Official DNA 40 introduction

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dr g

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Yes everybody give you a round of applause... You're smart and special...

Now back on topic ... So you could not use your atty on any device other than a dna 40 device without re doing the coil .... That's kind of a bummer as I switch attys and mods all the time...


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If you're building a regulated coil the same way as a mech coil, you're doing it wrong. But anyway, the only thing you will want to switch your atty to is another DNA temperature device.
 

TheKiwi

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So. I'm at temco's site. The 28ga Ni200 wires have a resistance of 0.3778 ohms per ft......

You'll need to use at least a quarter of a foot (approximately) of 28ga in your build to even get there.... Jesus. Is that even possible o_O

Seems like 30ga is the most viable option, and we should see larger diameter builds just to keep the length of the coil in check. Thoughts?
 

Rossum

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Don't worry, some things are not that intuitive. Twenty years ago, I used to design (among other things) instrumentation transformers; those often had hundreds or even thousands of wraps of copper wire in layers. At first it was surprising how many feet of wire ended up in those things. But just like our coils, you had to know in order to be able to predict the resistive losses. On top of the core losses. And (mostly) nickel cores had the lowest losses. :D
 

want to quit

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I saw that basil mentioned something about hot spots being hard to get rid of and it affecting the temp option of the chip? Can I even still build my nickel microcoils the same way by heating it up in regular mode and than switching to temp mode?

Can't pull the trigger on a 40 yet until I fully understand what the hack is going on lol.
 

Bassnorma

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I apologize. I think to some degree, it's frustration at groking it completely but not actually having a device to play with yet. :(

I get that....and thanks....it's just we all have something to learn or at least I do....I hope I can ask without feeling embarrassed for asking. When it comes to build time, that is....

Thinking that resistance doesn't really matter on DNA40 and nickel but what if I want positive ohms? Does anyone know how to build a 1.5 nickel coil?

Not something I need to know today....but it would be nice to understand better.

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
 
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Heespharm

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I get that....and thanks....it's just we all have something to learn or at least I do....I hope I can ask without feeling embarrassed for asking. When it comes to build time, that is....

Thinking that resistance doesn't really matter on DNA40 and nickel but what if I want positive ohms? Does anyone know how to build a 1.5 nickel coil?

Not something I need to know today....but it would be nice to understand better.

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)

Looking at the numbers I don't think that's realistically practical
 

Rossum

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Thinking that resistance doesn't really matter on DNA40 and nickel but what if I want positive ohms? Does anyone know how to build a 1.5 nickel coil?
You'd need to use some mighty thin wire and/or make a darn big coil, which may not be practical. That's what I meant when I told people that they were doing it wrong by targeting such high resistances.

The question is, why would you want to build a 1.5 ohm nickel coil? Remember, that 1.5 ohm coil is only 1.5 ohms at room temperature. When it warms up to vaping temps, it's gonna be at 3+ ohms, maybe higher. If you want a coil that will still be "safe" if you accidentally put it on a mech, target absolute lowest resistance that would be safe on your mech, say 0.3 or something like that, knowing that its resistance won't stay that low for more than a fraction of a second when you fire it.
 

Bassnorma

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You'd need to use some mighty thin wire and/or make a darn big coil, which may not be practical. That's what I meant when I told people that they were doing it wrong by targeting such high resistances.

The question is, why would you want to build a 1.5 ohm nickel coil? Remember, that 1.5 ohm coil is only 1.5 ohms at room temperature. When it warms up to vaping temps, it's gonna be at 3+ ohms, maybe higher. If you want a coil that will still be "safe" if you accidentally put it on a mech, target absolute lowest resistance that would be safe on your mech, say 0.3 or something like that, knowing that its resistance won't stay that low for more than a fraction of a second when you fire it.

Ok...that makes sense now...Is the wire we are using in the coil toy? I see a lot of what looks like nickel....just can't figure out which is which.
http://coiltoy.ermeso.com/

Is increased resistance while hot a characteristic of just nickel wire or is that summarily true?
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
 
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Bassnorma

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Sorry Norma, I don't understand what you're asking.

I use that link above to figure out how many wraps of kanthal...then use a reader for ohms...sorry edited while you were responding.....you can drop down to select the type of wire....is the type of wire we need expressed in the coil toy tool?

Not knowing the physics behind this it helps me understand if I plug in the numbers.

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
 
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