Official DNA 40 introduction

[illitirit]

Question to dna40 owners :


Im not a big fan of the bright screen on my rdna40 especially at night so I use stealth mode alot.

I am curious whether or not "weak battery" will still be displayed in stealth mode. I would think its extremely dangerous if I am vaping and vaping never knowing when the weak battery display would come up. Does anyone know?

I have also noticed that even though the dna40 shows weak battery, it seems like it still fires. Is there a point where the dna40 just doesnt let you vape anymore? Otherwise isnt it kind of acting like a mech?

 

[tchavei]

She's an English teacher

Are you sure you're not spelling bad on purpose?

I mean... "where did you MEAT her"?

ROTFL, that's hilarious



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[tchavei]

Back to the video... I'm at 45 min.

After explaining metal conductivity worsening with heat, he says there are semiconductors that need to be excited with heat or other energy to make the cores actually expand and let the electrons jump to the highway. He gave the example of solar panels where silica is used. As heat excites the electrons, they start jumping so bottom line, some materials increase conductivity with heat. He also mentioned that sometimes other materials were introduced between the highway and the cores to act as a jumping platform to help the electrons to get flowing.
He then explained that isolators have the cores so far away of the entangled Highway that no electron would be able to jump to the highway regardless of heat.
Finally, at 30 minutes he started to talk about vapor related things.... Well sort of.

He said he watched farsalino's Video about measuring the temperature with a probe inside a wick but he noticed there was a flaw in the methodology used. Unfortunately, he digressed about it and then forgot to say what it was.

Anyway, he explains that most thermometers use conductivity based on heat to measure the temperature and that for a given metal, known it's resistance at a certain temperature one could calculate the temperature backwards ie based on measured actual resistance.

After that he went into thermodynamics. As the coil heats up, the heat wants to go to the coldest place first (wick and liquid) and that liquid doesn't transition linearly from one state of the other. There are horizontal lines at each transition state.

He gave the example of water. As temperature rises towards 0C, there is a point at, 0C where there will be water in liquid state and at the same time in solid state. Same goes with vapor because at 100C there will be liquid water and vapor, both at 100C temperature.

He also mentioned that different materials absorb and heat up at different levels. 4128 joules are necessary to heat up 1L of water by one degree Celsius. Half of that is needed to do the same with alcohol. He made the comment that water isn't actually a liquid but trapped gas or something like that.

He also said that a liquid has first to absorb a level of heat (make its atoms swirl and dance around) before actually heating the liquid itself.

No mention of dna 40 yet...

Back to the video.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[tchavei]

Question to dna40 owners :


Im not a big fan of the bright screen on my rdna40 especially at night so I use stealth mode alot.

I use mine as a flashlight when I hit the fridge in the middle of the night

I am curious whether or not "weak battery" will still be displayed in stealth mode. I would think its extremely dangerous if I am vaping and vaping never knowing when the weak battery display would come up. Does anyone know?

Never tried it. Maybe someone can help more. Sorry

I have also noticed that even though the dna40 shows weak battery, it seems like it still fires. Is there a point where the dna40 just doesnt let you vape anymore? Otherwise isnt it kind of acting like a mech?

According to a lady in the dna 40 FB group, she kept firing her mod for over two hours after the weak message appeared and managed to drain the battery down to 1.5V

Others have reported numbers as 3.1, 2.8 etc. It looks like (and this is just my opinion) that the board never actually cuts out until it hasn't enough power to keep on and probably starts rebooting and eventually shutting down (one user reported rebooting while trying to use the USB port as pass-through without any battery installed which is a bad idea btw because the USB doesn't have enough power to do that)

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[retird]

Question to dna40 owners :


Im not a big fan of the bright screen on my rdna40 especially at night so I use stealth mode alot.

I am curious whether or not "weak battery" will still be displayed in stealth mode. I would think its extremely dangerous if I am vaping and vaping never knowing when the weak battery display would come up. Does anyone know?

