Official DNA 40 introduction

[HolmanGT]

Perfectly normal for certain builds, particularly small wire builds with long legs.



yeah the sx ... doesn't measure temperature very well

"G",

As strange as this may sound I am inclined to agree with you. I used a wick saturated in water and the DNA40 read 209 F (my altitude is 4000 feet). The same topper on the SX reads about 100F low. i.e. water/wick 112 with lots of bobbling around.

Not the most scientific test I used tap water and have no idea what the barometric pressure was - but with a 100 degrees F difference water impurities and inches of mercury probably had very little influence on the results.

 

[dr g]

I don't have a temperature measurement tool and to be honest I don't care for what the screen tells me or whether the readings on dna40 or sx are accurate. My only question is I see people vaping at 450 460, and I'm vaping at 530 with no dry hits which is a temperature that is supposedly unsafe?

No and I suggest you stop listening to anyone that tells you it is unsafe. The temperature on the screen of the mod is only the board's interpretation of its reading of the coil's resistance.

"G",

As strange as this may sound I am inclined to agree with you. I used a wick saturated in water and the DNA40 read 209 F (my altitude is 4000 feet). The same topper on the SX reads about 100F low. i.e. water/wick 112 with lots of bobbling around.

Not the most scientific test I used tap water and have no idea what the barometric pressure was - but with a 100 degrees F difference water impurities and inches of mercury probably had very little influence on the results.

Why is it strange to agree with someone who is correct?

 

[BNEAT]

HAHAHA, man I get a kick out of this place sometimes.

 

[HolmanGT]

Yeah thanks that does it I guess. But with my setup I'm not able to reach 20 watts at 450. I guess I have to change my setup.

Actually I am on a new setup on the DNA40 also. I was using 26 Ga 8 wraps and didn't have the higher temp problem @ 22.5 watts.

On difference on the previous build was I used crimp on sterling silver eye loops. The effect of using them is two fold it is easy as heck to put the post screw thru the eyelet and tighten and the second and the one that I am thinking reduced the high temp is the crimp portion of the eylet extends from the Atty post right up to the coil and actually touches the wicking. My conclusion to date is it totally eliminates what would be about 0.2" of wire legs that connect to the posts. With the Sterling Silver there is absolutely no change for hot legs to exist and mess up the temperature reading.

That's my theory and I am sticking with it until "Retird" or "G-man" prove me wrong.

 

[HolmanGT]

No and I suggest you stop listening to anyone that tells you it is unsafe. The temperature on the screen of the mod is only the board's interpretation of its reading of the coil's resistance.



Why is it strange to agree with someone who is correct?

I'll say one thing "G-man" humility is not your strong point.

 

[HolmanGT]

HAHAHA, man I get a kick out of this place sometimes.

BNEAT - easy for you to say I am the one taking it in the shorts.

 

[Aal_]

Dr g. The legs are small and non existent

 

[HolmanGT]

Dr g. The legs are small and non existent

Yeah but - are some of those coils touching? I have always had better luck eliminating the run to high temp by taking a razor blade and separating the coils by at least the width of a single edge razor blade like you use in a paint scraper. ANY coil that I have built as tight as you have in the picture turned out to be a real PITA with high temperatures.

 

[Aal_]

Yeah but - are some of those coils touching? I have always had better luck eliminating the run to high temp by taking a razor blade and separating the coils by at least the width of a single edge razor blade like you use in a paint scraper. ANY coil that I have built as tight as you have in the picture turned out to be a real PITA with high temperatures.

As far as I know they are not touching. I'm not sure if some touched after vaping. They are pretty close though. The funny thing is that I've been vaping for 3 days and the resistance always stays at 0.18 so there is no funny business.

 

[retird]

Aal.... dry cotton is said to burn at about 450F..... e-liquid vaporizes at a certain temperature (depending on PG/Vg ratio etc.)...you are not vaping dry cotton.... I vape different temperatures depending on many factors and one of the factors is not dry cotton as my atty tanks are always wet...

 

[HolmanGT]

As far as I know they are not touching. I'm not sure if some touched after vaping. They are pretty close though. The funny thing is that I've been vaping for 3 days and the resistance always stays at 0.18 so there is no funny business.

