F...

Based on the colors I saw the wire glowing, I don't think it was that hot.

 

[Rossum]

Yep, juice does burn.

 

[puffon]

Not titanium, but... funny story.

Yikes!
Do you know what addy that is?

 

[jaxgator]

Here's the question weighing on my mind: would those who have DNA40 boards now purchase another?

Yes. I currently own 3 DNA40 Vapor Flasks - 2 silvers and one black. I have every intention of purchasing one in gunmetal in the very near future.

 

[Heespharm]

Yikes!
Do you know what addy that is?

Hellfire 22mm top hole ... It's chronically out of stock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KTMRider]

Yes. I currently own 3 DNA40 Vapor Flasks - 2 silvers and one black. I have every intention of purchasing one in gunmetal in the very near future.

No issues with your 3 VF's?

 

[jaxgator]

No issues with your 3 VF's?

Sorry, forgot to add - 2 in working order and one with scrambled screen currently being repaired by Evolv.

 

[HolmanGT]

How about these?
Silver Crimps for Making res/no res wire - YouTube

1.0mm OD , 0.7mm ID

The Silver Corporation

Laurie,

Thank you much. I looked at some junk jeweler making stuff and never could find out what they were made of so I steered clear. The stuff you linked to looks like just what I have been looking for.

Regards,