I have also noticed that even though the dna40 shows weak battery, it seems like it still fires. Is there a point where the dna40 just doesnt let you vape anymore? Otherwise isnt it kind of acting like a mech?

This may help you out...... good reference for DNA40d users...... http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf

From this pdf (as an example):
Stealth mode:
While locked, holding the fire and down buttons simultaneously for five seconds will
switch to stealth mode. In this mode the display is off. It will still show error and lock messages. To
switch back to normal display mode, hold down the fire and down buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds.
This setting is stored to internal flash memory, and remains if power is removed.

 

[retird]

K guys I just got my kangertech nickle atomizers and I'm vaping on some space jam 3mg and it keeps going into protect mode. I been going up and down from 380-420 and it still hits temp protection. Any ideas? this temp sensoring is new to me.

Good reference for DNA40d users..... http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf

Hitting Temp Protection ... it is telling you that you reached the temp setting that you desired....folks set their settings for what they like.... more than one way to do it... my preference is to find the temperature I like and then set the temperature just a bit higher than what I like... also note the wattage setting at the temp you like and set the wattage just a bit above the wattage you need.... this helps to cut down on the "temp protect" message showing but gives you what you like... at least that is the way I like to do it....others may set the wattage much higher than needed and still others don't mind seeing the "temp protect message".... hope this helps....

 

[Woofer]

K guys I just got my kangertech nickle atomizers and I'm vaping on some space jam 3mg and it keeps going into protect mode. I been going up and down from 380-420 and it still hits temp protection. Any ideas? this temp sensoring is new to me.

Well that's is what you bought it for no?

There is nothing specifically wrong with hitting TL, as it stands you are putting more energy in then you are taking out.
More air, more juice or less watts will help with that.

 

[Woofer]

Oops!!!

Sorry about that wasn't thinking (as usual). Now your going to tell me your wife speaks English also. Where did you meat her at a Mensa meeting that you are both members of?.

What language is this Tony???

Sorry HolmanGT, couldn't help myself..

 

[Cody Brock]

Well that's is what you bought it for no?

There is nothing specifically wrong with hitting TL, as it stands you are putting more energy in then you are taking out.
More air, more juice or less watts will help with that.

I'm trying to vape at 40w and since im new to this temp sensor I just wanna make sure that i can get the temp set so i actually can vape at 40w without going into protection mode. Im a noob sorry xD

 

[Woofer]

I'm trying to vape at 40w and since im new to this temp sensor I just wanna make sure that i can get the temp set so i actually can vape at 40w without going into protection mode. Im a noob sorry xD

More air, more juice or less watts will help with that.

I think you are going about this kinda backwards. Why do you want to vape at 40 watts specifically?
Walk for a bit before you run. Have you any prior vaping experience and gear, it's helpful to know this.

 

[Cody Brock]

I'm some what new to vaping.. I had been using a 30w DNA for a few months then I had upgraded to the RDNA and got the Kangertech Sub Tank Mini with the new nickle coils. I'm still learning, but I'm basically just researching myself. and i dont know why but i just want to vape at 40 lol.

 

[tchavei]

Final part of the translation.

First I want to say that I was a little disappointed because he actually took a few stabs at the dna 40 and there are a few aspects I don't agree about but the guy did make some valid points to at least make me think about it.

So at 45 min he started to explain what actually happens when you hit the fire button on a mod. The coil heats up, heat travels inside the wick and liquid, wick and liquid absorbs the heat, temperature of the liquid rises to a point it starts to convert to vapor beginning on the outer layers. As liquid is vaporized, the wick starts to dry out, the liquid travels from inside the wick to the outside and the negative pressure pulls more liquid from the edges of the wick towards the center.

During a draw, the wick is drier in the center of the coil than on the outer edges which means that the coil gets less cooled at the middle and so the temperature rises there more than at the edges.

At this point he said that since there might be dramatic temperature differences along the length of the coil, any temperature reading would be well off because the actual shape of the coil (length, micro or macro, spaced or contact) is so variable you can't estimate the temperature at the center portion based on an average reading (in his words it becomes useless).

