I am trying to recall if I've seen *any* posts about problems with XPV's -- I think yes, there may have been one. All of one. Hmmm...
Anyone having XPV problems please pipe up here and be tallied. (I hope this tally ends up at... 1.)
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I am trying to recall if I've seen *any* posts about problems with XPV's -- I think yes, there may have been one. All of one. Hmmm...
Anyone having XPV problems please pipe up here and be tallied. (I hope this tally ends up at... 1.)
lots of electronics are exposed to cold temperatures without problems. does you car radio work in the winternow batteries is a different thing but we're not discussing batteries in this forum. just expressing my dissatisfaction of this devise not working when it gets a little cold. yes it needs to be rma'd but till i know that others are rmaing theirs for the same issues. im not sure evolve knows some dont work outside and if they will exchange it for one that works properly
Actually here cars often don`t work in the winter, much less car radios.
She....and yes I was. =)
(sent from an alien device which translates English into Klingon without my approval)
Got my replacement flask, and my buddies bought me a new one too! Meet my new friend! Working flawlessly too!
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Also something I learnt today. Alexander Mundy (the man who came up with the Mundy Magic coil) discovered that it's possible to make kanthal-nickel hybrids and still achieve TP.
In fact, it has a overall temperature coefficient quite similar to how titanium is analogous to nickel. Prelim trials shows so that 400F on the hybrid is approx 450F on pure Nickle. Might become a viable option in terms of getting more robust coils!!!!!!!!
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In fact, it has a overall temperature coefficient quite similar to how titanium is analogous to nickel. Prelim trials shows so that 400F on the hybrid is approx 450F on pure Nickle. Might become a viable option in terms of getting more robust coils!!!!!!!!
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Some additional thoughts designed to help you. Vape and enjoy your new VS 40. Period. Tune for the flavor of your vape, your required vapor production, and the various lengths of your draws throughout the day. Using a dripper, the TP warning will appear as your wick begins to go dry. An actionable event displayed on the screen which tells you to drip more juice. That's the way it's supposed to work and does work. No need for you to engage in any contrived and specious tests to see if your device is defective. From reading your posts it appears to function exactly as Brandon and John desgined the 40. On the other hand IF you get a garbled/wonky screen then by all means post. In this case that occurrence still does not mean it's a defective 40. In short, enjoy and vape.
Ignore the following tangents in this thread:
Attempt to make the 40 do something it was not designed to do
Contrived "tests" which produce specious results
Wild and unsubstantiated "connecting the dots" myths
Posts from folks who don't even own a 40
Good luck and don't hesitate to send me a PM if the "noise" in this 50 page thread confuses you. If I don't know the answer I can always ask an authoritive source.
EDIT: Ditto to my fellow early adopter @HolmanGT. AND, NO ONE on the face of the planet earth except Evolv can tell you exactly and precisely what the incidence of failure of the 40 is. Period. Ignore all posts that attempt to quantify (with numbers and or percents) this issue unless they are made by Evolv.
Excellent advice
. Exactly what I intend to do. Like I said, my device appears to be working beautifully, and I had no intentions of HUNTING for problems. Just got a little concerned after seeing all this noise about supposed issues. Absolutely in love with this new technology. The temperature protection is working great on my device, and it's a watershed moment. Amazing technology, cleverly executed.
Still finding myself having to get used to working with nickel wire, but my first coil wasn't a bad first attempt. Making a larger ID coil also is not something that bothers me. I've always preferred larger coils, because more wick between the wire means more liquid being delivered to the coil
Still loving my Protovapor XPV. This thing has been absolutely flawless.
Nickel coils are a pain, but after 30 or so tries, I think I've got it down with 28AWG. I will not/can not use 30AWG, and will no longer be trying: my reasoning: in order to prevent random things being thrown through walls.
I "work harden" the 28AWG slightly and wrap them TIGHT!!! around a 3.1mm (1/8") mandrel. I use a small pen torch and lightly and patiently heat them while gently compressing with needle nose... I then do a very quick glow when the coil is mounted in order to make sure it's firing evenly from inside out.. then wick it and click it! (Protovapor has a nice "click" button).
Works well on my Kayfuns at lower (10-13watts @ 450F) ... works amazing on my AGA-T7 RTA (around 20 watts/450F).
Nickel coils are a pain, but after 30 or so tries, I think I've got it down with 28AWG. I will not/can not use 30AWG, and will no longer be trying: my reasoning: in order to prevent random things being thrown through walls.
I "work harden" the 28AWG slightly and wrap them TIGHT!!! around a 3.1mm (1/8") mandrel. I use a small pen torch and lightly and patiently heat them while gently compressing with needle nose... I then do a very quick glow when the coil is mounted in order to make sure it's firing evenly from inside out.. then wick it and click it! (Protovapor has a nice "click" button).
