That nickel wrapping on the veritas sure does look like a challenge. What ohm/wraps did you get?
Good info, might purchase one this weekend!
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That nickel wrapping on the veritas sure does look like a challenge. What ohm/wraps did you get?
Good info, might purchase one this weekend!
With Kanthal I only do 9-11 wraps 28g for 1.3-1.5ohm
Nickel 12ish wraps 3mm ID 28g comes out to around 0.15 or I use 30g with 13wraps for around .18-.20ohm.
Nickel 12ish wraps 3mm ID 28g comes out to around 0.15 or I use 30g with 13wraps for around .18-.20ohm.
Both are used extensively for cleaning super high voltage 150+ KV connections because they do not leave residue.
I know it doesn't leave a residue but it isn't a degreaser, It lifts the grease off the surface and if it's not wiped off before it evaporates, the suspended oils will remain.
Ahem, did somebody say dual vertical coil?!?!
3mm ID 16 wrap 28 gauge Ni200 0.12ohms.
Just have to remove the ground post and shorten the screw a tad.
View attachment 385141
Notice the airflow through the center of the coil, hits the entire surface area.
View attachment 385142
Wick it good!
View attachment 385145
Trim, juice, trim some more, don't fill those juice channels:
View attachment 385159
Big Fogger can accommodate large vertical coils.
View attachment 385162
3mm ID 16 wrap 28 gauge Ni200 0.12ohms.
Just have to remove the ground post and shorten the screw a tad.
View attachment 385141
Notice the airflow through the center of the coil, hits the entire surface area.
View attachment 385142
Wick it good!
View attachment 385145
Trim, juice, trim some more, don't fill those juice channels:
View attachment 385159
Big Fogger can accommodate large vertical coils.
View attachment 385162
From Wikipedia "Solvent degreasing is a process used to prepare a part for further operations such as electroplating or painting. Typically it uses petroleum, chlorine, or alcohol based solvents to dissolve the machining fluids and other contaminants that might be on the part."
Regardless I'm more comfortable with some vaper towel and 99% ISO or acetone getting the nickel clean (residue free) then Simple Green, Dawn etc. I suppose one could throw it in a dish washer, each to their own I suppose. If I was cleaning an engine block or something like that I'd consider other solvents. No more from me on this topic, I promise!
Regardless I'm more comfortable with some vaper towel and 99% ISO or acetone getting the nickel clean (residue free) then Simple Green, Dawn etc. I suppose one could throw it in a dish washer, each to their own I suppose. If I was cleaning an engine block or something like that I'd consider other solvents. No more from me on this topic, I promise!
I wiped these wires with Isopropyl and a gauze pad this time until they literally squeaked...hope I don't get a raw throat like last time...=( If I do, I guess I am going to become a Pro Nickel builder.
Not really. Not sweet at all. Rather crappy. After vaping it a while it has lowered to .10 which is fine and will take all 40W without stumbling which is fine, but cant get to temp which is bad. I have to fire it without inhaling for a few seconds to raise temp into the 300s then inhale and at that point it puts out way more vapor than I can handle. If I start inhaling at fire it still sinks all 40W but temp only stays in the 200s with all the air flow. And not nearly as much vapor as my horizontal big build which does great at 24W.
I didn't think it was possible but I finally did it. I made a Ni200 and rayon build that draws all 40W, doesn't gurgle, doesn't leak, and can't get to temp when puffing. The atty gets very warm to the touch too. This is not good at all. Too much coil and too much juicy rayon for 40W. LOL
Holy cow I'll have to try it with 30 gauge and 2mm coils to lower the surface area.
It's the best platform for large vertical coils I have seen and is far less prone to leaks than dual horizontal coils as the wicked coil encircles the air holes. You can pack more rayon in around the coils and positive post to act as a reservoir but wasn't necessary on this build LOL. Screw chimney into the top first when reassembling. Not shown I lift the coils off the deck about the thickness of a business card.
The first orders will ship the 30th... Also if ppl will post when they ship and their order number may be good for the community
Oh I thought they were shipping the 28th.hopefully no more delays
They had delays... Check their facebook and the vs thread
Well, please elaborate! What temps are good for what kind of juice? VG/PG mix and flavor?
Um vaping at 430 deg 27.4 watts with 0.7 twisted and a dual coil 0.8.. With 70/30 vg/pg juice.. Awesome flavor for both the orchid and big dripper
I had mine set at 300 TP to 350 TP at 10 watts output also played with the out put 8 watts to 15 watts and it just didn't taste right - bad actually.
Then I read your post and said I wish I had what ever you are drinking. Sat here for a few minutes and said what the He!! I set the TP back to 450 F and the output to 10 watts and it taste great.
I was starting to have a LOT of buyers remorse because it just didn't taste good and if you alter the settings output watts from what I used on my normal MOD and moved away from the factory default of 450 TP which I did almost from the get go it just does weird things.
But now a 10 watts out TP at 450 I am a happy camper.
Thanks for your post!!!
Glad I could help... Yeah me too huge " what's the big deal?" I didn't want to go above 400 but I seldom hit the temp control at 430with my orchid.. As soon as I did the flavors opened up!
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So, people with the new vaporshark dna 40s are going to have to look at their temperature fluctuate in the mirror?
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