Well Asl_ you can't expect too much for two cents. If they are not touching and you have plenty of air flow I have no idea why your temp should be going so high. I will say this when I switch to 26 Ga all my runaway high temp problems disappeared. Ohm range with 26 Ga is 0.12 ohms. I had been using 28 Ga. When I used 30 Ga the runaway temperature was just crazy out of hand.

 

[Aal_]

Aal.... dry cotton is said to burn at about 450F..... e-liquid vaporizes at a certain temperature (depending on PG/Vg ratio etc.)...you are not vaping dry cotton.... I vape different temperatures depending on many factors and one of the factors is not dry cotton as my atty tanks are always wet...

I'm using rayon by the way and not cotton. So you're saying I should not be worried, right?
Honestly I don't care for a little charred rayon, it's not like I didn't char it in my kanthal builds during the last 4 years. But what I do worry about are dry hits and glowing wires.

 

[dr g]

Dr g. The legs are small and non existent

No matter really, you could just like the way it runs at that temperature. Smaller coils tend to run hotter.

Just remember normal nichrome or kanthal coils run unlimited, no temperature setting at all. Yet dr farsalinos just finished a study where he found few aldehydes unless you got dry hits.

 

[HolmanGT]

I'm using rayon by the way and not cotton. So you're saying I should not be worried, right?
Honestly I don't care for a little charred rayon, it's not like I didn't char it in my kanthal builds during the last 4 years. But what I do worry about are dry hits and glowing wires.

Just a by the way statement I just put the 26 Ga. Lemo 2 on my Vapor Flask DNA40 and it reads the same temperatures as the SX. My conclusion is the DNA40 reads higher for the same amount of applied power when using 32. 30 and to some degree 28 Ga.

 

[HolmanGT]

Guys I have a nickel 30 gauge 12 wraps 0.18 ohms coil with rayon. I'm running at 530F and no dry hits and no signs of hot spots. Is it normal? It refined for 24 hours and stayed at 0.18.

I question I didn't ask ya Aal_ are you using high or max VG juice. If so that stuff takes some pretty high temps to perform like say a 50/50 mix.

 

[Aal_]

I question I didn't ask ya Aal_ are you using high or max VG juice. If so that stuff takes some pretty high temps to perform like say a 50/50 mix.

97.5% VG

 

[KTMRider]

You also have to realize that the temp is only correct with all variables perfect. Setting a device at 450°F might go to 500°F because of a hot leg or bad connection. It could also not reach 400°F for the same reasons. Setting your mod to 530°F puts you that much closer to the dangerous temp range. I set all my DNA40's to 440°F because 420°F wasn't very satisfying but I do see variances (flavor and vapor output) on different builds.

 

[HolmanGT]

Then I would assume your juice may be the reason for the high temperatures.

Ref.
Propylene glycol boiling point
371°F (188°C)
Glycerol boiling point
554°F (290°C)

But as others have said as long as you are not getting dry hits you are probably OK from a "Vaping Safety" viewpoint.

But if the temperature gets much hotter you are starting to push the safety limits of Ni200.

If you just take it from the view point of your past Kanthal builds you are probably Vaping at lower temperatures with your Ni200 just that now you know what that temperature is - "Catch 22"

 

[HolmanGT]

You also have to realize that the temp is only correct with all variables perfect. Setting a device at 450°F might go to 500°F because of a hot leg or bad connection. It could also not reach 400°F for the same reasons. Setting your mod to 530°F puts you that much closer to the dangerous temp range. I set all my DNA40's to 440°F because 420°F wasn't very satisfying but I do see variances (flavor and vapor output) on different builds.

KTM,

I won't even try to reply to all your variables but to say that I agree with everything you have said.

I also try to make intelligent decisions about what I set the TP to. And that varies with different TP mods, juices and wicks. Also the TP I pick if not producing vapor gets upped and if producing slightly off taste the TP gets reduced.

Not a perfect solution to safety but far better than the Kanthal days when you didn't really have much information available to make an informed decision on.

 

[BNEAT]

Maybe Aal_ will get luck and his screen will go out. No worries if you can't read it.