Works well on my Kayfuns at lower (10-13watts @ 450F) ... works amazing on my AGA-T7 RTA (around 20 watts/450F).
IT WORKS IT WORKS HOLY CRAP IT WORKS!!!!! 28ga Ni200 with 30ga kanthal
HA TO HELL WITH TOU FLIMSY NI200 BUILDS GAME OVER
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HA TO HELL WITH TOU FLIMSY NI200 BUILDS GAME OVER
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Set at 400F,
Fired for 8 seconds, the drill bit points to where the coil was for the rayon wich
WE HAVE A WINNER
ETA: I think his conversion might be off. At 400F, vapor production was poor. BUT. At 500F:
Huge vapor production.
Fired it dry and kept going.... Wick check
Def signs of charring. Think it'll be gone at 450 or so. Back to update. I'm so excited!!!
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Fired for 8 seconds, the drill bit points to where the coil was for the rayon wich
WE HAVE A WINNER
ETA: I think his conversion might be off. At 400F, vapor production was poor. BUT. At 500F:
Huge vapor production.
Fired it dry and kept going.... Wick check
Def signs of charring. Think it'll be gone at 450 or so. Back to update. I'm so excited!!!
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450F on a completely dry wick, fired for 10 seconds
430F on a completely dry wick fired for 10 sec
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430F on a completely dry wick fired for 10 sec
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Set at 400F,
Fired for 8 seconds, the drill bit points to where the coil was for the rayon wich
WE HAVE A WINNER
ETA: I think his conversion might be off. At 400F, vapor production was poor. BUT. At 500F:
Huge vapor production.
Fired it dry and kept going.... Wick check
Def signs of charring. Think it'll be gone at 450 or so. Back to update. I'm so excited!!!
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Very very very intriguing
Good advice I guess?
I hope our "theorycrafting" and discussion about bugs and how exactly this works hasn't inadvertently spread FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) about the chip. This is just part of the fun for me. I'll mark my posts with a *THEORIZING* tag if they contain a lot of "what if" and "maybe" about vaping on top of a glacier in a low pressure zone with a "partially screen glitched but in stealth mode" device.
I'm using the XPV. Only thing I've noticed is that the only time it asks new atomizer is when I force it (fire as I screw the atomizer on). Other than that, working as intended.
Kiwi, that is freaking wonderful. First of all, I love twisted wire; secondly, this will make my life easier. What ohms does that coil shake out to?
BOOM!
Except that it's been in the 20s and 30s here lately and I've had no problem with my second good board.
IT WORKS IT WORKS HOLY CRAP IT WORKS!!!!! 28ga Ni200 with 30ga kanthal
HA TO HELL WITH TOU FLIMSY NI200 BUILDS GAME OVER
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(Forgive my cross post)
That’s good thinking, no reason it wouldn’t work. If you think of a 2 ohm Kanthal coil and a 0.2 ohm Ni coil in parallel, the effective resistance would be 0.181 ohms, within 10% of the NI by itself. More importantly, though, if your NI resistance increases by 0.1 ohm for the rise in temperature to your setpoint, the effective resistance for a parallel with 2 ohms would be 0.283 (essentially the same 0.1 ohm, so TP will work nearly spot on).
Thing is, though, the power seen by the two materials will be different, most heating will, of course, be done by the NI coils by the inverse ratio of the resistance. In my 0.2 vs 2 ohm example, the NI wiring will drop 10 times the watts as the Kanthal, decreasing as the NI resistance increases. That just means it moved the sweet spot in setting the W and temperature, and the improvement in mechanical stability for coiling, mounting, and wicking is well worth that.
I’m thinking a 32 g or smaller Kanthal wire would improve the mechanics of these coils immensely. Hats off to Alexander for thinking outside the RBA!
(no parallel resistance equations were harmed in the making of this post)
Vapor Flask needs to thank TheKiwi for a sale: that coil has officially knocked me off of the fence.
Kiwi, do you have a link to where we can find more info on this?
Kiwi, do you have a link to where we can find more info on this?
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Lol there isn't any more info on this HAHAHAHAHA. I just saw Mundy did a trial, and decided to try it out myself. The only other thing was he did a calibration graph, but that is specific to his hybrid Mundy Magic coil which is 3 strands of ribbon and nickel hybrid.
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This is awesome! I decided yesterday to hold off on the 40 for several reasons, and the tipping point was the PITA coils. (the cost of the VF was a big part of it too) Now I'm all excited again, like a kid at Christmas!