He than said that he has read on many forums that people refer to the dna 40 as a temperature regulating device which, in his opinion is wrong. He said that Evolv refers to the board as temperature controlling (read as limiting) rather than regulating. He said the dna 40 is a Watt regulated device with a temperature limiter feature. It's easier (and actually possible) to limit the coil's temperature by measuring the temperature of the center / middle part of the coil and estimating the deviance of what the actual measured average resistance is and then feed the results of the experiment into the board's algorithm. He thinks that Evolv did just that so yes, it's limiting the temperature but with a considerable margin of error.

He said that the generally accepted limit for vg to start decompose into nasty stuff is about 394F so many people regulate the limit towards 190C (380F?)
The device won't regulate automatically the watts to keep at the set temperature ie if you set the watts to 10W and the coil never reaches the set temperature, the dna won't raise the watts to hit it (except during initial ramp up) so it's only a temp limiter.

In conclusion, he said there are no real benefits from that limiting. Evolv might have come up with something new and technically interesting but it hardly was a game changer yet because of the inherent inaccuracy.

--

Personally, I think there is some sense in what he says about different temperature zones /areas along the coil but damm I don't find it useless. Avoiding dry hits is a major factor for me but he dismissed that because, in his words, an experienced vapor will barely experience dry hits anyway.

Don't know take it as you want.


It's half past 4 am here. I'm going to bed.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[NOVA jon]

Thanks for the translation Tony, very interesting thoughts to take into consideration. Anywho, I like what it does and am happier for it!!

 

[Croak]

I'm some what new to vaping.. I had been using a 30w DNA for a few months then I had upgraded to the RDNA and got the Kangertech Sub Tank Mini with the new nickle coils. I'm still learning, but I'm basically just researching myself. and i dont know why but i just want to vape at 40 lol.

Just so you know, the basic design of those Kanger heads is unchanged between the nickel and the regular units.

So, if one presumes that Kanger built those heads to run at a particular range of airflow and power, as the laser etched power ranges, standardized size of the airflow holes in the positive post and amount and type of wicking material would suggest, trying to run them at 40w might be considered excessive, nickel or Kanthal.

TC will help mitigate this excess by limiting your ability to screw the pooch, but there is still pooch screwing intent going on there, and TC can't save you from intent, but it can make life easier on the pooch.

 

[maleasdf]

Thank you very much Tony for your patience and making notes of the video. Did get some thoughts from drawing board but your notes helped to exactly understand the material.

Also on other hand this is what Evolve and/or beta testers or experts should be exactly weighing in to suggest users what to do and what not to.

Thanks a bunch again.

 

[Cody Brock]

Just so you know, the basic design of those Kanger heads is unchanged between the nickel and the regular units.

So, if one presumes that Kanger built those heads to run at a particular range of airflow and power, as the laser etched power ranges, standardized size of the airflow holes in the positive post and amount and type of wicking material would suggest, trying to run them at 40w might be considered excessive, nickel or Kanthal.

TC will help mitigate this excess by limiting your ability to screw the pooch, but there is still pooch screwing intent going on there, and TC can't save you from intent, but it can make life easier on the pooch.

Right now I'm trying to vape @ 26w with the TC set at 420f and TC is still kicking on.. Is it not ideal to bump up into 500?

Sorry, I just don't have any one around my town that could possibly help me

 

[Croak]

Keep lowering the wattage, or take deeper drags until it's hard to reach the TC limit would be my suggestion. Try setting at the "standard" 450f as well. But going up to 500f isn't good for your cotton wick, nor is it likely to be good for your flavor.

 

[Cody Brock]

So basically to vape at a higher W I would have to take deep hits? Lol doesn't seem right to me :/

 

[KTMRider]

So basically to vape at a higher W I would have to take deep hits? Lol doesn't seem right to me :/

Why do you want to vape at higher wattage? What are you trying to accomplish?

 

[Cody Brock]

I'm not trying to accomplish anything? What is wrong witH vaping at 30w+? I like clouds?