Look, I don't want to be argumentative, but unless I'm reading your post wrong, and that's entirely possible, I'm afraid I have to disagree with the overall sentiment.Some additional thoughts designed to help you. Vape and enjoy your new VS 40. Period. Tune for the flavor of your vape, your required vapor production, and the various lengths of your draws throughout the day. Using a dripper, the TP warning will appear as your wick begins to go dry. An actionable event displayed on the screen which tells you to drip more juice. That's the way it's supposed to work and does work. No need for you to engage in any contrived and specious tests to see if your device is defective. From reading your posts it appears to function exactly as Brandon and John desgined the 40. On the other hand IF you get a garbled/wonky screen then by all means post. In this case that occurrence still does not mean it's a defective 40. In short, enjoy and vape.
Ignore the following tangents in this thread:
Attempt to make the 40 do something it was not designed to do
Contrived "tests" which produce specious results
Wild and unsubstantiated "connecting the dots" myths
Posts from folks who don't even own a 40
Good luck and don't hesitate to send me a PM if the "noise" in this 50 page thread confuses you. If I don't know the answer I can always ask an authoritive source.
EDIT: Ditto to my fellow early adopter @HolmanGT. AND, NO ONE on the face of the planet earth except Evolv can tell you exactly and precisely what the incidence of failure of the 40 is. Period. Ignore all posts that attempt to quantify (with numbers and or percents) this issue unless they are made by Evolv.
I get it. You got a perfectly working good dna40, or several of them. Congrats, please accept my official pat on the back.
But not everyone did, do we have exact numbers? Of course not. But let's be honest about it. Evolv had a manufacturing defect. And that defect is causing a very real and very serious problem for those who are unfortunate enough to receive boards with it. How many people? Who knows, but just the number of people in this post with not just one but in some cases multiple bad dna40s combined with all the info you can find on reddit and other vape boards seems to indicate that it's a pretty high figure. I was one of those numbers.
You have to understand that it may seem entirely different for you perched up there on your post with your working dna40s, but for someone like me, who ordered it, took the time to install it, then had nothing but trouble with it, it's a little hard to be happy about that. Not only was my time wasted, but I now have paid $10 extra for something (because evolv doesn't pay for you to rma something back to them) and have now waited over 2 weeks since sending it back to them with no replacement nor word from them. And in the mean time they've been completely silent about the issue. To get a functioning dna40 and not have to wait 2+ weeks to get it, I had to purchase a second board. My emails to evolv asking for an update on the status of my rma have went unanswered. My original email to them asking about an advanced replacement option went unanswered. As bad as cloupor is, when they had mods burning up wiring because they had people trying to run builds drawing 15 or 20A on a device clearly specd for 10A and they didn't include software limiting, they were paypal'ing complete refunds to people immediately upon receipt on a simple email with their receipt attached. They screwed up and they did the best they could to fix it. That's a Chinese company with a marginal reputation at best. This is evolv. Someone I would expect to have a slightly higher caliber of dealing with something.
I don't think it's too much to ask that a product I buy works as described. And when I'm constantly getting dry burnt hits, more than I ever did with any other device out of one that supposedly eliminates that, I don't think it's out of line to expect me to be a little upset about it.
The intent of these posts isn't to create fear mongering and get people not to purchase the product. My second board works, perfectly, and I'm thankful for that, I could have been someone like thekiwi who got 4 out of 5 bad. I would have given up long before that, and so would the average person.
And if someone is struggling with getting harsh dry hits our other anomalies, how can you fault them for trying to isolate what is causing the problem and see if others with good or bad boards can reproduce it? Especially when the behavior they are describing exactly described the symptoms produced by a bad board sans the screen glitch?
I'm not sitting here calling you a fanboy, but you seem to automatically prescribe user error to any issues anyone has despite the fact that on several occasions the screen glitch has showed itself as well. Do you know how frustrating that must be for someone who is being meticulous about the way they are building to ensure everything is perfect, getting a behavior that clearly is not normal, then being told that it's their fault? Can user error be the cause in some cases? Sure, but let's try to help them determine that fact, ask questions and try to determine the real cause rather than just sitting back with multiple working dna40s pointing the finger and telling them it's all their fault because obviously if yours works there isn't a problem with any of them.
It reminds me of the old ring of death issue with the xbox. People with working units were so quick to jump on the Microsoft bandwagon and defend them to the death denying that there could be so many bad units when theirs worked fine.
You're right, nobody can tell us how many good versus bad units have been released, but that works both ways. For all we know, it's not is with the bad luck, but you with the good luck. It's no more right for you to speculate that there are very few bad units out there than it would be for us to speculate that there are very working units out there.
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